Ok, here is my idea... Input appreciated!

[ddongbap]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

Well if a supercharger is in the future, then I take back my comment about not getting a headerback exhaust. However, I wouldn't get it until after you have the S/C on or sometime soon before you put the S/C on. You wouldn't want to be driving around with 2.25" headerback exhaust and not have the S/C on. You will have no torque AT ALL! hehe

Well, that'll only be true on the low end. When top end kicks in, then it'll be better.

[PETERPOOP]

Yes, but it is no fun at all. Trust me. Before I had my blitz wired to be "ON" all the time, I would sometimes drive with the compressor off. That thing had no torque and was somewhat embarrasing to drive. You would have to give it more gas to get it moving and then that would make your muffler louder, yet you weren't moving anywhere. hehe

[Yoda]

hope this helps. it was 98* outside when i did this. The blue line is from yesterday. the yellow is from January (88* then)and before i had the res-back.
You would think i would have gained power but seems i have lost quite a bit. not sure whats the cause. Was at least expecting to gain a few from the res-back. Something is off somewhere.
I just changed my oil right before i went on the dyno tho so that maybe it but idk. I use to use valvoline synthetic, but switched to mobile 1 full synthetic. And also switch my octane to 87 rather than the 93 i use.

Mod List
AFE Intake
NST Crank Pulley
DC Header
TRD Axle back Exhaust With mandrel bent to resonator
1ZZ TB

I am running a bit lean. There is more power to be had if i got a tune but probably not worth it. Hope this helps paint a picture of what to expect.
Any questions hit me up....

[PETERPOOP]

hard to compare it when those are done so far apart and different weather conditions. i know you couldn't, but it would have been ideal to been able to do those back to back ( if you could install a resback exhaust with the snap of the finger ).

[Yoda]

true but it still should have gained something rather than losing ~2whp

[sito]

Hi guys,

I just swapped the 1zzfe throttle body without the changing the chip and adjusting the idle screw...

No CEL for my car yet.. and the response is great....

But when i start my car this morning, the rpm shoots up to 2500 and after 2 mins, returns to 800... And when i turn on the aircon, the rpm shoots up to 1800 when the fan kicks in, and drops to 1000 when the fan stopped. These symptoms happen when my car is in stationary mode (or gear engages in P mode). Other than that, when i was driving in the city or highway, no other abnormalities found.

I was wondering is there anyone who do the mod faces the same problem as me? I'm not sure whether my pivot 3 drive (throttle controller) causes this? Cos my current pivot 3 drive is using harness for 1nzfe, but after the tb swap, i'm not too sure do i need to change the harness.

Hope you guys can help.
Thanks!!!

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by sito

Hi guys,

I just swapped the 1zzfe throttle body without the changing the chip and adjusting the idle screw...

No CEL for my car yet.. and the response is great....

But when i start my car this morning, the rpm shoots up to 2500 and after 2 mins, returns to 800... And when i turn on the aircon, the rpm shoots up to 1800 when the fan kicks in, and drops to 1000 when the fan stopped. These symptoms happen when my car is in stationary mode (or gear engages in P mode). Other than that, when i was driving in the city or highway, no other abnormalities found.

I was wondering is there anyone who do the mod faces the same problem as me? I'm not sure whether my pivot 3 drive (throttle controller) causes this? Cos my current pivot 3 drive is using harness for 1nzfe, but after the tb swap, i'm not too sure do i need to change the harness.

Hope you guys can help.
Thanks!!!

It's simply because the throttle body is designed to work with a bigger motor. When the ECU tells it to open to start the car, or that the A/C has turned on, it moves the throttle the same amount as the 1NZ tb, but because the opening is bigger, it lets more air in causing the higher idle.

[sito]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

It's simply because the throttle body is designed to work with a bigger motor. When the ECU tells it to open to start the car, or that the A/C has turned on, it moves the throttle the same amount as the 1NZ tb, but because the opening is bigger, it lets more air in causing the higher idle.

Thanks bro....

Do i need to swap the chip or adjust the idle screw, even though i have no CEL?

Sorry to bother you guys again... what's the reason for the chip swapping?

Thanks everyone....

[Astroman]

So far over 3k miles on the TB swap and no problems. Weathers been getting colder so will see how that goes.