NCP90 Rear Drum to Disc swap

[remcafee]

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by remcafee

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Could put a layer of stick on rubber there or something i guess?

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by enviri

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go

I've never had this issue, and I've had this setup for over a year now. I even had my whole family ride this weekend, wife in the front passenger seat and the two kids in the back. I'm around 180lbs, my wife's around 90lbs, my 10 year old son who sat behind me is about 70lbs, and my 16 year old is about 150lbs. We went over some dips and bumps, I didn't hear or feel any slapping of the rear axle beam on the chassis. I'm on Tein S. Tech lowering springs, and still stock shocks on the back, Bilstein B8s struts up front.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

I've never had this issue, and I've had this setup for over a year now. I even had my whole family ride this weekend, wife in the front passenger seat and the two kids in the back. I'm around 180lbs, my wife's around 90lbs, my 10 year old son who sat behind me is about 70lbs, and my 16 year old is about 150lbs. We went over some dips and bumps, I didn't hear or feel any slapping of the rear axle beam on the chassis. I'm on Tein S. Tech lowering springs, and still stock shocks on the back, Bilstein B8s struts up front.

I had the entire rear subframe, 2 tonne jack, front old hubs and, springs shocks and jack stands and tool box in the back after i was done and just check no marks from slappage, so Idk it had like twice the weight in the rear and didnt touch. If it does i will buy the stick on rubber pads.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by remcafee

it is common that when switching the rear acle mount position, if you have a street setup with somewhat soft springs, you will hit the gas tabk going over bumps, the trd springs are fairly soft and just keep an eye on wear on your gas tank over time, only way to avoid is go sloe over bumps or get stiffer springs

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.


Yes those are contact marks above the brake hose on the chassis rail.

Originally Posted by enviri

just look out for rear beam slapping your chassis over time once its all settled now that you swapped bolt positions, and you are good to go

I will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

Just thinking about this the upper hole is not on there for motorsport, toyota would never do that this is for the 1.3 litre 4wd vitz, it has a rear diff and drive shaft that needs to clear the rear subframe and has a different rear subframe again to the RS/base along with a different fuel tank. The 4wd are always automatic 1.3 litre 4 speed auto and kinda rare.

No more recommending this to people everyone.

Edit: the 4wd vitz are 2nz-fe not the 1sz-fe.

[sh0rtlife]

actualy the 4wds are not rare..they just never left japan......every time ive looked thru at them for importing theres atleast a couple up for sale..and CHEEP...if someone told me i could swap the 1.5 onto the 4wd trans with 100% certanty id have pulled the trigger on one

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

actualy the 4wds are not rare..they just never left japan......every time ive looked thru at them for importing theres atleast a couple up for sale..and CHEEP...if someone told me i could swap the 1.5 onto the 4wd trans with 100% certanty id have pulled the trigger on one

I have not seen a 4wd older one for sale or wrecking for parts here yet so idk rare in my experience so far. I keep looking because I want to see if you can get a manual corolla carib 4wd box to work with it which would make for a really fun car to drive.

Also I will take more pics when I change the suspension back to lower mount holes to show the contact points and why not to change the suspension mounting points.

[sh0rtlife]

youve got my attention with that..which rolla box? and assume said rolla box would mean 1.5 or 1.8 swap too?

the exporters ALWAYS have a few of em listed tho there isnt always good pic's...ive come across a few of the listings tho that had pics galore , and can state with some certanty that the driveshaft runs right down the center of the car and connects to what looks like an old toyota pickup axle...but like i said, the fact that they all have a teeny tiny engine has kept me from pulling the trigger as no one seems to know anything about the trans or swapability
but lets face it the chassis will take whatever we want, its a question of "how" do you keep the 4wd...so what trans were you thinking?...i mean hell at that point you wouldnt need a factory 4wd unit, you would need a rear axle, driveshaft and trans and rear axle mounting

[enviri]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I will be going back to the normal lower suspension mount holes. This is not a safe mod at all. a larger than normal bump in the road will crush the brake hose or severe it.

This is 100% a MOTORSPORT ONLY modification that requires relocation of your brake lines.

No more recommending this to people everyone.

a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by enviri

a man of reason. good stuff. I didnt like swapping mount holes either. I already fear the rust monster, and I dont want another thing to fear. 11+ years and still going strong since rear disc swap!

haha right me too even with my body in such good shape, I still am anti rusting anything that looks remotely like it might start to rust

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before.

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

I haven't been here for a bit. Hmmm... Thanks for pointing it out... I'm currently on work travel, I'll check mine out when I get home.

Yes...there have been some developments Bit of hard driving produced some unwanted results lol

Also Im slowly ticking off the things needed for some light autoX racing in the future and on the list was the brake pads and rotors.

The brake upgrade came with spme unknown chinese brand "CAC" brake pads and had some rust spots and scratches on the braking surface even after some heavy footed stops and lively driving through the windys for 6 hours and I don't pad slap and so the rotors are at the brake shop getting machined and I have ordered some Bosch pads.

I still get a staff discount at one of the part stores and so thats what pushed me towards the Bosch Blue pads at $117 front and rear versus Toyota which was $267 front and rear.

What type of brake pads do you guys run? and what have you used for competition racing?

[sh0rtlife]

i just killed off the "new" sed of pads from my rotor swap, they didnt last long and i didnt expect them to, swapped out for full ceramic..so far so good

i would personaly run "hawk" but the price hurts

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

i just killed off the "new" sed of pads from my rotor swap, they didnt last long and i didnt expect them to, swapped out for full ceramic..so far so good

i would personaly run "hawk" but the price hurts

I have personally not seen Hawk for sale over here, We have EBC race brakes here in Auckland and maybe in the future I will go this route if it seems needed.

Got the job done today anyway guys after my pads and rotors arrived this morning, They barely skimmed 0.5mm from my rotors and they are mint again, New Bosch semi metalic pads feeling great already.





Also check out how terrible these "CAC" brand brake pads were. Front left was normal looking while the right is half glazed as seen below.


And the back left and right are far worse.


...and now I need to repaint the wheels as they keep chipping.

[sh0rtlife]

hawk being a race company isnt one of those things youll see on a shelf..well..anywhere

ive run a few grades of their pads in my alfas and the pads were worth every over priced penny, but i havnt been able to justify it for the yaris...yet

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

hawk being a race company isnt one of those things youll see on a shelf..well..anywhere

ive run a few grades of their pads in my alfas and the pads were worth every over priced penny, but i havnt been able to justify it for the yaris...yet

Fair enough, I always used bendix in the past but they were ceramic and I read they are worse for light track use than semi metalics.

Need to take her out to really bed in the new brakes, but been stipping my wheels and getting them ready for a paint.

[Neinris]

Originally Posted by Compeer

Ok so after hitting some bumps a little to hard and hearing the clank and then reading more on threads here I found someone saying they thought it was the brake hose bracket that hit and not the fuel tank, I have had a look and they are right. Not sure how I did not notice this before...

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

[Compeer]

Originally Posted by Neinris

BTW, I checked and my brake line bracket also hits. I will be relocating my brake line brackets.

I looked at it but the brake line doesnt have much room and still goes over the top of it and the brake line was a bit tight when I shoved it down that side to see how it would fit, I think you need a 2-3cm longer hose?