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Old 11-19-2013, 01:56 AM   #20
juicyjosh
 
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Drives: 2012 Yaris SE MT
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 57
Compared to 16s, 17s require more energy to spin and stop, making the car even slower than it already is. Consider that the majority of the wheels' weight is on the outermost part (i.e. circumference) of the wheel. This means that even a 1- or 2- lb. difference is magnified since it's located outside of a larger radius. Conversely, the same wheel in a 16" diameter is lighter with all of its weight located inside of a smaller radius.

As the yarisworld knows, the Yaris isn't known for its incredible tire-melting torque (or reasonable throttle response, or logical dimensions, or a steering wheel that telescopes, or adequate-length front suspension arms, or a rear anti-roll bar, or a clutch that can go more than 4000 miles without juddering, or having all the jacking tools in one place in the car, or A/C that doesn't smell like a spore-releasing fungal megacolony, or anything significantly improved since 2007, or not looking like a turtle, albeit not as fast), so putting heavy metal at all four corners is a step backwards in performance. It's also doubtful that you can achieve the same tire circumference using 17" wheels; The tires will be larger than OEM, effectively making all the gears taller, and making the car accelerate slower at all speeds, all the time. And the absolute last thing the Yaris needs is higher gearing. Plus the tiny, punishingly stiff sidewall of 17" tires that resemble rubber bands, combined with the Yaris' short wheelbase and short front suspension arms, will make the car even more uncomfortable over road bumps and undulations than it is in stock form, with your being more susceptible to breaking a steel belt over potholes and enjoying more trips to the shop for front end alignments.

But it's your car.

Last edited by juicyjosh; 11-19-2013 at 02:06 AM.
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