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Old 10-07-2018, 08:31 PM   #1
atomic_hoji
 
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Great progress man!

That's a nice looking engine, and your wiring is awesome! I would like to say that I've wrapped and completed mine that nicely .... but I can't - still too 'temporary' hah.

You must be getting really excited - or really anxious - or both.. lol

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Old 10-08-2018, 07:45 AM   #2
06YarisRS
 
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Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
Great progress man!

That's a nice looking engine, and your wiring is awesome! I would like to say that I've wrapped and completed mine that nicely .... but I can't - still too 'temporary' hah.

You must be getting really excited - or really anxious - or both.. lol

-- Adam
Hey Adam. I've been popping in and out of your swap thread, and man, I have to say I thoroughly admire your skill, knowledge and tenacity. I'd probably have given up long ago. My swap sounds like an oil change in comparison. I guess everything is relative (project complexity/mechanical experience). Haha.

And, yes, I am getting both excited and anxious. Unfortunately next weekend is a complete bust: 2 b-Day parties, a wedding out of town and 2 hockey practices. Thank god my wife is good with scheduling/time management!


Best of luck with your project! You will be the first person ever to pull this off, correct? It will be a glorious feeling when you're done, and cause for much celebration.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Hey Adam. I've been popping in and out of your swap thread, and man, I have to say I thoroughly admire your skill, knowledge and tenacity. I'd probably have given up long ago.
...
lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now..

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Midpipe and Other Parts
Adam was right. This pipe starts out huge and then tapers down to 1 1/2" after the resonator. It is what it is. Hopefully the flow won't be restricted too much. As much as I hate the thought of it I'm tempted to gut the cats!
...
That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup.

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops.

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

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Old 10-19-2018, 08:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
lol - I appreciate the compliment, thanks. But then, if I was that clever, I'd have sorted it out by now..



That looks (and sound by description) similar to the Walker pipe.. it functions, I just ended up monkey'ing with it more than I wanted to and am not a fan of the sound - but, depending on your preference, it might float your boat. Sounds like the local shop has the potential to do a nice setup for something decent. At least the back-end will be a smexy dual pipe setup.

Quick note (catching up.. lol) re: anti-seize - just remember that torque specs are for clean, dry threads (unless otherwise noted, e.g. cylinder head bolts often list as with oil). When you gob anti-seize all over the threads you're reducing the thread friction, and especially putting a steel bolt into an aluminium block.. I've been fortunate that a little dab and a gentle torque I've never buggered anything up, but I have seen the result and it's no fun to resolve that mess.

Might sound ridiculous and seem obvious, but did you count the ribs on the pulley of the A/C compressor? Guess how I know that when you ask for an A/C compressor for 2ZR and they give you one from a (10th?) gen. Corolla and it doesn't seem to jive that it came from a 2AZ model... ooops.

Looks like you're making awesome progress! Still diving into it this weekend?

-- Adam
Adam!


Thanks for the guidance. I'm hoping that between the midpipe I got and the exhaust guy, I come up with a decent solution. I think the exhaust should look great, but my fear is the dreaded drone at highway speeds. Hopefully the pipe with 2 cats and the resonator will combat that.

I can only imagine how troublesome it would be to try to tap stripped threads in an aluminum block as a result of over torquing with a lubricant on the threads. I'll go a little easier on the torque for sure, and no doubt I've gone a little heavy on the anti-seize. At least I know which bolts I've torqued and knowing me, I'll likely check them all again after some driving time. But, thanks for that reminder, for sure.

Haha, going out to the garage in a few minutes to check the number of ribs on the pulley. I did score some M8x1.25 x 80mm bolts today and started to attach the compressor when I was summoned by wifey to go to hockey practice.

Looks like next weekend for the swap. I have one of our students, who's very diligent and careful when working on cars, interested in coming by next Saturday to help me put the engine in. I'll start the disassembly though through the week.

Thanks again for all your help. You can't imagine how valuable the help that I've gotten from you guys has been.

EDIT: Well, the compressor pulley has the right number of ribs and the belt I got is the right one. Tensioning mechanism works great. I'll back it off until is squeaks a bit then tighten it a bit. I imagine there's a certain amount of deflection under a certain pressure to be in spec, but I probably won't get that technical.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-19-2018 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:34 PM   #5
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I don't remember much of hand about the speedo wires but I di remember not feeling confident about them. Once I had looked at the 1nz harness when th engine and trans were out and saw what connectors went where it dawned on me.

Iirc I just opened up the harness and removed the wires and connector from the 1nz and moved it to the 2zr. That's the one benefit of removing the engine and trans together is that you can see where everything goes to on the 1nz harness.

And definitely remove the whole front end as well as the hood. I thought about keeping the front end on but with it removed there so much room to slide the engine in instead if having to lift it and drop it into place in a narrow bay.

The front end is super straightforward to remove as you go. You won't need a guide it will all be right there when you start removing things.
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Old 10-08-2018, 08:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I don't remember much of hand about the speedo wires but I di remember not feeling confident about them. Once I had looked at the 1nz harness when th engine and trans were out and saw what connectors went where it dawned on me.

Iirc I just opened up the harness and removed the wires and connector from the 1nz and moved it to the 2zr. That's the one benefit of removing the engine and trans together is that you can see where everything goes to on the 1nz harness.

And definitely remove the whole front end as well as the hood. I thought about keeping the front end on but with it removed there so much room to slide the engine in instead if having to lift it and drop it into place in a narrow bay.

The front end is super straightforward to remove as you go. You won't need a guide it will all be right there when you start removing things.
Thanks very much, Trevor. I will definitely remove the front end. When you scavenged the speed sensor wires from the 1NZ harness, you take the terminals out of the opposite end of the connector (not the CA2 end), run them through the xD split loom, then insert the opposite end terminals into the appropriate place in the corresponding xD CA2 connector as per my pic below? I'm hoping to leave my Yaris harness intact, but maybe this is not feasible. I would probably have to buy terminal ends.

Here is a pic. I know where to put the wires in the xD CA2 connector. Just not sure where the wires in the 1NZ harness connect to on the other end. Do these 3 wires go to different plugs on the xD harness? Sorry for my lack of understanding.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-08-2018 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:45 PM   #7
atomic_hoji
 
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Oh - speaking of removing the front end. If you don't have some already, the plastic interior trim / body panel tools. I picked this set up from Princess Auto, they worked a treat.. https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ls/A-p8424624e

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Old 10-08-2018, 12:23 PM   #8
tmontague
 
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I honestly don't remember I'll have to go through my build thread and see if I put any info there about it. I just remember having the same question as you but once I saw what the 1nz harness had that the 2zr didn't going to the trans, it became clear what had to be swapped. I never ordered any pins I just removed them from the connectors and moved them if I needed to.

Toyota pins and connectors are very hard to come by. This is why I am keeping my 1nz harness in storage in case I never need a connector.
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Old 10-08-2018, 02:13 PM   #9
06YarisRS
 
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I honestly don't remember I'll have to go through my build thread and see if I put any info there about it. I just remember having the same question as you but once I saw what the 1nz harness had that the 2zr didn't going to the trans, it became clear what had to be swapped. I never ordered any pins I just removed them from the connectors and moved them if I needed to.

Toyota pins and connectors are very hard to come by. This is why I am keeping my 1nz harness in storage in case I never need a connector.
Thanks Trevor. I'm sure it will make sense when I go to do it. Where the pins go is not an issue. Where they come from is eluding me atm.

EDIT: I am going to review this thread in detail. It looks like it contains the answers I need:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...light=2Zr+swap

I picked up the xD bracket that mounts to the timing cover and installed it. Pics are in post #84, page 5. I took your advice, lol, but I may be overdosing the Permatex
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Old 10-08-2018, 06:55 PM   #10
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Just noticed your pic a while back in which you tout 'lots of anti-sieze'. You sure that's what it is? I'm used to anti-sieze being coppery colour. What you have there looks blue to me which is the colour I associate with locktite.

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Old 10-08-2018, 07:03 PM   #11
06YarisRS
 
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Just noticed your pic a while back in which you tout 'lots of anti-sieze'. You sure that's what it is? I'm used to anti-sieze being coppery colour. What you have there looks blue to me which is the colour I associate with locktite.

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Hey WeeYari. Here is the product I'm using. It's silver. Might just have been the lighting making it look blue.

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Old 10-08-2018, 06:57 PM   #12
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Wiring Harness Installed...Well, Sort of...

I started out removing one connector at a time from the Corolla harness and replacing it with the corresponding connector from the xD harness. That worked for about 1/2 of the engine. Then I simply had to remove the rest of the Corolla harness as it was getting too complicated and it was in the way. The plastic retaining clips that hold the harness to the engine did not always line up. So, I'm concerned about securing the harness everywhere it needs to be to avoid rubbing/chaffing etc. I may - in some places, have to use heavy zip ties.

As far as connectors go, I'm making two assumptions. 1) A connector will not plug in unless it is the correct plug. 2) A connector will only plug in if it reaches.

The most confusing parts was the flexplate end of the engine. I'm not sure I got it attached as it's supposed to be. There are a few extra plugs on my harness that I'm not sure where they go. Presumeably they connect to non engine connectors.

If anyone sees anything that looks wrong, please let me know.







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Old 10-08-2018, 07:08 PM   #13
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Cool. I was just picturing you following Trevor's advice to lather every bolt with the stuff and then at some future point uttering 'son of a bitch, that mother is tight!' ;)

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Old 10-08-2018, 08:03 PM   #14
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Hehehe that would be an issue. I used to use silver and that got used to and I received a free large bottle of copper anti seize. Have used tha w/ no issues. As long as its not loctite you are good to go
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Old 10-08-2018, 08:34 PM   #15
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A Breakthrough!

After straining by brain over this speed sensor issue, I re-read and re-read brushforhire's swap thread. I then went out to my '08 and found that pesky speed sensor way way back and way down on top of the trans. Sure the neighbours were laughing - me out there with my phone light practically falling into the engine bay.

Anyway. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to take the whole wire bit with the connector and incorporate it into the harness, running the wires up to CA2 pins 11, 12 and 13. I think where I was hanging up on this was that I thought that the 3 wires had to go into a connector that was already present in the xD harness. It's more of and add-on wire, per se.

Rather than split the harness open, I may run a small loom alongside, ziptie it and fully tape over it.

Again, let me know if I'm barking up the wrong tree. And Trevor, yes, I'm sure it would have been immediately apparent if I had the Yaris engine out! Haha.

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Old 10-09-2018, 10:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Rather than split the harness open, I may run a small loom alongside, ziptie it and fully tape over it.
This is what I did.

What did you end up doing for your MAF power wire?
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:44 AM   #17
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This is what I did.

What did you end up doing for your MAF power wire?
I split the short section of harness needed and ran a wire from B+ pin 3 in the MAF connector out the end by the fusebox plug (CA2). I picked up a mini add-a-fuse and will do the same as you guys - plug into an ACC location.

Pics are back one page (post #76) if you're interested.

Thanks!

BTW, my midpipe arrived today. Have to call them and see if it's one piece or two. That will determine if I take the van or the car to get it.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:13 PM   #18
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I re read my thread and realised that I never posted about it, it must have been in the thread you had read only.

Iirc I think I ended up pulling the pins and 3 wires I needed and added then to the xd harness. The one end of the wire go to the connector st the trans but the other end simply goes to knead of the small white connectors that attaches to the fuse box. This is what dawned on me when I was comparing both harnesses. I thought it went to the ecu but it simple grabs power/signal from the fuse box so it it a short piece of wire and really quick and easy to add to the xd harness without undoing the whole harness.
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