DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step)

[CTScott]

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

[flutie98]

Originally Posted by CTScott

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by flutie98

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

[flutie98]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

Ill snap some pics when i get home from work. I tried all 4 orientations and the one that seats the most still is not fully in.

[Soylentglass]

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

[julienrl]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by julienrl

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

You can order it through your local dealer or from TRDsparks.com

[opt101]

I got my oem connector with lead on it yesterday (local dealer had a list of 14 and change, but was able to get 20% through my dealings with them through work), and thankfully saw the above posts on how to open the lock mech, worked like a charm, hopefully someone updates the how to to include this new info! Thanks again for all your help guys!

[par4j]

Just installed on my wife's 2007 Yaris... It worked first time... and i am not good with this type of stuff. Thanks again guys for all your hard work on this... Saved a bundle...

[Antipilor]

Hmm I got all done with it and I get nothing when I push any of my switches. However, I definately have power going to the switches and my ground seems to work just fine, however I didn't have the correct resistors so I tried to pair them to get in range and I have a strong feeling I misread one or simply added wrong. I'll order the correct resistors and replace the ones I have and see if it works. On the upside me and my dad did this over the weekend and my car still works perfectly.

[Taboolie]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the kit from trdsparks. Figured $200 is a heck of a lot cheaper then $450-500 from the dealer. Plus I'll get the nice stalk with an indicator light.

What pushed me over the edge was I took a close look at the instrument cluster and couldn't see a cruise indicator. '07 HB with power package :(

Plus I drove 500km on Sat and my foot and leg cramped up big time! Cruise it is! :)

My on and only concern is the location of the connector near the transmission the instructions refer to, I'm sure I'll find it eventually but right now I have NO idea where that thing is.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Taboolie

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the kit from trdsparks. Figured $200 is a heck of a lot cheaper then $450-500 from the dealer. Plus I'll get the nice stalk with an indicator light.

What pushed me over the edge was I took a close look at the instrument cluster and couldn't see a cruise indicator. '07 HB with power package :(

Plus I drove 500km on Sat and my foot and leg cramped up big time! Cruise it is! :)

My on and only concern is the location of the connector near the transmission the instructions refer to, I'm sure I'll find it eventually but right now I have NO idea where that thing is.

You must have bought the Rostra kit, if the instructions involve a connection at the transmission. The Rostra kit has a far more complicated set of instructions than our DIY method. The only gain with the Rostra kit is the indicator LED on the stalk.

As you noticed, the 07-08's don't have the cluster indicator. My Cruise Indicator Module that I mentioned above adds the indicator to 07-08's (and you place the indicator where you want it) with far less labor than installing the Rostra kit.

[nickhjort]

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by nickhjort

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

The quick press issue is due to switch deboucning. I found that the radio shack switches require almost 100ms of debouncing. With higher quality switches the debouncing can be significantly reduced.

I can't believe that the HIDs draw it down that much. You may want to consider a heftier battery or you might run into some problems. In doing some experimentation I found that the ECM becomes very flaky if the battery voltage sags below 9 volts.

[chanka]

Hi Scott,

If I don't have cruise control in my 08 yaris (M5) (New Zealand New) hatch how can I fit CC ?
Cheers.
Chanka

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by chanka

Hi Scott,

If I don't have cruise control in my 08 yaris (M5) (New Zealand New) hatch how can I fit CC ?
Cheers.
Chanka

For your car you would need a complete aftermarket system, since your ECM does not have the functionality built in.

[fascar228]

Hi All,

I have a 2007 Vitz JDM 1.0L can the Cruise control mod work for my vehicle....

[Taboolie]

Originally Posted by nickhjort

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

Ah you're right, I didn't consider that you could mount it in the instrument cluster and it be hidden. Looks pretty sweet btw.

I had some mental picture of some half ass LED sticking out of the dash somewhere. As it is my wife's worried I'm going to somehow mess up her car :)

Even with the LED kit you have, I'm still less comfortable taking apart trim pieces and the entire dash then routing some harnesses and tapping in to some wires under the steering column. I've had bad luck previously with plastics breaking.

The car is only 4 days old, to me at least, so mentally I'll just think it was another $200 for cruise control when I bought it. I'd have paid that.