Track tuning a Yaris

[aucorium]

hey guys

been thinking bout doing a few track days , and i know the car has to be up to the task.

a few things have been worrying me though

1 - oil ? do i need a baffeled sup to prevent loss of oil pressure etc when cornering ?

2 - i will need better brakes that i know

3 - my clutch will get chowed aswell right ?

4 - how bout cooiling ducts for the brakes ? keep them nice and cold ? maybe from the fog light holes in front ?

[cali yaris]

I have tracked my car several days, have not messed with the oil system and pressure seems fine.

Brakes for track: pads + stainless lines + DOT 4 fluid and you are good to go.

Cooling ducts: great idea, and people have used the foglight holes. I probably will too when I move from drag racing back to road racing again.

[A-tron]

From what I've heard a lot of air gets pushed threw those foglights when they are open up. Awesome spot for break cooling.

[YarisPR]

Originally Posted by A-tron

From what I've heard a lot of air gets pushed threw those foglights when they are open up. Awesome spot for break cooling.

Awesome spot for an airduct for the CAI

[markitect]

Don't forget tires. A good set of high performance summer tires mounted on spare rims will do a lot to improve your times. Also then you won't have to worry about tearing your normal tires up as they are the thing that will take the most punishment. Just don't get R-Compounds, they are great for experienced drivers, but not good for newer drivers.

Other then that better brakes is all you really need, and your clutch shouldn't have any problems, just go easy on the launch.

[kngrsll]

i bought all the parts to build ducts, i plan on doing it soon. yea, id get some good pads and fluids, lines are nice if you dont mind the extra expense, but they are not absolutely crucial, just nice to have. keep good tires on it and you are good to go.

i have tracked my car about 9 days now with only shocks, rear sway bar, and springs, everything else was stock. the car was phenomenal and everyone is blown away by how quick it can be. so go enjoy yourself, you dont need to dump alot of money into the car.

[botchilah]

Just make sure everything's on tight and torqued properly (especially wheel studs and if you're stick, the shift knob, and if you've got an aftermarket steering wheel, the steering wheel itself!), all the fluids are topped up to the right levels and you don't have shit lying around inside your car. A friend once forgot to bring out a bottle of water in his car, drove like mad on the track (pretty fast guy) but his water bottle crept into and underneath the pedals :)

I've seen videos of professional drivers have their steering wheels and shift knobs come off. I once ripped out my shiftknob lol

[jkuchta]

If you go do a pretty hard trackday, do it on fresh oil, and change the oil after the trackday. It may seem like overkill, but it's cheap insurance, and you need to get under there and make sure everything's tight anyway.

I ran my oil level at about halfway on the dipstick (like 3.2-3.5L with filter during an oil change), and didn't see ANY oil pressure fluctuations not associated with rpm. Also, the oil temp never went over like 109 degrees C, even at the end of an all-out 25 min. session.

Your clutch will be fine as long as you don't rest your foot on the pedal when not in use.

Better pads and fluid at a minimum should be done on the braking side (as Cali and others have said). Running XP8 pads up front and 917 shoes (both Carbotech) in back with ATE SUperblue fluid I didn't experiance brake fade at either California Speedway or at the Streets of Willow, so if you don't have the time to get the brake ducts done before the first event don't worry, though more air to the brakes never hurts.

[aucorium]

thanks for all the advise guys !!! you all rock !!

yeah , i think next on the cards will be steel brake lines , dot 4 fluid , discs and pads ( will be chatting to Garm for that ;-) )

i want to use the air foglight ducts for brake cooling but make them removable when im done on the track as the one closest to the air intake will serve as a source for cool air , and now with my scangauge 2 from Garm , i can monitor intake temp when i start messing around with the cold air pipe , but still need the WR secrect weapon intake.

i also like the idea of getting other tires for the track , i recon i might aswell save a bit and get seprate wheels and tires , maybe 15inch lightweights for track use only with a nice grippy tire on.

[kngrsll]

Originally Posted by aucorium

thanks for all the advise guys !!! you all rock !!

yeah , i think next on the cards will be steel brake lines , dot 4 fluid , discs and pads ( will be chatting to Garm for that ;-) )

i want to use the air foglight ducts for brake cooling but make them removable when im done on the track as the one closest to the air intake will serve as a source for cool air , and now with my scangauge 2 from Garm , i can monitor intake temp when i start messing around with the cold air pipe , but still need the WR secrect weapon intake.

i also like the idea of getting other tires for the track , i recon i might aswell save a bit and get seprate wheels and tires , maybe 15inch lightweights for track use only with a nice grippy tire on.

all great ideas... good luck mate! i have a track day this weekend, im pumped. Ill see if i can kill off my stock pads, bc in 3 weeks, its on to a different track, much harder on brakes. bad for me, good for Garm lulz

[aucorium]

sweet , let us know how it goes , and get some pics bro !!!

[jkuchta]

Almost forgot....

Put some negative camber in the front and rear, as with the stock camber settings the car eats outside sholder of all four tires. Initial turn-in is pretty cool for about a lap or two until the tires start to overheat, and then they get really gooey (not good).

1-1.5 degrees is probably all you'll need...or at least a great start!

[aucorium]

Originally Posted by jkuchta

Almost forgot....

Put some negative camber in the front and rear, as with the stock camber settings the car eats outside sholder of all four tires. Initial turn-in is pretty cool for about a lap or two until the tires start to overheat, and then they get really gooey (not good).

1-1.5 degrees is probably all you'll need...or at least a great start!

lol ! thanks buddy !! i also forgot bout that , i currently have then cambered a little more , but will need camber adjustable bolts to go more , currently im only on 0.18 , where standard is 0.10