Underdrive pulleys with system?

[why?]

Yes, so it sounds like a bad idea to me, but I wanted to see if people who knew thought it would make a difference. The 10% underdrive pulleys that seem to be what people are doing. I have a small decent system now but plan on upgrading to something good in a bit, and adding an alarm. Even with a cap for the system, I don't think it is smart, but is it? Would it hurt or not?

[Tamago]

give specs on your system, how much power are you gonna pull?

[why?]

It depends. If I can afford to get what I want though, it's about 1500 watts. I haven't completely decided yet, but from what I've been looking at the lowest it would be is about 750 for the entire system.

[The Architect]

Ive got the 10% Underdrive crank pulley with a system total of about 1300 watts between 2 amps with a 2 farad cap that reads 14.17-14.30 volts without headlights(HID's) on and with them on about 14.08-14.23

Ive also got a new yellow top that im keeping a steady eye on with with a DMM

[yarstar]

I got a NST regular Crank Pulley I'll trade you even!

Color = GRAY

[frownonfun]

Originally Posted by yarstar

I got a NST regular Crank Pulley I'll trade you even!

Color = GRAY

i've got the underdrive pulley also. uninstalled as of now. are you talking about the lites cause i might just take u up on that trade.

[yarstar]

Originally Posted by frownonfun

i've got the underdrive pulley also. uninstalled as of now. are you talking about the lites cause i might just take u up on that trade.

I've got the Lite, NOT the 10% Underdrive. It's installed and been doing fine for 4 months on the car.

I'd like to trade my Lite (color=gray) pulley for your Underdrive.

[why?]

So it is alright, cool beans. Now I just wish I had the money, hmm far too tempted to use credit, but I definately don't want to go back into crazy debt again.

[The Architect]

debt isnt so bad if its small amounts.

I have plans of adding another 18 in the next couple months.

So go git it.

[why?]

lol, its that small bits part that is catching me. I already have almost $3000 in debt. Again.

[Spades]

ok...lemme get this straight....you live in the USA and you are 3k in debt...planning to get a underdrive pully and a sound system? have you looked at our economy lately? its a house of cards in a hurricane. i would say pay off your debt first...but, differant strokes for differant folks.

now, in regards to the question about the pully...do what you want, but i wouldnt do it. lighter wieght pullys, hell yeah...that way when you let off the gas and push in the clutch the RPM's dont keep climbing...but, underdrive with a stock alternator and a full sound system? i hope you find a company with a really good warranty on their batteries and a local shop.

p.s. The Architect...dude, didnt you post like a week ago that you fried your yellow top? dude, you have a deep cycle battery and a underdrive pully...and you toasted the battery. and you are recommending that this dude do the same? um....ok....

[The Architect]

i did things to the last battery that I wont be doing to this battery.

The effects only showed once I moved to a very cold climate.

[Spades]

ok, so, the question here is, has anyone with the underdrive pully actually tested the output amps on a alternator after the mod? i have the equipment to test it, but no f--king way am i putting a underdrive pully on when i have a sound system unless i am upgrading the alternator.

look, the theory is, your alternator is not meant for this kind of load from a stereo to begin with. add a deep cycle battery into the mix and throw on a underdrive pully, and SUPRISE!!! dead battery.

or, you could just get a lighter weight pully, and run a stock battery and stock alternator...and SUPRISE!!! almost 3 years later the car still starts in sub 20 degree tempatures.

look, if you wanna spend money on new stuff for the slight performance gain of a underdrive pully and get yourself more debt at a time when our stock market is swirling the tidy bowl, go for it.

that, like everything else you will find on the internet...is an opinion. my opinion is optima batteries+HID's & stereo gear+under drive pullys=dead optima battery. i guess we will know after another year, right?

EDIT: putting the battery on a charger doesnt count either, cause most people dont want to have to hook up their battery to a charger...if you have to do that might as well scrap the f--kin alternator, right? more rotating mass = less HP...

[Return of the Yarii]

Im w/Spades on this....who runs a deep cycle battery as their main and only battery? They are meant to be auxillary batteries. This is car stereo 101 folks......All the car stereo people with their "systems" should attend an IASCA event and see what others are doing. I have $ on it that your 1000+ watt systems have more distortion than clarity. Bass isnt shit without midrange and highs. I havent seen anyone on this board running a clean or higher end amp yet.

I had the pleasure of sitting in Richard Clarks Grand National many years back when I was heavily into car audio, its amazing what 6 speakers can do. If you dont know who Richard Clark is then look him up, he is a 4 time National IASCA winner.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Spades

ok...lemme get this straight....you live in the USA and you are 3k in debt...planning to get a underdrive pully and a sound system? have you looked at our economy lately? its a house of cards in a hurricane. i would say pay off your debt first...but, differant strokes for differant folks.

now, in regards to the question about the pully...do what you want, but i wouldnt do it. lighter wieght pullys, hell yeah...that way when you let off the gas and push in the clutch the RPM's dont keep climbing...but, underdrive with a stock alternator and a full sound system? i hope you find a company with a really good warranty on their batteries and a local shop.

p.s. The Architect...dude, didnt you post like a week ago that you fried your yellow top? dude, you have a deep cycle battery and a underdrive pully...and you toasted the battery. and you are recommending that this dude do the same? um....ok....

lol.

Planning on it doesn't mean I am going to do it any time soon. These are long term plans, I have been planning on getting a system since I bought the car in 2006, and still haven't done it.

And that is the reason I asked the question, to get opinions from people who would know. I don't know much about car audio, and prolly won't ever know much. As I mentioned in the op, it didn't sound like a bright idea to me, but I wanted to know from people who might actually have experience with car audio type stuff, something I am lacking in.

As for my debt, I can take care of that.

One last question, what about the capacitor? isn't that suppose to help, or are they worthless like I have heard some say?

And then of course there is the whole idea of what to get for the system, lol. I can only imagine the years that conversation is taking.

[Spades]

yeah, they will help your battery last longer as well, that is something i will agree with arch about. the idea behind a cap is, they store some of the charge between your battery and your amp to help with the peaks in music, in most cases, the hit of the subs. it can also improve the sound quality and volume in some cases because it allows the amp to draw more instant power...the main benifit is a battery will last longer and your headlights wont dimm.

a couple farad should be good for the system you want, keep in mind you want the cap wired as close to the amp as possible(i.e. like 12 inches of power cord from cap to amp, rather than 12 feet...farther it is away the less functional it is). but yeah, my advice, if you do get a underdrive pully, get a good strong battery with a good warranty.

i mean, lets be honest...if you were REALLY so much into performance you are spending money on the minimal gains you get from a underdrive pully, you sure as hell wouldnt have 200 extra pounds of stereo s--t in the car, right? but, a lighter weight pully? i would go for it...nothing wrong with it revving up and down faster :)

[talnlnky]

I don't think that there is inherently any problems with running the underdrive with stereo equipment. Problems only arise when you max out the electrical system's (I mean the alt) ability to produce current (which you may not notice when you reach that point).

However, 95% of people who have systems probably won't run their systems in a manner that would not tax the Alt.... SO, just to be safe... stay away unless you upgrade your alt first.

I disagree with spade on some stupid semantic details... but overall, side with him, stay away.

[Spades]

dude, havent you read enough of my posts to know I am nothing but stupid semantic details? 5% information, 80% opinion, 15% crap...yup. thats me.