Big rust hole at rear control arm - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

tarkus · 02-21-2017, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmontague

This blows me away, after seeing my 9 year old car driven in similar conditions and how little rust it has,

Yes, the same for my rust-free 11 year old Yaris.

My previous 10 year old Echo only had one minor rust spot just above a rear wheel, that appeared to be from a poorly done previous body repair. I got it redone properly for $400. Basically, these cars are known for not rusting, as with most Toyotas.

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

shepd · 02-22-2017, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Details please.

Parts are from RockAuto:

Catalytic Converter (48 State): EASTERN CATALYTIC 40845 ECO III
Includes downpipe gasket and muffler gasket. Includes hardware (spring/bolt/nuts) for the downpipe. Includes clamp for catback pipe. I am also throwing in an extra spring/bolt/nut kit for the muffler section. Fits 07 - 11 Yaris Hatchback.

I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.

I figure $300 for the catalytic converter and associated parts, and $50 for the muffler and associated parts. Brand new in box. If you are interested, make an offer. :)

I drive from Kitchener to Pearson Airport every day for work so if you're on the 401 in that area I can arrange to drop it off. Or if you're nearby Kitchener or Pearson Airport, maybe I can deliver it.

WeeYari · 02-22-2017, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shepd

I also have a Walker Muffler (can't remember the number, but it's the one that does NOT look like OEM but fits just fine--actually bought that from HotSpot) + bolts/spring/nut kit + muffler gasket + downpipe gasket to sell.

Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.

shepd · 02-22-2017, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeeYari

Possibly interested. When I switch over to my Medalion in the spring I'll be able to inspect my stock pumpkin again. When it went on last fall, I figured one of the hangers wasn't going to last much longer.

I'm 2km from the 401/Winston Churchill exchange.

No problem. PM me once you've checked and you are certain you want it and we can arrange for me to drop it off. :) Would be around 6:00 - 7:00 pm depending on traffic.

06YarisRS · 08-27-2020, 09:44 PM

Reviving an old thread

I am doing this because it is my belief that this common issue on Yaris hatchbacks does not necessarily have to mean a death sentence for the car. Lately, I have seen more and more failed inspection Yaris Hatchbacks coming up for sale. Most are 06 and 07 models, but we know that this 'design flaw' (more on that in a minute) runs through to 2011. The term 'design flaw' was not my term, but that of a friend who has years and years of experience with many different Toyota models, including the Yaris. He too believes that with the right repairs, that these Yari can live on, and on and on. I expect that Yari in more forgiving climates (those in which road salt or other de-icers are not used) may not suffer this issue - at least for a much longer time.

The red 2007 Yaris that I just bought has the same corrosion and decay just inboard of the rear axle bushing mount. I have discovered the following:

- the pocket (large cavity) into which the bushing mount is molded fills with sand, dirt, other debris, and, of course water. This soggy mess quickly corrodes the thin metal, resulting in a hole in the lowest section, where moisture will pool. This mess builds up and makes its way out toward the dogleg and lower aft rocker panel areas.

- If caught early enough (as in my 2006 RS), oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removeable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody - the areas that are prone to rot.

- Although it initially appears that the rear axle is about to break free from the body, I don't believe this is the case. To illustrate, here is a pic of the driver's side of my red 07 RS as well as the original pic posted by OP shepd.

I believe that these gaping holes can be closed up by welding metal. Before I bought the red RS, I jacked the car up on jackstands and I did my best to break the axle bushing loose from the body with a large crowbar. Despite all the rot the axle mounts were extremely strong. I could not budge them no matter how much force I put on the bar.

Here is what I am going to attempt:

Weld a plate on the outboard side of the metal to which the axle bushing is attached:

Weld strips to cover the hole:

I would then consider covering the metal repair with thick fiberglass mat. Then apply bedliner over top.

I thought about attempting to remove the axle bushing bolt and dropping the axle before the repair, but I expect that the bolt is severely rusted and might break. I will, however, apply copious penetrating oil over a few days and see if I can get the bolt moving. I think dropping the axle would offer the best chance of a lasting repair. But, reinforcing everything before attempting to remove the bolt might be the better option, especially since the bolt will be drenched in oil after the repair is done (see below re: rustproofing)

At the lowest point - where water might pool - I plan to drill a 1/2 hole and plug it with a 1/2 rustproofing plug. The entire cavity will then be drenched in oil, ATF or something like Fluid Film. Drenching this cavity will continue to be part of my annual rustproofing regimen.

dbrear · 07-11-2021, 06:03 PM

Sorry to revive an older thread, but I don't know where best to post. 06YarisRS mentions in the above post "oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody."

Where are these plugs? I can accept that I may be an idiot and this might be forehead-slapping obvious, but I was just looking on my 08 three door hatch and couldn't find them. Can anybody help? If you can't post a picture, can someone provide a description of where to look?

ex-x-fire · 07-11-2021, 09:11 PM

The picture above at the 3 o'clock position. That's where a rubber plug would be.

06YarisRS · 07-12-2021, 07:39 AM

Just inside that oblong hole that ex-x-fire mentions, there is a vertical hole about the size of a quarter just inside that oblong hole. You can get a wand or a spray straw inside there. That will access what I call the 'bowl' that Toyota kindly created to store water. Lol. Spray tons of stuff in there. If it was like mine, it will be full of crap. I used coat hanger bent in various directions to scrape all that stuff out.

Don't know of you saw this or not, but here is the thread where I made the repairs.

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=62787

dbrear · 07-12-2021, 06:39 PM

Thanks So Much! About how many of these plugs are there in the body? I'm aware of at least one in the trunk below the spare (there could be more in there, I don't remember), is there a general list of locations?

HDS · 09-25-2024, 01:53 AM

My car looked like this in 2020, shop repaired it and now in 2024 it's as bad again (rusted around the fix). This time I'm doing the repair myself and putting in drain plugs. I don't think it looks that hard to fix, the real issue is not having a lift.

The thicker side wall the control arm mounts to is still solid. The plan is to fix this using 2mm sheet metal or maybe 3-4mm for the bottom plate and then spray the inside cavity with raw linseed oil.

08-27-2020, 09:44 PM	#23
06YarisRS View User's Garage Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 2,384	Reviving an old thread I am doing this because it is my belief that this common issue on Yaris hatchbacks does not necessarily have to mean a death sentence for the car. Lately, I have seen more and more failed inspection Yaris Hatchbacks coming up for sale. Most are 06 and 07 models, but we know that this 'design flaw' (more on that in a minute) runs through to 2011. The term 'design flaw' was not my term, but that of a friend who has years and years of experience with many different Toyota models, including the Yaris. He too believes that with the right repairs, that these Yari can live on, and on and on. I expect that Yari in more forgiving climates (those in which road salt or other de-icers are not used) may not suffer this issue - at least for a much longer time. The red 2007 Yaris that I just bought has the same corrosion and decay just inboard of the rear axle bushing mount. I have discovered the following: - the pocket (large cavity) into which the bushing mount is molded fills with sand, dirt, other debris, and, of course water. This soggy mess quickly corrodes the thin metal, resulting in a hole in the lowest section, where moisture will pool. This mess builds up and makes its way out toward the dogleg and lower aft rocker panel areas. - If caught early enough (as in my 2006 RS), oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removeable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody - the areas that are prone to rot. - Although it initially appears that the rear axle is about to break free from the body, I don't believe this is the case. To illustrate, here is a pic of the driver's side of my red 07 RS as well as the original pic posted by OP shepd. I believe that these gaping holes can be closed up by welding metal. Before I bought the red RS, I jacked the car up on jackstands and I did my best to break the axle bushing loose from the body with a large crowbar. Despite all the rot the axle mounts were extremely strong. I could not budge them no matter how much force I put on the bar. Here is what I am going to attempt: Weld a plate on the outboard side of the metal to which the axle bushing is attached: Weld strips to cover the hole: I would then consider covering the metal repair with thick fiberglass mat. Then apply bedliner over top. I thought about attempting to remove the axle bushing bolt and dropping the axle before the repair, but I expect that the bolt is severely rusted and might break. I will, however, apply copious penetrating oil over a few days and see if I can get the bolt moving. I think dropping the axle would offer the best chance of a lasting repair. But, reinforcing everything before attempting to remove the bolt might be the better option, especially since the bolt will be drenched in oil after the repair is done (see below re: rustproofing) At the lowest point - where water might pool - I plan to drill a 1/2 hole and plug it with a 1/2 rustproofing plug. The entire cavity will then be drenched in oil, ATF or something like Fluid Film. Drenching this cavity will continue to be part of my annual rustproofing regimen. __________________ 2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-27-2020 at 10:16 PM.

07-12-2021, 07:39 AM	#26
06YarisRS View User's Garage Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 2,384	Just inside that oblong hole that ex-x-fire mentions, there is a vertical hole about the size of a quarter just inside that oblong hole. You can get a wand or a spray straw inside there. That will access what I call the 'bowl' that Toyota kindly created to store water. Lol. Spray tons of stuff in there. If it was like mine, it will be full of crap. I used coat hanger bent in various directions to scrape all that stuff out. Don't know of you saw this or not, but here is the thread where I made the repairs. https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=62787 __________________ 2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 07-12-2021 at 07:50 AM.

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07-11-2021, 06:03 PM	#24
dbrear Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 7	Sorry to revive an older thread, but I don't know where best to post. 06YarisRS mentions in the above post "oil can be sprayed into this area via large rubber oblong plugs that are easily removable. Via these plugs, you can access a large portion of the rear unibody." Where are these plugs? I can accept that I may be an idiot and this might be forehead-slapping obvious, but I was just looking on my 08 three door hatch and couldn't find them. Can anybody help? If you can't post a picture, can someone provide a description of where to look?

07-11-2021, 09:11 PM	#25
ex-x-fire Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi. Posts: 522	The picture above at the 3 o'clock position. That's where a rubber plug would be.

07-12-2021, 06:39 PM	#27
dbrear Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 7	Thanks So Much! About how many of these plugs are there in the body? I'm aware of at least one in the trunk below the spare (there could be more in there, I don't remember), is there a general list of locations?

09-25-2024, 01:53 AM	#28
HDS Drives: 07 Yaris, Saab 900 Turbo Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Finland Posts: 25	My car looked like this in 2020, shop repaired it and now in 2024 it's as bad again (rusted around the fix). This time I'm doing the repair myself and putting in drain plugs. I don't think it looks that hard to fix, the real issue is not having a lift. The thicker side wall the control arm mounts to is still solid. The plan is to fix this using 2mm sheet metal or maybe 3-4mm for the bottom plate and then spray the inside cavity with raw linseed oil.