Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[Tanes70]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. The TVIP OEM Alarm has a 36 pin connector:

Attachment 31700


Pin 12 (white/light blue wire) goes to a starter cut relay, so you will need to follow that wire to the starter cut relay, and tap the Black Wire coming off of that relay with your start wire. On a non-alarm car that would be the black wires on the ignition switch connector.

Pin 9 (orange wire) is the ignition switch power input to the TVIP, so if it actually needs the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) connection, that's where it would be done.


The key sense wire is the yellow wire on the two pin connector that is near the face of the keyswitch.

Where is this connector located?

[jroy]

The wiring diagram I found said the "Key Sense" wire is yellow on the ignition harness but the only yellow wire is the +12V? There is another yellow wire coming off the side of the ignition but its on a different plug.

[jroy]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by jroy

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.

[theFlash]

First I have to say thanks to CTScott for the guide. Pictures and accurate location, plug and wire made it so much easier than the usual "installer-speak", just listing wire color.

I just installed a Hornet (DEI) remote starter/alarm/keyless entry combination in a 2007 Yaris for a family member that had power locks standard, but no remote. It went pretty smoothly but I thought I'd add my thoughts incase someone searches for this in the future.

Obviously, I had to find additional wiring information due to the alarm components not being covered in the guide. Most was straight forward, but I had to search 10+ threads for the domelight wire as I found it listed as "fusebox, pink wire". Well there's probably more than 10 pink wires in that location. For the record it's the pink (-) in a six pin plug, with only a blue (+) and a white/black stripe occupying the plug. See pic here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...e+light&page=3

Other items were how to take some things apart. Plastic is easy to break, so I wasted time searching multiple threads for the correct way to take things out. I hadn't worked on a Toyota in years and amazed that a lot of things just snap together. But knowing exactly how saves fiddling time.

Glovebox: slide small rod off on lower right-hand side and then just squeeze the sides and pull-out one side, then the other.
Lower steering column shroud: 2 screws obscured by steering wheel, 1 screw underneath right of column height adjustment. Then squeeze sides of lowershroud (there are 2 clips on either side). I made the mistake of sticking my hand underneath and trying to flick the tab off on one side. It broke off, fixed with glue, but was needless.
Small pull out drawer in front of fuse box: squeeze and pull out one side, then other.

The door sill is only held in by clips, just pull up. This allows you to remove the driver's side kick panel to get to wiring for keyless entry. Kick panel has a clip on it's left side and a bolt on the right side. I just pulled on the left and then rotated it out of the way.

For console, just pull lower center colsole panel (panel below hvac controls). Then pull the larger piece around the gear-shift plate. I didn't need to go any further than this for console.

One other item that sucked my time was finding a suitable spot to get wires from the engine bay to the cabin. While most keyless remotes have one 12+ contant power requirement, my combo unit had a "relay" satellite that required two 12 + constant power, so I had to run the second direct to the battery, plus there's the hood pin switch (grounds when hood up, can't start or sets off alarm) and siren. There's an excellent spot on the passenger side, very high up on the firewall partially obscured by wire looms. It's a hole with a rubber plug. I drilled the plug which became a grommet. This is why I had to remove the glove box. Be carefull to drill straight or more towards the passenger side as there's HVAC pipes very close on the driver's side of the hole in the cabin.

Other than that, there were just a few things with the unit I bought, such as programming the unit to do a double (-) pulse for opening all doors. Initially it would only open and lock the driver's door.

I would also say that if it's your first time doing this (as it was for me), take it easy and do it in two days. I rushed it in 1 day, finished at about 2 am and although satisfying to test it out and have it work, I paid for it the next day. After soldering, taping, contorting, I over-exerted myself. I woke up at 4 am with pain bad enough in my right arm to obviously wake me up, lol. A couple ice-packs later and I could actually sleep. So don't do as I did and do what I say instead...lol.

[Skylinecar1982]

I have a 09 yaris s with immobilizer and factory keyless. I am trying to install a 1155tl but am having two problems.

One I can't find a negative pulse trigger from the factory keyless?? or postive.

And do I have to use the key to unlock the door once remote started???


Thanks
mark

[CTScott]

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

[tchwue]

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tchwue

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

If you did, then ON and ACC would act the same when you turn the key.

[tchwue]

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tchwue

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

[tchwue]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

ok, thanks man...

[adam1981]

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter: