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Old 09-30-2018, 12:53 PM   #37
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
They are the same bolts, I reused the corolla bracket bolts on my xD bracket.
Awesome! Thanks!
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:59 PM   #38
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TIS Techinfo...

Wow, what a steep learning curve, being relatively new to wiring diagrams.

I figured I'd give myself a little project to help me learn the system and how to interpret wiring diagrams in general. I want to see if my cruise control - currently installed in my Yaris - will work after the engine swap.

Here are 2 snippets from the larger cruise control system circuits that (I think) compares the wiring of the xD and Yaris from the ECU to cruise control stock.

Please look at the pic and tell me if I'm interpreting this correctly. Although the connectors in each vehicle have different names, they are the same shape and the pins are in the same place. I'm pretty sure that this is only one factor in the whole cruise control system that would have to be examined.




Also, I'm waiting to hear back from the seller of the engine for the VIN number. Gots to find out if the engine came out of a TMC made Corolla or TMMK made. Not sure if this would apply to the engine or just the other parts of the car. Either way, it's slowing me down from downloading all the diagrams I need for the Corolla.
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Old 09-30-2018, 05:17 PM   #39
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Yes all of the pins “mostly” match up for all of the features. There may be a wire change needed for the auto trans torque converter solenoid, but that my only apply to corolla harnesses. Take a look at Brushforhire’s thread.

And of course, the MAF sensor power wire and swap over the speed sensor wires

Last edited by ArmstrongRacing; 09-30-2018 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:31 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing View Post
Yes all of the pins “mostly” match up for all of the features. There may be a wire change needed for the auto trans torque converter solenoid, but that my only apply to corolla harnesses. Take a look at Brushforhire’s thread.

And of course, the MAF sensor power wire and swap over the speed sensor wires
Thank you! I will check out brushforhire's thread again.

Here is one minor difference I've found in the cruise control systems between the Yaris and xD. Don't know if this will make the cruise control non-functional.



I've downloaded a lot of diagrams and will use them to plan the speed sensor wire swaps although it has been documented here on YW (looking at the diagrams is helping me to understand how everything is interrelated) . I'll also check out the TC circuits for each car. I know that an alternate source of power was used for the MAF sensor (the reason for the mini add a circuit).

Thanks again!
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:19 PM   #41
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A couple more bits...

Alternator and A/C compressor. UPDATE: This A/C compressor does not fit. See post#135 for different part.

Looks like another trip to the online hardware store! Not sure if the Yaris A/C compressor bolts will work.

EDIT: Looks like the bolts are the same! Yay! Part#9011908B42

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Old 10-01-2018, 09:20 PM   #42
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Careful with the compressor bolts, if they are the same part number then they obviously are compatible.

However, I had a fully pressurized a/c line blow off the compressor and the refrigerant blew out 1 inch in front of my face because the bolt was too short and hadn't actually threaded into the compressor properly and let go.

Triple check your bolts before re pressuring I almost learned a hard lesson that day but got lucky. It will freeze your cornea very fast
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:01 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Careful with the compressor bolts, if they are the same part number then they obviously are compatible.

However, I had a fully pressurized a/c line blow off the compressor and the refrigerant blew out 1 inch in front of my face because the bolt was too short and hadn't actually threaded into the compressor properly and let go.

Triple check your bolts before re pressuring I almost learned a hard lesson that day but got lucky. It will freeze your cornea very fast
Thanks Trevor. I remember you mentioned that. Scary! The bolts I was referring to are to mount the compressor. I have yet to match the part numbers between the two cars for the bolts that hold the lines to the compressor. I found a diagram with the bolts for one car, but not the other. Did you ultimately use the Yaris bolts to attach the a/c lines to the compressor? Or did you get new ones?

So, I went to an exhaust shop today and the techs were really interested in the idea of the swap. Nice guys. They had ideas that were cool and affordable but they had to pass it off the manager who did the quote. I was just trying to get a sense of cost and they gave me a price of $300.00 just to connect my stock exhaust to the Corolla manifold! Other shops I called won't do the job unless they bolt on their own aftermarket parts. I have decided to buy a whole new exhaust system for the car. Mine is pretty patchy and kind of noisy as it is. It was due for some exhaust work, and my wife has agreed that it is a repair outside of the swap budget. Well, at least part of the cost anyway.

My options are (shipping included):

1) Rock Auto: $586.00 CAD for xD Walker midpipe (cats, resonator) and new xD Walker muffler. All stainless steel limited lifetime warranty.

2) Rock Auto: $549.00 CAD EASTERN CATALYTIC 40826 SS midpipe and Walker xD muffler

3)$647.00 CAD for Magnaflow (cats, resonator) Inlet 2.25", outlet 2.25" midpipe and new Walker xD muffler (providing it mates with the Magnaflow midpipe).

4) $485.00 CAD (contingent on an accepted offer) used 2008 OEM xD midpipe (eBay) and new Walker xD muffler. I'm a little sceptical about buying a 10 yr old CAT.

The nice thing about the 4 options above is no labour charge for install. I'll need the donuts and new spring bolt kits of course too. All my rubber isolators are in great shape and I assume they are transferable.

The Magnaflow sounds appealing but not sure if 2.25" is necessary or worth the extra $$. It's doubtful that I'd ever do anything down the road that would require higher flow.

Product links:

Walker xD Muffler
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4562&jsn=14711

Walker Midpipe:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0321&jsn=10321

Magnaflow Midpipe
https://www.tdotperformance.ca/magna...d-2-25-od.html

Eastern Catalytic Midpipe:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0322&jsn=10322

eBay xD midpipe:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Pip...oAAOSwQFZbhDnu

I'm definitely open to opinions as well as other options as long as it stays within a similar range. I haven't seen much else though that isn't significantly more expensive.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:18 AM   #44
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Hmm... I used the Yaris' bolts to attach the AC hoses at the compressor.. felt like they went in snug, but makes me wonder now.. better check before I (finally) get the system pressurized..

RE: exhaust, I made the exact same thought process and ended up with the Walker due to price and availability.. I'm also really unimpressed with it. The stainless is cheap (409?) not the good salt resistant stuff; the bends are poor and reduce the diameter more than it already is, which is a 1.75" like the Yaris - I never found the xD, the Corolla/iM runs a 2", so it's already a restriction; their own gasket numbers didn't fit their exhaust; and fitment was together wasn't great either. Now, fitment to the Yaris I can't really complain about as it's not for the car, but it didn't fit straight into the 3rd gen like I thought it might (exceptinga rear hangar) - you may have better luck with 2nd gen.

I really wanted the Magnaflow, but no dealer online or (semi)local could get the part; backordered indefinitely.. Now going to end up finding a place to put in something that fits better as soon as I can get a day off to get the car in for a quote - assuming I don't run into the problem of places wanting to install bolt in stuff and/or can't actually properly fab exhaust..

Just food for thought.
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:03 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
Hmm... I used the Yaris' bolts to attach the AC hoses at the compressor.. felt like they went in snug, but makes me wonder now.. better check before I (finally) get the system pressurized..

RE: exhaust, I made the exact same thought process and ended up with the Walker due to price and availability.. I'm also really unimpressed with it. The stainless is cheap (409?) not the good salt resistant stuff; the bends are poor and reduce the diameter more than it already is, which is a 1.75" like the Yaris - I never found the xD, the Corolla/iM runs a 2", so it's already a restriction; their own gasket numbers didn't fit their exhaust; and fitment was together wasn't great either. Now, fitment to the Yaris I can't really complain about as it's not for the car, but it didn't fit straight into the 3rd gen like I thought it might (exceptinga rear hangar) - you may have better luck with 2nd gen.

I really wanted the Magnaflow, but no dealer online or (semi)local could get the part; backordered indefinitely.. Now going to end up finding a place to put in something that fits better as soon as I can get a day off to get the car in for a quote - assuming I don't run into the problem of places wanting to install bolt in stuff and/or can't actually properly fab exhaust..

Just food for thought.
-- Adam
Thanks Adam!

The A/C compressor came with two bolts, so I'll just take those to the local parts shop and have them match them. I'll post up the bolt size later.

I appreciate your observations on the exhaust. As such, I have made an offer on the used OEM midpipe which indeed looks much smoother and less restrictive. As much as I'd like it, I can't really afford a performance muffler, so I guess it's the Walker for now. Sort of shame as I'm guessing the muffler would be a bottleneck. I just can't see any local shops being able to do anything custom without charging me a fortune.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:43 PM   #46
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No problem! I was just really not impressed (as you can tell..) so I'd hate to see you in the same boat.

Before you buy the muffler section, you might want to try and see if your Yaris' muffler fits the Scion xD main pipe - darned if I can find a picture from when I had the exhausts side-by-side, but if I recall they are basically identical; excepting the chrome tip on the Walker xD muffler. Not sure if my noise comes from the main pipe or the muffler, but I find the xD exhaust very 'brap-y', especially when the revs are up. That's of course a preference vs. function..

Looking forward to seeing this come together!
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:29 PM   #47
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I guess I got lucky, I found a complete 09 corolla midpipe in a junkyard and just unbolted it, got a spare O2 sensor with it for $250.

But then it was $100 to get it matched to my existing Yaris exhaust
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:34 PM   #48
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In my experience with a few different exhaust set ups on the 1nz I learned the following:

Below info is on a 2.25" exhaust with the primary cat removed but still running the secondary cat.
Removing the resonator (which is not restrictive at all so has little benefit performance wise) leads to that annoying 4 banger buzzing at anything above 2500rpm. But it did has some nice backfires and burbles. This was with a generic turbo muffler. It also had bad drone on the highway

Adding the resonator back and still keeping the muffler was a great set up as a daily driver. No drone, no annoying buzzing and a slightly aggressive noise but nothing very loud until WOT. I'd recommend this set up as a daily driver and to avoide issues with other people/police. This set up also has little to no burbles or pops - its a very clean sound

Removing the muffler but keeping the one cat and resonator is pretty loud but if you keep it below 2500-3000rpm and don't open the throttle too much it is fine and not too loud. When you get above 3k rpm it is pretty loud and WOT is insane - not annoying insane but think track car BWWWAAHHHH insane. However this is one of the more aggressive sounding exhausts on a 4 banger that I have heard. No raspiness or buzzing. It actually sounds similar to a subie, deeper growl. This will give you a decent amount of burbling but not quite as much as removing the resonator. It will drone a bit on the highway but it is tolerable and not nearly as bad as removing the resonator. It can be driven around police and in neighbourhoods without being obnoxious, you just drive slow or like a normal person on a Sunday drive. - this is my current set up due to a weld breaking on my muffler and everytime I get in it and start it up I smile. It is a nice sounding exhaust.

It seems the facotry resonator does quite a bit for noice on these cars and it is not a restrictive set up like some others out there. My recommendation is keep the resonator.

As for the A/C bolts, yes the mounting bolts are the exact same, I re used my 1nz bolts and they worked perfectly fine. I cannot remember what bolts I ended up using for the a/c compressor lines. Either one of the 1nz ones were too short hence the blow out or I had to re thread it. IIRC I ended up finding another longer bolt from my parts bin.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:54 PM   #49
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Thanks gents! Well, my offer on the used OEM midpipe was turned down without even a counter offer. It wasn't a bad offer. It's just they're sticking pretty tight to their price, I'd say. I may go back and make another offer.

My current exhaust has primary cat gone, resonator gone and two cats (an old cat welded in to act as a resonator of sorts). I have doubled up sparkplug defoulers to kill the MIL I had.

I had another look at the Easter Catalytic midpipe and it looks about the same as the Walker in terms of crude looking bends and pinches.

The sound of the exhaust is less important to me than having a free enough flowing system. That said, what Trevor mentions in paragraph 3 (the recommendation for daily driver) sounds like what I'm looking for. At this point though I'd like a bolt on setup so I can save a few bucks by doing it myself.

If my current Yaris muffler is no different in flow (diameter) than the Scion muffler (except the tip, which I might add, is nice), then to me it makes sense to keep it as it is still in decent shape, so long as it bolts up. I could get a nice tip for that.

I guess after writing this, I'm leaning toward making another offer on the eBay used OEM pipe. Quick question: Is a 10 year old CAT something to be concerned about? And, given all of the above, which approach would you take?

AFAIK, my engine is due to arrive tomorrow. I'm chomping at the bit to start tinkering with it. I have my bottle of Permatex antiseize, small brush set at the ready. Will pick up some silicone lube tomorrow. My airbox, ECU and harness all arrived in the past two days as well. Time to get ready to pay some serious duty (Well, 15% basically). Hoping to have everything home by the weekend.

I have downloaded over 60 wiring schematics from TIS for the 3 cars involved in this swap. It's like being a kid in a candy store! Probably way more that I need but, hey, why not? I may as well since I paid the membership. It ends at midnight tonight.

In a pm to Adam, we briefly discussed whether or not to bolt all accessories on before putting the engine in the car. I'd be interested in your experiences/suggestions around doing this. I would really like as much attached as possible but I don't want to get into damaging parts due to lack of clearance issues.

Thanks again!
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:23 PM   #50
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if the previous car wasn't burning oil than a 10 y/o cat should be fine. If not then just use a spark plug defouler to get rid of the P0420 code.


100% install as much as you can before the install of the engine. Clarence going in isn't an issue with the whole front end off the car. Once the 2zr is in the engine bay you will realise how tight it is an something like a water pump replacement will give you goosebumps.

Also add dielectric grease (or silicone grease) to all of the electrical connectors on the engine. Then install the whole harness to the engine before putting the engine in the car. Then all you have to do is connect the main harness to the ecu behind the engine and you're good to go.

Also have the xD ecu installed on the firewall before the engine goes in
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:15 AM   #51
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Quote:
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if the previous car wasn't burning oil than a 10 y/o cat should be fine. If not then just use a spark plug defouler to get rid of the P0420 code.


100% install as much as you can before the install of the engine. Clarence going in isn't an issue with the whole front end off the car. Once the 2zr is in the engine bay you will realise how tight it is an something like a water pump replacement will give you goosebumps.

Also add dielectric grease (or silicone grease) to all of the electrical connectors on the engine. Then install the whole harness to the engine before putting the engine in the car. Then all you have to do is connect the main harness to the ecu behind the engine and you're good to go.

Also have the xD ecu installed on the firewall before the engine goes in
Thanks! Excellent news all around. I was especially happy to hear that the harness goes on before the engine goes in. Also, Adam did mention that a belt change/putting the belt on would be very difficult with the engine in place.

You mentioned using engine hooks once. Do you have any recommendation on hooks that would work well for this install? Our shop has an engine hoist but no leveler. I'll see about getting one of those.

I'm also wondering if replacing the water pump before installing the engine would be a good move. This engine has relatively low mileage so I would hope that there's still lots of life in that.
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:32 AM   #52
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Afaik we in the 2zr are not known as a weak spot. My engine had 87k km on it and I kept the original pump on the engine. I just checked to make sure there were no weapons hole leaks.

Putting a new belt on before install is also what I did. Like I said, the 2zr in the yaris is a tight fit width wise so anything on the passenger side will be a bear once the engine is in place.

I don't know if my build thread has part numbers or not for the engine hooks but I ordered the 2 hooks specific for the 2zr. I'd highly recommend spending the $25 they cost. The bolt holes are recessed so these hooks have welded on spacers so that nothing gets pinched by the hook/chain. You can probably use bracket holes with strong bolts if you want but this means removing something off the engine so that you can use the bolt hole and this means you then have to install said part back on once the engine is in place.

I used a leveler, not mandatory but it really helps when trying to line up the trans mount when putting the engine back in place
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:07 PM   #53
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Afaik we in the 2zr are not known as a weak spot. My engine had 87k km on it and I kept the original pump on the engine. I just checked to make sure there were no weapons hole leaks.

Putting a new belt on before install is also what I did. Like I said, the 2zr in the yaris is a tight fit width wise so anything on the passenger side will be a bear once the engine is in place.

I don't know if my build thread has part numbers or not for the engine hooks but I ordered the 2 hooks specific for the 2zr. I'd highly recommend spending the $25 they cost. The bolt holes are recessed so these hooks have welded on spacers so that nothing gets pinched by the hook/chain. You can probably use bracket holes with strong bolts if you want but this means removing something off the engine so that you can use the bolt hole and this means you then have to install said part back on once the engine is in place.

I used a leveler, not mandatory but it really helps when trying to line up the trans mount when putting the engine back in place
Thanks Trevor. I will search your thread just in case you listed the part # for the engine hook part numbers. I'll keep the original water pump. I'm going to order a belt - likely Bando or the Continental as I've had good luck with both.
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:07 PM   #54
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Bought the Magnaflow Midpipe. I found a Canadian distributor that was charging $433.00 CAD (10% discount) with free shipping to my door and everywhere else it was $482.00 USD. I lost out on the purchase of the 2008 OEM pipe and there are no more to be found. The other options were the Walker and Eastern Catalytic pipes and neither look that great (bad bends and crushes). And, neither came with the gaskets, so there's a little savings there.

Magnaflow Midpipe:

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/magna...d-2-25-od.html



Now all I have to do it hope and pray that the Magnaflow will hook up to my current muffler. I will save some money and come up with a better muffler solution at a later date.
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