DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step) - Page 3 - Toyota Yaris Forums

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 11:37 AM

I just need the simple one in the diagram, on/off and set as I drive 55 mph straight and there really isn't any need for the 4 button set up. So if I get the value pack, it will have the 390 but will it have the 240 ohm that’s depicted in the picture, where do I get that one,

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 12:09 PM

also, can anyone point out the d3 connector better, I spent 20 minutes looking for it, I found the main section with all the plugs is it located there, or somewhere else. Sorry I'm very new to this car, thanks in advance.

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opt101

also, can anyone point out the d3 connector better, I spent 20 minutes looking for it, I found the main section with all the plugs is it located there, or somewhere else. Sorry I'm very new to this car, thanks in advance.

If you look at my original DIY on this there is a picture that shows D3 clearly:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=DIY+cruise

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opt101

I just need the simple one in the diagram, on/off and set as I drive 55 mph straight and there really isn't any need for the 4 button set up. So if I get the value pack, it will have the 390 but will it have the 240 ohm that’s depicted in the picture, where do I get that one,

If you are doing the two switch method, then you really just need one resistor in the 567-693 ohm range. The Value pack includes a 680 ohm resistor which would be perfect.

Out of curiosity, where in CT are you? I am in Southbury and have an inventory of literally thousands of resistors.

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 01:02 PM

Thanks for the better diagram CTScott, now I know where it is, I'm located just out side New Haven.

YamilR · 09-13-2009, 01:23 PM

CTScott, If you're willing to sell the switches and the resistors all ready wired for the two switches configuration, I'll be willing to buy them of you.

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 01:31 PM

CTScott, would these resistors work?

Radio shack part # 271-1117
680 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5

or do I need the ones in the value pack,

also will these switches work.

Radio shack part # 275-1571
SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack)
One red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole.

or are these better

Radio shack part # 275-609
3A 250VAC momentary switches normally open

And my last question, if the vehicle goes for service, I assume all this would have to be pulled out as it would most likley void the warranty? Thanks in advance.

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opt101

CTScott, would these resistors work?

Radio shack part # 271-1117
680 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5

or do I need the ones in the value pack,

also will these switches work.

Radio shack part # 275-1571
SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack)
One red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole.

or are these better

Radio shack part # 275-609
3A 250VAC momentary switches normally open

And my last question, if the vehicle goes for service, I assume all this would have to be pulled out as it would most likley void the warranty? Thanks in advance.

680 Ohms is fine. The 1/2 watt resistors are physically larger, but are fine.

For the switches either is fine. I used 275-644, but really any normally open momentary switch is fine. You are switching 0 current, so the rating really doesn't matter.

As far as warranty goes; Unless the dealer can prove that your DIY cruise control actually caused something to fail, they can't say that you voided the warranty.

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YamilR

CTScott, If you're willing to sell the switches and the resistors all ready wired for the two switches configuration, I'll be willing to buy them of you.

I could. I would just have to find switches that mount from the rear, rather than front, so you could just drill your holes, poke the switches through, connect the wires, and cruise.

One of the switches that Opto101 mentioned above, would work for that:

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 03:20 PM

the ones pictured above are tiny, just got back from radio shack and after seeing them in person, I went with the 275-644

Much better option

Off to find pin 40 now, will update with photos and status

opt101 · 09-13-2009, 07:38 PM

Worked out great!!! Thanks to everyone, especially CTScott for the further incite, and everyone else who made the how to pdf! I opted for the 2 button set up as I drive a set speed during my commute. The parts where easily obtained from my local radio shack.

Parts list:

Qty (1) Radio shack part # 271-1117 680 Ohm 1/2W Resistor

Qty (2) Radio shack part # 275-644 3A 125V SPST Pushbutton

12 Feet of wire

Ground loop terminal

All together I was just under 15 bucks

I used the grommet on top of the ECU for easy access to the interior.

My only concern is I put the wire into pin 40 and let a couple strands come out the end of the main harness connector as depicted, re connected it to the ecu, but I was wondering will the wire in pin 40 just stay there, should I try to put that rubber piece I removed on the side of the wire so to make sure it stays put or don't worry about it?

Here is my dash install

I also used a hot glue gun to make sure everything stays put behind trim piece.

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 08:45 PM

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

flutie98 · 09-14-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

CTScott · 09-14-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flutie98

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

flutie98 · 09-14-2009, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

Ill snap some pics when i get home from work. I tried all 4 orientations and the one that seats the most still is not fully in.

Soylentglass · 09-14-2009, 04:17 PM

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

flutie98 · 09-14-2009, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soylentglass

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

hmm any pics as to where that locking slider is?

CTScott · 09-14-2009, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flutie98

hmm any pics as to where that locking slider is?

It's the white thing at one end of the connector:

Lock latched:
Lock Down.jpg

Lock released:
Lock Up.jpg

Pop it with a small screwdriver from the side:
Pop Lock.jpg

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09-13-2009, 11:37 AM	#37
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	I just need the simple one in the diagram, on/off and set as I drive 55 mph straight and there really isn't any need for the 4 button set up. So if I get the value pack, it will have the 390 but will it have the 240 ohm that’s depicted in the picture, where do I get that one,

09-13-2009, 12:09 PM	#38
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	also, can anyone point out the d3 connector better, I spent 20 minutes looking for it, I found the main section with all the plugs is it located there, or somewhere else. Sorry I'm very new to this car, thanks in advance.

09-13-2009, 01:02 PM	#41
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	Thanks for the better diagram CTScott, now I know where it is, I'm located just out side New Haven.

09-13-2009, 01:23 PM	#42
YamilR View User's Garage Drives: Absolutely Red Liftback Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 570	CTScott, If you're willing to sell the switches and the resistors all ready wired for the two switches configuration, I'll be willing to buy them of you.

09-13-2009, 01:31 PM	#43
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	CTScott, would these resistors work? Radio shack part # 271-1117 680 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 or do I need the ones in the value pack, also will these switches work. Radio shack part # 275-1571 SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack) One red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole. or are these better Radio shack part # 275-609 3A 250VAC momentary switches normally open And my last question, if the vehicle goes for service, I assume all this would have to be pulled out as it would most likley void the warranty? Thanks in advance.

09-13-2009, 03:20 PM	#46
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	the ones pictured above are tiny, just got back from radio shack and after seeing them in person, I went with the 275-644 Much better option Off to find pin 40 now, will update with photos and status

09-13-2009, 07:38 PM	#47
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	Worked out great!!! Thanks to everyone, especially CTScott for the further incite, and everyone else who made the how to pdf! I opted for the 2 button set up as I drive a set speed during my commute. The parts where easily obtained from my local radio shack. Parts list: Qty (1) Radio shack part # 271-1117 680 Ohm 1/2W Resistor Qty (2) Radio shack part # 275-644 3A 125V SPST Pushbutton 12 Feet of wire Ground loop terminal All together I was just under 15 bucks I used the grommet on top of the ECU for easy access to the interior. My only concern is I put the wire into pin 40 and let a couple strands come out the end of the main harness connector as depicted, re connected it to the ecu, but I was wondering will the wire in pin 40 just stay there, should I try to put that rubber piece I removed on the side of the wire so to make sure it stays put or don't worry about it? Here is my dash install I also used a hot glue gun to make sure everything stays put behind trim piece.

09-13-2009, 08:45 PM	#48
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota: 82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM. Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

09-14-2009, 04:17 PM	#52
Soylentglass Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N.E. Posts: 6	I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers. My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30 On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.