THE 2ZRFE engine swap thread - Just the facts

[brushforhire]

Here is the basic rundown of what is needed to do this swap:

2ZRFE engine
xD ECM
xD Engine Harness
ECM and Harness should be both from the same trans as the one you want to use, e.i. auto or manual
xD Alternator
xD A/C compressor
xD MAF sensor and intake - see intake section for better details
xD belt
xD exhaust - see exhaust section
Passenger side engine mount - Part number 12305-37091
(The engine side bracket is 12315-37040, but that should be on the used engine you get)
Mini Add-a-fuse - see wiring section
Or if you have ABS, then you can steal the speed signal from that, and then use the power supply that would have been for the speed sensor on the transmission.
Oil, filter, coolant, trans fluid.

That will be your basic needs. Most everything else like hoses, and radiator fill pipe can be modified.

[brushforhire]

For the auto trans:

The Yaris auto trans will bolt right up to the 2ZR engine.
You will need to to use the 2ZR flexplate.
Most used engines will come with this already on, in my case they took this off for some reason and I had to buy it.
The parts needed will be:
32116-12030 front spacer plate
32117-12040 rear spacer plate
32101-12100 flexplate - you can find these used all over eBay, cheap.
90105-10048 x 8 bolts that hold the flexplate to the crankshaft

Other than that it bolts right up.

Torque specs for bolts to the crankshaft: 65ft lb. be sure to use a drop or two in the threads of blue locktite.
Flexplate to convertor - 20 Ft lb
Bell housing to engine bolts - 22 Ft lb

flex1.JPG
flex2.JPG
flex3.JPG
flex4.JPG
flex5.JPG

[brushforhire]

Should be the same as the auto, except you are dealing with a clutch and flywheel setup.

Will update as appropriate.

[brushforhire]

Wiring for all swaps:

The MAF sensor does not get power from the harness, because there is no pin in the fusebox for this wire. There are two ways to deal with this.
1.)You will need to pop the black wire with silver spots out of the connector, or just snip it off, but I would lose my mind knowing a stub was there, lol.
MAF sensor wire.JPG
You will need to use the mini add a circuit to provide a switched 12v+ supply to this wire.
add a circuit.jpg

2.) If you are going to use the ABS module to get your speed signal, then you will have two extra wires left from the sensor. A ground and 12v+ power. You could just use the power wire that went to the sensor for the MAF sensor. I am going to test this theory out and see how it pans out.

For the Yaris auto trans:
The xD does not provide a speed signal from its transmission so you have to move your speed sensor wires from the yaris harness/connector over to the xD harness/connector. Same holes are used, so no worries.
This is the speed sensor from the top of the Yaris trans:
speed plug.JPG
The connector that goes on the sensor:
speed connector.JPG
The harness bit on the old harness, you'll cut this open to get all the wire up to the white connector:
speed harness.JPG
The three wires you will remove from the old connector:
three wires in old plug.JPG
I used a needle to get the pins to slide out, kinda tricky, but not to bad.
removing pins.JPG
wires.jpg
Their new home on the xD connector:
xd connector speed.JPG
The order they need to go in:
this is how they go in.JPG

On the auto you will also need to add a pin in upper connector in hole 9, next to the blue wire in location 10. This wire will need to be grounded to the transmission. The valve body in the yaris grounded itself to the ecm, but the xD harness does not provide that.
This is the connector and blue wire, in the picture it is the hole directly right of the solid blue wire.
blue wire.JPG
The easiest way to achieve this, is to take one of the pin/wires out of the old yaris trans, remove the rubber plug on the xD connector, and pop the yaris wire in there. The just add an eyelet and ground it to the trans body itself.
The following picture is not correct, but will give you an idea of what it would look like. I was confused and cut the blue wire and grounded it. I should have left it alone, and added a wire and grounded it the same way. So do not cut the blue wire and ground it!
example.JPG

I will hopefully as some point try and get a better pic, of what it should look like, but it is really crowed in there and hard to get a clear shot. Soon though.

Yaris Manual trans:

I have not confirmed, but I am thinking the speed sensor would be the same wiring swap over deal.

Scion xD trans:

Okay so the ABS module will provide the signal for the speedometer. You will want to buy part number 82998-12720, or steal a wire from another harness. You will be putting this wire into location 4 on the ABS connector. It is the smaller white wire in the top row, four from the left counting the two bigger wires.
abs connector.jpg
Then you can just cut the pink wire that went to the speed sensor and splice the new wire to that, making sure it goes to the connector in the fuse box.
wires.jpg

[brushforhire]

The major issue to deal with here is the collector flange.

The xD's manifold has a larger exit so it will not bolt right up to the yaris down pipe.

Options:

Stock manifold or a/m direct replacement manifold:
1.) cut the yaris flange off and weld on a bigger pivot flange. The downside is that the yaris piping is a bit smaller than the xD so it will be restricted.

2.) get an xD midpipe and muffler. Expensive OEM, can be found a/m

3.) Take to a exhaust shop and get them to custom make you something - affordable and local.

RPM long tube header:

1.) This will not bolt up to any oem midpipe. You will need either a custom midpipe or buy the one from RPM.
2.) Either way you will need to extend the second O2 sensor wires. The long tube header pushes the location for the sensor back further.
3.) This is expensive, and so far RPM seems to be hit and miss.
4.) I went with the RPM header and mid pipe. I do like it, but wish they had a bit better service and shipping.
5.) The rpm midpipe does not use a pivot flange at the rear like OEM. It is just a flat flange. They sent me a gasket and it worked.


Muffler options:

I have the Hatchback and the xD muffler bolts right up to the RPM exhaust uses the same mounting locations.

I bought the DC sports muffler. It uses an extra mounting point, with a special rubber hanger that goes in one of the spare tire well drain holes. It worked pretty well.

Easiest suggestion for the exhaust:

If your state will allow the sale of used cat convertors, or you can find an A/M unit, the oem option would be the smoothest.

[brushforhire]

This is just how I did it, there are other ways. I will try and keep this simple, and straight forward. I will also try and include any little tips I came across along the way.

- You will want to get the A/C evacuated before starting this project. Unbolt the a/c lines from the compressor and condenser and set aside. Tape over the ends to prevent contamination getting in them. You will want to unbolt the a/c lines that to the firewall also. A single 10mm bolt holds a plate that keeps them in place at the firewall. There is also bracket that goes to the apron that needs to be unbolted. These lines are like working a magic trick to manipulate to get them out.
- I found it easy to remove the front bumper, radiator, rad support, etc. and just pull the engine and transmission out as one unit. It slid right out of the front of the car.
- Removing the cowl panel, and black metal until the plastic makes getting in there so much easier.
- Loosen, remove the flexplate to torque convertor bolts before removing the engine. Under the engine, where the block meets the trans, there is black plastic square to access these. Then once you have the assembly out of the vehicle you can just loosen the trans mounting bolts and the transmission will come off.
- Drain the fluids first:
There is a petcock at the bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain the coolant.
The transmission fluid drain plug is an allen key bolt. I believe it is 10mm.
The engine oil drain plug is 14mm socket.
- The engine and trans are held in by three mounting points. - Make sure you have the engine supported before unbolting the mounts.
The passenger side mount is really obvious. I believe they are 14mm head bolts that hold it in. The more you take off before trying to pull the
engine assembly out, the less stuff it will get caught on.
The rear mount is underneath and comes right out of the cradle to meet the back of the transmission. Just one bolt.
The drive's side one is a bit more interesting. You will have to remove the battery and battery tray. The the mount has two bolts that hold it
to the frame from the top, and two that hold it from the engine bay side to the frame. The top two are easy enough. The front side one is
not bad, but the rear side one can be a bit tricky to get. Once you have those out, you can remove the one big center bolt that holds the
bracket that attaches to the car and the bracket that bolts to the transmission. I also found loosening the fusebox made it easier to get the
bracket out of there.
- The fuel supply line needs to be unclipped from the metal fuel rail line. I put a plastic baggy and ziptie over the opening after I got it off.
- The engine harness needs to be disconnected from the ECM on the firewall. Pull up on the grey locking levers and the plugs will dislodge.
- There are also several smaller vacuum lines and heater core water lines that need to be disconnected.
- If the engine seems to be hung up when you try and pull it out, double check all around to make sure you didn't miss any wires or hoses. Lots of little things to damage in the engine bay.
- Disconnect the exhaust. Either unbolt the manifold from the head, or take the bolts that go through the springs out. I had to cut mine off.
- You can deal with the axles one of two ways.
Just pop them out of the trans and leave them in the hubs, or take them out of the hubs and transmission.
I would recommend taking them out altogether, so there is less to try and finagle.
To take the axle out of the trans, there are flat spots on the axle that you can set a prybar, or wide blunt chiesel, at and whack with a
hammer and they pop right out. Super easy.
-

[brushforhire]

You have two choices here really.

Use the stock xD air cleaner, intake tube, etc. Straight foward, and easy to do. I believe it should bolt right in.

Or get an aftermarket intake.

I went with the Takada intake. It pretty much bolts right up. I am waiting on one last coupler to line everything up and then I will know for sure, but so far I have no issues at all.
You will need this piece to hold the MAF sensor if you go with a Takada unit:
aFe xD intake.png
That is part of the air cleaner lid and not easy to find. They went with reusing the old one to save themselves the cost of including the proper diameter piping and mount point. Kinda disappointed for how much they charge.
It is a nice intake, but I would go with another brand to avoid the headache I had.

Dc sports intake has the MAF sensor mount right on it. I would recommend this one also.
dc-sports-cold-air-intake-scion-xd-CAI7043-500x500.jpg
They make good product. - Thanks, Cranky, for the heads up!

[brushforhire]

Tools you should have:

3/8" Rachet
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm
Deep and shallow sockets
Extensions

Torque wrench, I like to torque just about everything I can. I don't really torque my 10mm bolts that hold most of the sheet metal together, but anything engine drivetrain, you really should be. Over tightening can be just as bad, if not worse, than under tightening.

Screwdrivers
Razorblades
Picks/small point things
Assorted pliers and grips

Catch pans for oil/coolant/fluids

Not really necessary, but reallly really helpful:

Engine crane - enabled me to do this completely solo in my garage

1/2" Impact gun - I used a Ryobi one+ with the super lithium pack completely awesome tool. For setup it would be about $200. Usually can get stuff on sale. I have tons of tools for house work, so I already 4 batteries, and charger and stuff.

Impact sockets - Mostly I used the 14, 17, 19, and 21mm sockets. I have a set from Kobalt I got from lowes. Totally good stuff. I would not recommend using regular sockets, as they can shatter. Not that I am innocent of using them in tight spots.

Oil filter wrench for housing on 2ZR engine - I bought Motivx Tools MX2321. Fit better than any the techs used at Toyota. Has slots for the fins on the side of the housing so it grips it at more than just the flutes.

Prybars - useful for many things, getting the axles out is super easy with that.

Taps and dies - can be a life saver in a pinch, shouldn't really need them though.

Axle socket 30mm 12pt - If you want to take the axles out. More on that later.

Breaker bar - Really handy to get that extra leverage to loosen bolts and nuts.

More to come as I think of them, or they get pointed out to me. I take my tools for granted and sometimes don't even think of what I am using.

[brushforhire]

More info to come, as per request. Good suggestion, too!

My Yaris did not have an immobilizer and neither did the 09 xD I got my ecm from. So if this is the setup you are working with, then you are good to go.

From what I can tell, the xD in the US did not come with an immobilizer. 09-14 xDs just pulled up keys without the chips for me. Someone correct me if this incorrect.

I will cover how to rewire, so that the ECU will start.

The main issue is that the chip key goes into the ignition. The immobilizer picks up on the code from the chip and transmits the signal to the ecm and double checks itself against the code in the eeprom chip on the ecu board. If they match, then the immobilizer ecu allows the vehicle to start. The US xD ecm has not eeprom chip so - no go.

I am reading through the wiring diagrams right now. I will also check how mine is setup.

[brushforhire]

So far what I know:

You should have ABS to get a speed signal from.

You will need the xD transmission of your choice to match the ecm and harness you are using. (Auto or Manual)

The xD axles - different splines, so the yaris axles will not work

You will need to steal a speedometer signal from somewhere. The ABS module is where you will get this from.

Okay here are some outloud thoughts. The speed signal comes specifically from the pink wire from the speed sensor. The white/black wire is a ground, and the black is the 12v+ from the fuse box.

The pink wire goes all the way to the cluster to provide the speedo the signal it needs. From what I read, it works off a pulse signal.

Okay so talking to Armstrongracing, there is a pink wire coming off the ABS module on the xD. On the big connector (A15) it is pin location 11 W/ VSC, or location 22 W/O VSC. This is the pink wire that goes to the cluster to provide the xD the speed signal.

The part number for the wires are 82998-12720. I ordered one from toyota. I will pop it into slot 22 on the connector and then hook the wire to the pink wire from the speed sensor and see if it sends the signal to the cluster properly. I bought one wire from my Toyota dealer, and simply cut the pink speed signal wire, and soldered it to it.

So after much trial and error, literally just trying each empty spot, I found the signal. It is pin location 4. Please see wiring for more info.

The corolla 6 spd:

No real info yet.

[sang pengembara]

Lots of work.. Consider 1.5l to be 1.8l (correct me if I am wrong).

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[brushforhire]

Thought I would post some facts comparing the stock 1nz engine to the 2zr engine. Also a little bit of comparison to the blitz supercharger and why I think this swap is so worth the effort.

1NZFE:
1.5L
109 HP at the crank (82.1 Kw)
Dyno'd at about 90.5 hp at the wheels - bone stock
103 Ft lb torque at the crank (141 nm)
VVT-i

2ZRFE:
1.8L
128 hp at the crank (95 kw)
Dyno'd at about 123 whp with an intake
Dyno'd at about 148 whp with an intake and long tube header, and full
exhaust
126 ft lb torque at crank (171 nm)
Dual VVT-i

The 1NZFE with the blitz super charger dyno'd at about 130whp.

Blitz supercharger cost about $4000 and seems to have it's own sets of issues.

I would say that between my engine, intake, and exhaust I might have $1800 in it. I will try and get it dyno'd soon.

The swap is all engine, and no weight gains. - Weighed as per Armstrongracing.

If anyone has anything to add to this, please hit me up. I want this to be correct as it can be.

[ArmstrongRacing]

There is no weight gain from the 2zr, my car was in the 2360's before and after the swap on the SCCA's scales.

[junorico24]

Too much work, parts and DIY know how to get it right. The prius piston swap seems easier.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by junorico24

Too much work, parts and DIY know how to get it right. The prius piston swap seems easier.

Bolt-on, drop-in engine swap vs. pull your engine, completely disassemble it, swap pistons, reassemble everything. Yes, it costs more cash to get the parts, but for someone that isn't trained or skilled in engine building this is a weekend project to get an extra 30 hp with stock reliability.

[junorico24]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Bolt-on, drop-in engine swap vs. pull your engine, completely disassemble it, swap pistons, reassemble everything. Yes, it costs more cash to get the parts, but for someone that isn't trained or skilled in engine building this is a weekend project to get an extra 30 hp with stock reliability.

Will it be as good as mazda3 sp20 or sp25?

[darkangel86]

Hi guys, I have a 1.0i 3 cyl yaris, and as much as i love the reliability of it, i just can't handle not having power anymore. I've been thinking about a sensible transplant that in future will allow me to upgrade to turbo, i see there are kits available online for this engine.

My question is this.

Being a 1.0i, I was wondering if it would be possible to mount the 2zrfe engine to my stock manual trans? If so, do you think it would need a different bell-housing? And also, would the side-shafts be able to handle the extra 40 odd kws?

Some help on this would be much appreciated. I will monitor your responses

[MedMantle]

Yas, nog 'n Suid Afrikaner! Hey, as far as I know the gearbox is the same from the 1.0l to the 1.8l but wait for one of the clever guys to respond. I have the 1.3l and I am considering just swapping to the 1.5l because a few people that have done it reckoned that the 1.3 ECU will handle the 1.5 engine and everything else is the same.

I have done some searching here in SA and finding a 1.8 is harder than I thought. Got one quote for R25000 vs the 1.5 which is around R8000.

But if you do find one and get all the bits I swear I'd fly up to you to lend a hand!