My Long Tube header build - Page 5 - Toyota Yaris Forums

xnamerxx · 11-28-2012, 12:27 AM

Well the primaries are all welded up so I'm stuck waiting for my new flange to be made but once I get that piece it'll be finished quickly.

xnamerxx · 11-28-2012, 12:23 PM

So nice and purdy

tooter · 11-28-2012, 01:44 PM

When you weld stainless steel, does the electric welder need to use any gas?

xnamerxx · 11-28-2012, 01:51 PM

I can't directly comment since I'm a pretty terrible welder but SS requires a different kind of gas and filler material.

I guess it depends on if you're using a Flux weld material or MIG/TIG welding. If its MIG or TIG you need gas otherwise it'll splatter and sugar really bad plus just weld like crap.

I think this might be helpful (http://www.brazing.com/techguide/pro.../stainless.asp)

Viperoni · 11-28-2012, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

So nice and purdy

Lookin good!

xnamerxx · 11-30-2012, 11:06 PM

Here are my baseline numbers. The car is stock aside from a DC header, MI pulley, and a K&N air filter.

I'm guessing Toyota breathed a little extra magic on my car when it was made.

Also an acceleration run in 2nd gear from 12-62 mph. Just to get an idea of vehicle acceleration, another thing to add aside from dyno numbers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dquJk...&feature=g-upl

Bluevitz-rs · 11-30-2012, 11:16 PM

Looks like they did a 2nd gear pull. Makes the numbers inflated, but it's only for comparison. As long as you use the same dyno.

xnamerxx · 11-30-2012, 11:25 PM

Yeah, Church's is known to dyno high as well, I think he uses a gear correction for torque to negate which gear the pull was made. The numbers just seemed high to me even if I took 15% off.

I got a kick out of it because I was making the same amount of power as Jason up until his cams started doing their thing.

BTW my motor has 100k on the clock so it shows how impressive these engines are even after a long life of use.

Jason@SportsCar · 11-30-2012, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

Yeah, Church's is known to dyno high as well, I think he uses a gear correction for torque to negate which gear the pull was made. The numbers just seemed high to me even if I took 15% off.

I got a kick out of it because I was making the same amount of power as Jason up until his cams started doing their thing.

BTW my motor has 100k on the clock so it shows how impressive these engines are even after a long life of use.

I was 132hp on that dyno with a stock motor, just had an ECU on you. My pulls were in 3rd gear.

xnamerxx · 11-30-2012, 11:38 PM

Hmm, he showed me a side by side and there was a big boost at 5k or so, and he said it was because of the aftermarket cam.

Jason@SportsCar · 11-30-2012, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

Hmm, he showed me a side by side and there was a big boost at 5k or so, and he said it was because of the aftermarket cam.

Not sure what he showed you, but it had to be old if the number was that low. Likely from when we first got the car and had the camcon. And none of the cams have made low end, they all lost tq, they dont start to make power till way up high.

Bluevitz-rs · 12-05-2012, 12:03 AM

What we're all trying to get at is that we hope it works, but would hate to see it crack because of how you designed it without any flex in it.

On that note have you considered the use of spring clamped slip joints? Laminar flow but will allow the pipes to move should they need to.

cali yaris · 12-05-2012, 11:44 AM

^ +1.

The TRD Trans mount is stiffer and does more to control engine movement than the NITTO torque damper (which does work, just to a lesser degree).

BEEF · 12-05-2012, 12:08 PM

is this going to delete the cat and O2 sensor or just relocate it farther down the path? sorry, I am a latecomer.

I do like the idea of the longtube header. can't wait to see the finished product and dyno sheet.

xnamerxx · 12-05-2012, 12:56 PM

+2^ Jason

Cali do you know the durometer of the rubber used in the TRD mount?

The rules require I run a catalyst so I will have to keep that. I will be modifying my existing race mid-pipe for this exhaust system so it will accept the new collector location, but I will likely have to redesign that as there is an issue with length. The mid pipe is actually one of the bigger issues I'm still battling, there's a problem unique to this engine design that create a really bad off throttle drone.

The rear o2 will be kept since there isn't a reason to remove it, I may just weld a new bung onto the rear of the cat or use an CEL eliminator I'll probably try both and see which one is easier to keep in the long run.

cali yaris · 12-05-2012, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Cali do you know the durometer of the rubber used in the TRD mount?

I've not been able to find that information. So the answer so far is "Stiffer."

I have the TRD engine mounts + trans mount and my motor doesn't move much at all any more. Nice and loud in the cabin too.

Viperoni · 12-05-2012, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I have the TRD engine mounts + trans mount and my motor doesn't move much at all any more. Nice and loud in the cabin too.

I can definitely vouch for the Energy poly motor+tranny mounts doing exactly the same thing lol
The car is loud and whole car vibrates

xnamerxx · 12-07-2012, 12:06 AM

well no pictures but everything has been tacked together...the secondaries were way more difficult than I was expecting. All that's left is to burn everything together and my header will be done.

12-05-2012, 11:44 AM	#13
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	^ +1. The TRD Trans mount is stiffer and does more to control engine movement than the NITTO torque damper (which does work, just to a lesser degree). __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

12-05-2012, 12:08 PM	#14
BEEF View User's Garage Drives: 2008 yaris 3d Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: north carolina Posts: 732	is this going to delete the cat and O2 sensor or just relocate it farther down the path? sorry, I am a latecomer. I do like the idea of the longtube header. can't wait to see the finished product and dyno sheet. __________________ Be the change you wish to see in the world -Mahatma Gandhi-

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11-28-2012, 12:27 AM	#1
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Well the primaries are all welded up so I'm stuck waiting for my new flange to be made but once I get that piece it'll be finished quickly.

11-28-2012, 12:23 PM	#2
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	So nice and purdy

11-28-2012, 01:44 PM	#3
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,961	When you weld stainless steel, does the electric welder need to use any gas?

11-28-2012, 01:51 PM	#4
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	I can't directly comment since I'm a pretty terrible welder but SS requires a different kind of gas and filler material. I guess it depends on if you're using a Flux weld material or MIG/TIG welding. If its MIG or TIG you need gas otherwise it'll splatter and sugar really bad plus just weld like crap. I think this might be helpful (http://www.brazing.com/techguide/pro.../stainless.asp)

11-30-2012, 11:06 PM	#6
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Here are my baseline numbers. The car is stock aside from a DC header, MI pulley, and a K&N air filter. I'm guessing Toyota breathed a little extra magic on my car when it was made. Also an acceleration run in 2nd gear from 12-62 mph. Just to get an idea of vehicle acceleration, another thing to add aside from dyno numbers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dquJk...&feature=g-upl

11-30-2012, 11:16 PM	#7
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Looks like they did a 2nd gear pull. Makes the numbers inflated, but it's only for comparison. As long as you use the same dyno.

11-30-2012, 11:25 PM	#8
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Yeah, Church's is known to dyno high as well, I think he uses a gear correction for torque to negate which gear the pull was made. The numbers just seemed high to me even if I took 15% off. I got a kick out of it because I was making the same amount of power as Jason up until his cams started doing their thing. BTW my motor has 100k on the clock so it shows how impressive these engines are even after a long life of use.

11-30-2012, 11:38 PM	#10
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Hmm, he showed me a side by side and there was a big boost at 5k or so, and he said it was because of the aftermarket cam.

12-05-2012, 12:03 AM	#12
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	What we're all trying to get at is that we hope it works, but would hate to see it crack because of how you designed it without any flex in it. On that note have you considered the use of spring clamped slip joints? Laminar flow but will allow the pipes to move should they need to.

12-05-2012, 12:56 PM	#15
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	+2^ Jason Cali do you know the durometer of the rubber used in the TRD mount? The rules require I run a catalyst so I will have to keep that. I will be modifying my existing race mid-pipe for this exhaust system so it will accept the new collector location, but I will likely have to redesign that as there is an issue with length. The mid pipe is actually one of the bigger issues I'm still battling, there's a problem unique to this engine design that create a really bad off throttle drone. The rear o2 will be kept since there isn't a reason to remove it, I may just weld a new bung onto the rear of the cat or use an CEL eliminator I'll probably try both and see which one is easier to keep in the long run.

12-07-2012, 12:06 AM	#18
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	well no pictures but everything has been tacked together...the secondaries were way more difficult than I was expecting. All that's left is to burn everything together and my header will be done.