DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation - Page 6 - Toyota Yaris Forums

jra · 07-01-2016, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jra

Would a 2015 five door L automatic U.S. Yaris only need the stalk and wiring to plug in to clock spring and horn? If so do you have parts for this?

Scott
Thanks for the parts you sent, took about 15 min. to install, works like it was factory installed.

Tomsyaris · 07-24-2016, 07:09 PM

Hi Scott I Sent a pm . Thanks

Sudspt · 06-22-2016, 07:41 PM

I have a question about my Yaris. I bought it in Las Vegas and I want to make sure that the ECU will tolerate the cruise control. It's a 2007 model. It says that it was manufactured in Japan, but it's a Toyota and that's where they're all manufactured, right? Just want to clarify that this method will work before I start rounding up the parts.

CTScott · 06-22-2016, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sudspt

I have a question about my Yaris. I bought it in Las Vegas and I want to make sure that the ECU will tolerate the cruise control. It's a 2007 model. It says that it was manufactured in Japan, but it's a Toyota and that's where they're all manufactured, right? Just want to clarify that this method will work before I start rounding up the parts.

Yes - For your car, as with all American market Yaris, cruise control will work.

Sudspt · 06-23-2016, 01:14 AM

Thanks! I will follow your pdf instructions and let you know how it goes! Appreciate it!

David C · 07-25-2016, 07:07 PM

Hi Scott, if I was to use a switch and LED to do a basic setup, could you pinpoint the essential wires ? Would a lighted 4 way switch work as a CC stalk and on/off indicator or do the CC indicator module would still be needed to act as a smart relay ? I have a '07 3dr LB, Canada. PM me the details if possible.

Thanks

bassmannate · 07-28-2016, 09:40 PM

Just used your guide to install a stalk and wiring. Worked great! The only thing I ran into was that I read the part about the indicator as "Yes: You'll need the indicator kit" or "No: You won't need the indicator kit" so I was a little disappointed when no light came on in the cluster but so happy to have cruise control on this car! Might have to get the indicator kit sometime just to have it in there.

bassmannate · 08-05-2016, 04:39 PM

Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great.

Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

CTScott · 08-05-2016, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great.

Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

Where did you get the stalk?

bassmannate · 08-06-2016, 07:01 AM

Amazon. I should have contacted you first but was trying to be sure to get it in before this trip and it was prime shipping. I've already contacted the seller to see if i can get a replacement for just the stalk since i don't want to pull all the wire out.

The good news is that if the schematics I've seen are correct, the on/off button is just a short to ground with no resistor. Worst case scenario, i mount a momentary switch to the dash and connect it across the leads coming from the back if the steering wheel.

By the way, are you still selling the indicator modules?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

CTScott · 08-06-2016, 07:38 AM

The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well.

I do still sell the indicator modules.

Per Olof · 07-27-2018, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well.

I do still sell the indicator modules.

Hello Im new in forum,I have Yaris G mod. 2014 5dor. aut. smart entry&start system and want to have CC. Im swedish but live in Thailand.How can I tjeck if it possible to put it in my car.The car seem to have a diffrent ECU (ECM) It spli to 2 units behind the glove compartment.If you know about this,can you sell me one to me ??

Sparty · 10-24-2018, 07:46 AM

Hi everyone,
I have a US Model, 07, M/T, 1.5L, 3 door hatch. I'm installing this CC solution and I'm at the point where I'm running the D3 connector to the ECM pin 40. Please see the pic below. Which wire and pin do I send to the ECM and which one do I ground? The picture of my Yaris is different then the pictures in the instructions from CTScott. Thanks!!

https://share.icloud.com/photos/04lH...ah7sf_DqrWtH0A

bassmannate · 08-06-2016, 08:08 AM

Yeah, it might just be a bad switch internally. The rest of the functions work fine.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 01:39 PM

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

David C · 08-09-2016, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

Try to read the resistance between the main chassis ground next to the battery and the battery terminal itself, then compare it to the reading you're getting between the ground connection you're using for the stalk and the battery terminal. Subtract the main ground to terminal value to it and that's how much resistance that you should try to reduce. I would assume the ECU has a direct wiring to the battery terminal clamp, but the manufacturer would take for account the resistance in chassis ground when setting the value range for the CC inputs, since the stalk would be connected to chassis (same connection as the horn by connector D3, right ?).

I did the readings on my own setup (I used 2x 2-way rocker switch and connecting my ground to the bolt behind the kick panel under the steering wheel) and had a lot of resistance using that ground point compared to the main chassis ground, but still I have flawless operation so far (installed it and been using it daily for 5 days now).

However I would really doubt that the switch internal resistance of less than 2 ohms would throw every off. It sounds more like a bad contact inside the ON/OFF switch, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use all the other function flawlessly.

CTScott · 08-09-2016, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmannate

Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

bassmannate · 08-09-2016, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

That is fine. There is about 30 ohms of tolerance for each of the switch modes.

Was the ECM pin a genuine one that seated properly in the ECM connector?

Pretty sure it seated properly. It felt like it clicked in there. I'll try to pull it out again tomorrow morning and make sure it seats correctly. I would think if that were the issue the rest of the functions wouldn't work right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-06-2016, 07:38 AM	#11
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	The on/off is just a switch to ground. I would check all of your connection points to make sure it isn't an intermittent connection. If the stalk is one of the Chinese clones, it could be a bad switch within it as well. I do still sell the indicator modules. __________________

10-24-2018, 07:46 AM	#13
Sparty Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Columbus Ohio Posts: 2	07 Yaris Cruise Help Hi everyone, I have a US Model, 07, M/T, 1.5L, 3 door hatch. I'm installing this CC solution and I'm at the point where I'm running the D3 connector to the ECM pin 40. Please see the pic below. Which wire and pin do I send to the ECM and which one do I ground? The picture of my Yaris is different then the pictures in the instructions from CTScott. Thanks!! https://share.icloud.com/photos/04lH...ah7sf_DqrWtH0A

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07-24-2016, 07:09 PM	#2
Tomsyaris I've made a post! Drives: 2010 yaris sedan Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Ontario Posts: 1	Hi Scott I Sent a pm . Thanks

06-22-2016, 07:41 PM	#3
Sudspt Drives: Yaris Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 2	I have a question about my Yaris. I bought it in Las Vegas and I want to make sure that the ECU will tolerate the cruise control. It's a 2007 model. It says that it was manufactured in Japan, but it's a Toyota and that's where they're all manufactured, right? Just want to clarify that this method will work before I start rounding up the parts.

06-23-2016, 01:14 AM	#5
Sudspt Drives: Yaris Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 2	Thanks! I will follow your pdf instructions and let you know how it goes! Appreciate it!

07-25-2016, 07:07 PM	#6
David C Drives: White '07 3dr LB Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Montreal Posts: 480	Hi Scott, if I was to use a switch and LED to do a basic setup, could you pinpoint the essential wires ? Would a lighted 4 way switch work as a CC stalk and on/off indicator or do the CC indicator module would still be needed to act as a smart relay ? I have a '07 3dr LB, Canada. PM me the details if possible. Thanks

07-28-2016, 09:40 PM	#7
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Just used your guide to install a stalk and wiring. Worked great! The only thing I ran into was that I read the part about the indicator as "Yes: You'll need the indicator kit" or "No: You won't need the indicator kit" so I was a little disappointed when no light came on in the cluster but so happy to have cruise control on this car! Might have to get the indicator kit sometime just to have it in there.

08-05-2016, 04:39 PM	#8
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Well, we're on our first road trip with the cruise control and it hasn't been completely smooth. The on/off button doesn't seem to work reliably the first time after starting the car. After you get it to come on the first time, it works great. Is this just a problem with the switch/stalk i got? Is the control just a resistor ladder and could i just install a momentary switch with a resistor across the leads? Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-06-2016, 07:01 AM	#10
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Amazon. I should have contacted you first but was trying to be sure to get it in before this trip and it was prime shipping. I've already contacted the seller to see if i can get a replacement for just the stalk since i don't want to pull all the wire out. The good news is that if the schematics I've seen are correct, the on/off button is just a short to ground with no resistor. Worst case scenario, i mount a momentary switch to the dash and connect it across the leads coming from the back if the steering wheel. By the way, are you still selling the indicator modules? Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-06-2016, 08:08 AM	#14
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Yeah, it might just be a bad switch internally. The rest of the functions work fine. Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

08-09-2016, 01:39 PM	#15
bassmannate Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Crystal Lake, il Posts: 24	Well, I got a chance to meter the switch finally. Getting 1.5-2 ohms when the on/off button is pressed. Not sure if that's so high that the ECU thinks that it's not ground. I suppose if there's any other resistance such as oxidation on one of the pins between the switch and the ECU it would bump that resistance up and it wouldn't know what to do with it.