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Old 08-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #55
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here is my datalogging?

outside air temperature was freakishly cold outside for this time of year
(15deg c / 59deg F) (during this trip the coolant temp never went above 63, but like I said it was freakishly cold for an Ottawa Summer day)

Driving water temp ( 61 deg c / 142 deg F) (85km/h - 53mph) (flat land / zero wind)

Intake air temp(while moving) ( 21 deg c / 69 deg F)
Intake air temp (stopped in traffic) (26 deg c / 79 deg F)


Driving pic (it was freakishly cold out)



In Light traffic (stopped for 1 minute, every 2 or 3 minutes)

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Old 08-14-2013, 12:51 PM   #56
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I think my "cold" coolant light goes off at 135°F so you aren't running much warmer than that.

I always thought that a performance T-stat was hotter (not colder). I know back in my dodge truck days, guys would put a 195°F T-stat in place of the 180. I honestly don't think it does much.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:08 PM   #57
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^ Maybe, but if he eliminates that as a cause by swapping back to stock, we can move on to the next possibility. Or, that IS the problem.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:16 PM   #58
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I would say that IS likely the problem. 142 F is still well within the pre-warmed-up temperature range.

It was 55F here this morning when I drove my kids less than 2 miles to the camp bus and by the end of mile 1 (mostly downhill) I was at 181F.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:39 PM   #59
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Next step = remove the colder thermostat - take some driving impressions and datalog the info.

It won't be 8 months (or never) ala "something big is coming", but it will have to wait till Friday night or the weekend because I'm busy tonight and tomorrow night.

Then, after the thermostat, if there isn't an improvement - the next thing will be to remove the Corolla TB (swap back to Stock tb on the Tooter) / then I guess the next thing after that will be the Factory Manifold etc...etc......

Only good thing about this process is that now I've done each part so recently that they stick in memory and therefore are pretty quick and easy to swap.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:30 PM   #60
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I would say that IS likely the problem. 142 F is still well within the pre-warmed-up temperature range.

It was 55F here this morning when I drove my kids less than 2 miles to the camp bus and by the end of mile 1 (mostly downhill) I was at 181F.
That's the prime directive for modern vehicle engines. Super quick warm up to operating temperature so as to meet government mandated emissions requirements. In warm California, my green light goes out before I get to the end of the driveway.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:39 PM   #61
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Sorry, I meant that increasing the temp probably doesn't help power. I actually agree that his car may be in a limp mode state given that he is probably running open loop and thus on a predetermined fuel map (really rich).

I am curious to see if changing the T-stat back fixes it.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:24 AM   #62
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Sorry, I meant that increasing the temp probably doesn't help power. I actually agree that his car may be in a limp mode state given that he is probably running open loop and thus on a predetermined fuel map (really rich).

I am curious to see if changing the T-stat back fixes it.
Curiously on the drive home last night it was much warmer outside, and the car was running "normal"(ish) temps in the 170-180 range at times and yet it was driving the exact same.

Looks like I'm taking the day off work tomorrow to stay home and try to get to the bottom of this

Will
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:14 AM   #63
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Curiously on the drive home last night it was much warmer outside, and the car was running "normal"(ish) temps in the 170-180 range at times and yet it was driving the exact same.

Looks like I'm taking the day off work tomorrow to stay home and try to get to the bottom of this

Will
I swapped the thermostat back to stock.

Sure enough the temps came way up (seems so weird to see temps in the 180 deg F range consistently)

The car behaves a bit better (the idle isn't as erratic) but otherwise its no faster or slower (feels the exact same)

Next step is to swap the TB and then the intake manifold.

Stay tuned.

Will
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:46 AM   #64
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normal temps, same behavior -- thermostat eliminated as the cause.
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:53 AM   #65
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I swapped the thermostat back to stock.

Sure enough the temps came way up (seems so weird to see temps in the 180 deg F range consistently)

The car behaves a bit better (the idle isn't as erratic) but otherwise its no faster or slower (feels the exact same)

Next step is to swap the TB and then the intake manifold.

Stay tuned.

Will
Don't forget to disconnect the battery cable so that the ECU can relearn the new operating parameters with the stock thermostat.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:00 PM   #66
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Don't forget to disconnect the battery cable so that the ECU can relearn the new operating parameters with the stock thermostat.
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The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will
Looks like he already did. Wouldn't hurt to try again tho.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #67
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Looks like he already did. Wouldn't hurt to try again tho.
I believe that quote is two weeks old and refers to when Will first installed everything including the low temp thermostat.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:16 PM   #68
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is it done yet?
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:32 PM   #69
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is it done yet?

No

I've been swamped with other stuff and I've only driven the car twice in the last week and a half (let alone have time to work on it)

Right now its just sitting in the garage (where it is most of the time) waiting for some more investigation work.

Like I did with the Thermostat several weeks back..................I've taken this Friday off so that hopefully I can swap the Throttle body and then the Intake manifold and see whats going on.

I'm also thinking of maybe getting the exact header that Tooter has, and also installing my exhaust (have full exhaust just waiting to be installed). That way when I go and Dyno it, I should have a pretty good comparison against Tooter because I'd have almost the identical setup at that point (plus lighter wheels and a pulley's)

I'll of course update when I swap the T-Body etc.....
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:40 PM   #70
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No

I've been swamped with other stuff and I've only driven the car twice in the last week and a half (let alone have time to work on it)

Right now its just sitting in the garage (where it is most of the time) waiting for some more investigation work.

Like I did with the Thermostat several weeks back..................I've taken this Friday off so that hopefully I can swap the Throttle body and then the Intake manifold and see whats going on.

I'm also thinking of maybe getting the exact header that Tooter has, and also installing my exhaust (have full exhaust just waiting to be installed). That way when I go and Dyno it, I should have a pretty good comparison against Tooter because I'd have almost the identical setup at that point (plus lighter wheels and a pulley's)

I'll of course update when I swap the T-Body etc.....
If you want an accurate apples to apples comparison, I'm not running a full exhaust, and only have a catback. Everything else between the catback and the header is all stock. I'd advise not making any more new changes, and backtracking to remove the 1ZZ throttle body and then the tooter intake manifold.

And if you're already running a DC header, I wouldn't waste any money on a Weapon R as they're both so short I don't believe that there is that much difference in performance between them.

It's tough tracking down the problem with so many changes all done at the same time. And if for any reason you're not totally satisfied with the manifold, please don't hesitate to return it clean and undamaged for an immediate full refund of your purchase price. I just raised my prices and will simply bead blast it again and resell it.

Greg
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:11 PM   #71
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I'm not running a full exhaust, and only have a catback.
I didn't know you installed a midpipe section, tooter; or do you mean instead that you have an axle-back exhaust?
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #72
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two different cars, two different dynos, two different days. Even with identical mods, they won't be comparable except in the most general way.
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