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03-17-2016, 08:31 PM | #217 |
Drives: 2013 Yaris Hatchback L Join Date: May 2013
Location: Newark NJ
Posts: 229
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From looking over a buddies EG hatch wth a k20 w/6speed, you'd have to get custom everything. Notch the frame rails, new mounts, new exhaust manifold, radiator relocation, new axles, new throttle pedal, modified fuel system, modified harness to fit Yaris cluster etc.
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03-17-2016, 08:49 PM | #218 | |
iQ innovator & researcher
Drives: 2012 iQ Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 199
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Quote:
Buy a donor K-series. My suggestion is a cheap Base RSX, Ep3, Element, or CRV. You'd be best off with the 02-03 Ep3 as their axles are smaller and fit 4x100 spindles so should be easier to adapt, not to mention their wiring harness is easy to use and adapt. If you need a Helms service manual for wiring, have it in .pdf form, 1. Custom motor and transmission mounts 2. Pre 2000 Honda aluminum half radiator 3. Donor K-series car (for engine, tranny, wiring, immobilizer, matching ecu) 4. K-tuned or other aftermarket shifter box and cables for easy floor mount. 5. Cable operated and modified throttle pedal OR a donor drive by wire ecu and wiring to adapt to the Yaris. 6. Kpro for a drive by wire application OR a 02-04 CRV, 02-05 Ep3, or 02-06 RSX for cable operated throttle. 7. Spindles and strut adaptation from the donor OR custom axles for the Yaris spindles. 8. PATIENCE, MONEY, AND TIME. If you insist on boost a K20a3 is the cheapest swap and can handle 300whp for s VERY LONG TIME, but one the torque gets over 300wtq k20a3s have a tendency to bend rods. K20a2, K24a2, K24a2, K24a4, K20z1, K20z3, and K20a (02-06 ITR or JDM Ep3R) can all handle LOTS power with the only problem being compression and detonation risk on the higher compression K20a2, K20z1, K20z3, and the K20a (11.5:1). I'm sure I'm forgetting things. This is just off the top of my head stuff as a Moderator of Ephatch.com. |
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