I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 13 - Toyota Yaris Forums

cdydjded · 09-01-2010, 07:21 PM

You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-01-2010, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

Agreed, just looking ahead as well. I'm thinking coolant was the issue, but we'll see tomorrow when I try driving again.

Garm, I blame my lack of water temperature gauge on you. If you sold an electric gauge, I woulda bought from you and wouldn't be clueless on where to place this stupid sender unit. And no, no scangauge.

Exhaust leak is dealt with, piping is fixed, so first thing tomorrow once again... I need to do a "stress test" before I go get tuned methinks.

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 01:26 AM

LOL no problem, sometimes its something simple.

If you are still leaking you are not crushing those crush washers enough. You need to put assloads of strength on it not just wrist tight like a 10mm bolt. I'm pretty strong and I have to put my body into it sometimes for them not to leak at all.

Hope you get it all sorted out

Parmas · 09-02-2010, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

The best part is, driving home I got no CELs, and no overheating lights. So I'm going to work on that coupler a bit more, and fix my exhaust leak (could that cause overheating because it's venting into the engine bay?). Then I'll drive the car around and see if I get any overheating lights again. I'm going to assume the worst and expect to get them, so I've been trying to think of ways to keep the water temperature reasonable. So far, the only two ideas I've had was to pull coolant off the turbo (don't want to), and/or to get a performance radiator.

I may be out $170, but it turns out it was money well spent.

I think you could have saved $170 since probably:

1) The overheating was caused by air present into the system (Emptying the present coolant and fill slowly with new one will solve it). To check that the coolant is free from air, switch on heater in cabin while engine is running and check that is coming hot. If not, there is no flow which is = to air into the system.

2) Error codes will be solved mainly by disconnecting the battery for a half an hour or so.

RE: Exhaust leak. That depends what amount of exhaust is leaking. Mainly the most irritable part is that it will leave a good amount of carbon into the engine bay.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 01:39 PM

Took the car out today and things went great.

One issue though.

I got a CEL after driving for a bit. Pulled into Advance Auto, had the code read, it was an O2 sensor code. The details were something like "bank 1, low positive current." Bank 1 is the sensor on the downpipe, correct? If so, it would explain the burning smell I'm still having lol. Assuming it's that sensor, it isn't ruined because my narrowband still works. So this should be as simple as extending the wire and getting it AWAY from the hot side, and heat wrapping it some more, just need to be 100% sure that it is the wire in question.

firemachine69 · 09-02-2010, 02:53 PM

I had that same code IIRC, Toyota had to replace the entire downpipe/cat converter system.

(The warranty is quite long, so you should still be covered.)

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 03:19 PM

It will be a cold day in hell if Toyota ever replaces anything under warranty in a heavily engine modified vehicle for free. Think you may have ruined the sensor when it was doused in oil if it was doused in oil. you did say the downpipe had oil in it or not? Can you get the exact P code number? Bank 1, you only have one bank :P So it will be S1 B1 if its primary, S2 B1 if its secondary.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 04:24 PM

I don't know if I'm in denial or not, but I don't think it's ruined. It was running fine until the engine got really hot, and there was a burning smell. The shrink wrap on it was very hot as well. The fact that my narrowband still displayed accurate AFRs tells me it's not shot, but if I don't address it now it most certainly will be. I'm going to run some resistance checks now to make sure it is okay.

And Toyota replacing it? I'm on my own from now on lol. I knew this right from day one. Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

pimp my yaris · 09-02-2010, 08:18 PM

Video please

cali yaris · 09-02-2010, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

I did -- that was really fun.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I did -- that was really fun.

LOL

Btw guys, I looked up the code I had and it was P2238, "O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit Low." Anyone have any ideas?

As expected, it seems to be related to the A/F sensor. Like I said, the fact that I still get readings on the narrowgauge means it can't be ruined. I still had the CEL when I turned the car on an hour ago too... Does the code just have to be cleared?

And videos.. Soon... Need to find our camera...

EDIT: I'm pretty sure there's a short circuit in the +B wire. Will do a continuity test tomorrow.

pimp my yaris · 09-02-2010, 09:26 PM

Sounds like you got a bad O2 sensor. This is the top sensor before cat. converter. Or possibly your car is runing very rich with the 1zz injectors and may need tuning with the AEM FIC. What does your wideband sensor read?

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 10:55 PM

http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...4h/cip2238.pdf

BAMP

why? · 09-03-2010, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I did -- that was really fun.

you should have videoed that, I am sure it was great entertainment.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-03-2010, 04:37 PM

CEL solved. Surprisingly, it was the wire I run off the narrowband gauge, It was either short circuiting / open circuit, but once I cut it the CEL disappeared. All other wires were showing continuity and the correct voltage, so I was getting a little worried.

I also extended the A/F sensor wires and ran it through some heat retardant plastic conduit. I have it running away from the downpipe to the ECM, then across the top. If there was any wire burning issues, this should hopefully be resolved now.

Also had a small coolant leak STILL. I finally just replaced the brass fitting I was using and it seems to be ok now.

As soon as all these damn problems stop coming up I'll get more pictures and video up lol. It's been over a week of battling problems and I'd like to just drive the car care-free.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-03-2010, 11:00 PM

God I need a code reader...

Got another CEL tonight. No idea what it is, but I'm assuming it's O2 related again. I wouldn't be surprised considering I put electric tape too close to the sensor and its become molted and is boiling on the O2 sensor lmao. Gonna uh... Clean that off before drawing any other conclusions.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-05-2010, 11:09 AM

Just got my codes read. I still have P2238, but now I have P0101. The latter is "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance." Interesting that both are circuit related... Anyone have any ideas on what's going on?

Would like to add that the car drives absolutely fine.

Nexus1155 · 09-05-2010, 11:13 AM

Pulling in more air and running a different AFR than expected more than a certain # of seconds will throw codes im thinking. ECU is constantly adjusting for the airflow and fuel. This only happens when you enter boost? You install your management system with a MAF clamp and a narrowband adjuster to make it seem like the ECU only sees 14.7 all the time?

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
FS: Autometer Cobalt 6170 Boost Gauge	Nexus1155	Items for Sale by private party	2	02-02-2011 04:08 PM
Multiple cylinder misfire under boost	LtNoogie	Forced Induction Forum	13	11-02-2009 04:44 AM
Fill up with Super before starting your boost project	LtNoogie	Forced Induction Forum	5	12-01-2008 06:41 PM
Supercharger Selection and Limiting Boost	Nexus1155	Forced Induction Forum	1	12-01-2008 03:51 PM
WTB: Boost Gauges	Teruyume	Items for Sale by private party	4	11-12-2006 02:42 PM

09-01-2010, 07:21 PM	#217
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

09-02-2010, 01:26 AM	#219
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	LOL no problem, sometimes its something simple. If you are still leaking you are not crushing those crush washers enough. You need to put assloads of strength on it not just wrist tight like a 10mm bolt. I'm pretty strong and I have to put my body into it sometimes for them not to leak at all. Hope you get it all sorted out

09-02-2010, 01:39 PM	#221
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Took the car out today and things went great. One issue though. I got a CEL after driving for a bit. Pulled into Advance Auto, had the code read, it was an O2 sensor code. The details were something like "bank 1, low positive current." Bank 1 is the sensor on the downpipe, correct? If so, it would explain the burning smell I'm still having lol. Assuming it's that sensor, it isn't ruined because my narrowband still works. So this should be as simple as extending the wire and getting it AWAY from the hot side, and heat wrapping it some more, just need to be 100% sure that it is the wire in question.

09-02-2010, 02:53 PM	#222
firemachine69 School'er of hard knocks Drives: Silver Yaris 4dr. HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sudbury, On Posts: 556	I had that same code IIRC, Toyota had to replace the entire downpipe/cat converter system. (The warranty is quite long, so you should still be covered.)

09-02-2010, 03:19 PM	#223
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	It will be a cold day in hell if Toyota ever replaces anything under warranty in a heavily engine modified vehicle for free. Think you may have ruined the sensor when it was doused in oil if it was doused in oil. you did say the downpipe had oil in it or not? Can you get the exact P code number? Bank 1, you only have one bank :P So it will be S1 B1 if its primary, S2 B1 if its secondary.

09-02-2010, 04:24 PM	#224
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I don't know if I'm in denial or not, but I don't think it's ruined. It was running fine until the engine got really hot, and there was a burning smell. The shrink wrap on it was very hot as well. The fact that my narrowband still displayed accurate AFRs tells me it's not shot, but if I don't address it now it most certainly will be. I'm going to run some resistance checks now to make sure it is okay. And Toyota replacing it? I'm on my own from now on lol. I knew this right from day one. Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

09-02-2010, 08:18 PM	#225
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Video please

09-02-2010, 09:26 PM	#228
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Sounds like you got a bad O2 sensor. This is the top sensor before cat. converter. Or possibly your car is runing very rich with the 1zz injectors and may need tuning with the AEM FIC. What does your wideband sensor read?

09-02-2010, 10:55 PM	#229
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...4h/cip2238.pdf BAMP

09-03-2010, 04:37 PM	#231
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	CEL solved. Surprisingly, it was the wire I run off the narrowband gauge, It was either short circuiting / open circuit, but once I cut it the CEL disappeared. All other wires were showing continuity and the correct voltage, so I was getting a little worried. I also extended the A/F sensor wires and ran it through some heat retardant plastic conduit. I have it running away from the downpipe to the ECM, then across the top. If there was any wire burning issues, this should hopefully be resolved now. Also had a small coolant leak STILL. I finally just replaced the brass fitting I was using and it seems to be ok now. As soon as all these damn problems stop coming up I'll get more pictures and video up lol. It's been over a week of battling problems and I'd like to just drive the car care-free.

09-03-2010, 11:00 PM	#232
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	God I need a code reader... Got another CEL tonight. No idea what it is, but I'm assuming it's O2 related again. I wouldn't be surprised considering I put electric tape too close to the sensor and its become molted and is boiling on the O2 sensor lmao. Gonna uh... Clean that off before drawing any other conclusions.

09-05-2010, 11:09 AM	#233
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Just got my codes read. I still have P2238, but now I have P0101. The latter is "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance." Interesting that both are circuit related... Anyone have any ideas on what's going on? Would like to add that the car drives absolutely fine.

09-05-2010, 11:13 AM	#234
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Pulling in more air and running a different AFR than expected more than a certain # of seconds will throw codes im thinking. ECU is constantly adjusting for the airflow and fuel. This only happens when you enter boost? You install your management system with a MAF clamp and a narrowband adjuster to make it seem like the ECU only sees 14.7 all the time?