DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step) - Page 12 - Toyota Yaris Forums

yongtaufoo · 04-04-2010, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

That's it for an Auto.

Hi Scotts,

Thank you so much for your reply.

But im puzzle about another thing. If referring to the cruise control switch schematic, turning cruise control ON-OFF will short ECM Pin40 12V to ground. Will I then damage my ECM by doing this since it is outputing a 12V? And ECM Pin40 is an input or output port?

Thanks!

yarstar · 04-05-2010, 06:50 AM

One more CC done! Thanks to CTScott and all who contributed. A suggestion if you have the TB upgrade: you will need to disconnect the battery while doing this DIY so the ECM resets. Only disconnecting the one plug causes the initial ocillation to return. For some reason it won't learn until you completely reset the ECM.

I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you.

Thanks again CTScott. This was the only thing my car was missing.

CTScott · 04-05-2010, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yongtaufoo

Hi Scotts,

Thank you so much for your reply.

But im puzzle about another thing. If referring to the cruise control switch schematic, turning cruise control ON-OFF will short ECM Pin40 12V to ground. Will I then damage my ECM by doing this since it is outputing a 12V? And ECM Pin40 is an input or output port?

Thanks!

Pin 40 is an analog to digital port on the ECM. The 12 volts is a reference voltage and the ADC has about 2k ohms of internal resistance, so shorting that pin to ground just brings the ADC to the bottom of it's 0-12 volt input range.

weaver615 · 04-05-2010, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yarstar

I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you.

I too have a few of the 680 ohm resistors that I can donate to someone looking to do the 2 button setup. I also have some 120 ohms too if someone wants to do the 3 button setup like I did. PM me your address and I can send them out to you.

kazama82 · 04-08-2010, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

If it does have it, then you can do the wiring as above. For the indicator, you can shine a flashlight on the panel to see what indicators are there, and if the cruise ones are.

hi scott,

i see this post on opening the ECM. If i dc the battery, how do i measure the 12V?

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&highlight=ECM

very very sorry for asking a noob question...i have a DVM with me but dunno which wire/connector i need to measure to make sure my car having cruise control function...hope can get some help ...thanks..

CTScott · 04-08-2010, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazama82

hi scott,

i see this post on opening the ECM. If i dc the battery, how do i measure the 12V?

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&highlight=ECM

very very sorry for asking a noob question...i have a DVM with me but dunno which wire/connector i need to measure to make sure my car having cruise control function...hope can get some help ...thanks..

To take the measurement you would need to do so with the battery still connected and the ignition in the on position. For actually doing the wiring I suggest that people disconnect the battery, while doing so.

You can stick a pin through the rubber plug in that pin location of the ECM connector to take the measurement.

Based on others experience, I don't believe that your car's ECM will have the cruise control functionality.

kazama82 · 04-08-2010, 07:38 PM

really?..too bad then..if so, i will not bother to check the ECM voltage then..:(..thanks scott..

swidd · 04-12-2010, 07:41 PM

YAAY! It worked! It was even quite easy. The soldering with a barely warm over-sized soldering iron was the only tedious part, and getting the ECU connector apart proved harder than it needed to be because I pushed the little rubber piece in instead of out first...
My wiring, routing and resistors and stuff looks really amateurish, but whatever, so long as it works and doesn't catch on fire, and as long as nobody from Toyota sees it :)

To the guy with the picture of the 4-way switch installed in the switch place between the seats... good job! You made it look good, and I don't know how, because I could not get the switch to fit there without cutting into the panel and molest the empty switch cover.

Clutch Switch $23
ECU wire (made installation a lot easier, I routed this short wire into the grommet right behind the ECU, and spliced it to the switch wire behind the glove box, super easy). $17.
4-way switch $22.
Total: $62, and about 4 hours of fiddling.

Henry G. · 04-16-2010, 03:32 PM

Where does everyone get this "repair connector", is it a toyota only product, ior can I get it at Radio Shack? Is there a part number, what is the proper name. I have the car torn apart now, and dont just want to shove the wire into pin 40 hole. Thanks for any help..
BTW there is NO WAY this is a 45 minute DIY...but so far so good.
OK never mind did a better search and found, looks like another trip to the toyota dealer, yeah!

OK, went to the dealer, $15 bucks!!!!?? No f'ing way! And they would have to order it.
So back to Radio Shack, had to buy 5 different 1/4 watt resistors to make up the required combinations, having to use 2 to 3 resistors in series. I check them with my multi-tester, most of them show no value, even the new ones I did use, about 25% show the correct value within 5%...WTF? So I have the switch panel wired, but cannot read values on most of the resistors, some I can read but I have to switch to 2k or 20k, but most of the rest still read zero continuity. Im frustrated to say the least.

Henry G. · 04-17-2010, 07:00 PM

Well made some progress, close to getting it working. Should have worn my glasses, I bought 22k and 100k resistors instead of 22 and 100 ohm. Went back to Radio Shack where I am practically on a first name basis now with the employees, got the $12.99 500 pack, so I will have a bunch to give away when the job is done. Tried to unsolder the wrong resistors out of the loops, and melted one of the micro NO switches. Looks like I will be rebuilding my switch pad from scratch, not going back into town again today.
On the up side, got a wire, folded over twice and soldered to fit into pin 40 on the ecm harness, with a confirmed 12+ volts so it seated. I routed the wire through the heater hose/tube grommet, very soft and pliable, taping the wire to a coat hanger and carefully working it through worked. Same for the clutch switch wires. I used small terminals which stuffed quite nicely down into the fuse block connections for clutch wires where the jumper goes, worked good.
I will post pics tomorrow AFTER I get more switches and get this SOB working.

Just a few observations and suggestions which may or may not have been mentioned along the way: Remove the ECM for the firewall, and undo the wire loop holders to pull the whole thing out. The ECM connectors are GARBAGE IMO, and are a PITA to remove and replace. They appear to literally be meant for only several uses, despite being gentle. At least getting the thing off the firewall allows you to get a better look and grasp at it. Another thing, did I mention the ECM conncectors are crap? My Chevy is built for at least 100 R&R's, with a screw securing the PCM connectors. This is stuff cheap, be careful and dont use much force. I got them on and off again without damage, but it was not simple. As usual with jobs like this, you need the hands the size of a 3 year old with the strength of a 20 year old. Another thing, make sure you have ALL the parts before you start, I just assumed I would run down to the dealer and store and they would have everything I needed, not the case. Also, get a multimeter if you dont have one, you will need it often.
Allow at least 4 hours for ripping the car apart, making the switch pad, shoving wires through the firewall, installing the clutch switch and wires, and screwing around with ECM connectors. Get the Toyota repair connector, I lucked out after several tries by shoving a soldered wire down there with needle nose pliers, but you may not. And get soldering flux, soldering without it is 10 times as hard, plumbers flux works fine. Also get a pad or pile of towels to put on the ground outside the car as you will be spending some time on your knees down there.
Hope to have it working tomorrow, as its going to the dealer for CV joints under extended warranty at 47k Monday.

Henry G. · 04-18-2010, 06:14 PM

OK, I DID IT!! When I first felt the car accelerate to hold the speed it made it all worth it.
Total cost $50, had to buy multi pack of resistors and second set of switches, still worth every penny.

Second switch pad ready for install

Plugged in ready for test drive. I used connectors to unplug the first switch pad and plug in the second correctly wired one.

Clutch jumper going to fuse box.

ECM wire tucked into harness

ECM and clutch wires coming thru heater hose grommet. Im not thrilled with this set up, I will likely get a grommet and drill a hole thru the firewall next to the hoses in the near future.

Ground wire going to bolt on gas pedal. I couldnt find the previously mentioned ground wire, this worked great, easy to get to. With the plastic re-installed you cannot see this wire at all.

AND final install.
Thanks for everyone who contributed posts along the way, the DIY and CTScotts expert info, after reading everything it all came together, I made it harder than it had to be by not getting the right resistors up front, and wiring in the wrong ones in the first switch pad. I have some extra resistors if anyone wants them PM me.
Hank

Sodium Duck · 04-18-2010, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jthebeh

To anyone that did what I did and pushed the rubber stopper down instead of up. I used a very small drill bit and twisted it with my fingers and it cought and I was able to pull it out. it took me about an hour to get this out, sucked big time

You should have been able to just push it out from the other end with a paperclip. I pushed the wrong way, too.

yongtaufoo · 05-04-2010, 09:57 AM

Hi guys,

Any one can advice me where i can purchase the repair wire for ECM pin 40 for cruise control DIY? Its made by Tyco right? Anybody knows the Tyco part number?

CTScott · 05-04-2010, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yongtaufoo

Hi guys,

Any one can advice me where i can purchase the repair wire for ECM pin 40 for cruise control DIY? Its made by Tyco right? Anybody knows the Tyco part number?

I posted the Toyota part number in the thread below. Your best bet is to get it from Toyota. I have tried ordering some of the Tyco pins, but they are OEM custom parts, so you can't get them from Tyco distributors.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=faq+cruise

Happy Little Pony · 05-04-2010, 08:32 PM

I must offer major thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on the whole cruise control project.

I just spent the afternoon installing the "two switch" method on my 2007 with manual transmission. It works!

Revsson · 05-05-2010, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happy Little Pony

I must offer major thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on the whole cruise control project.

I just spent the afternoon installing the "two switch" method on my 2007 with manual transmission. It works!

Congratulations Happy Little Pony !!

I have the factory cruise, but am trying to talk my buddy into doing this
on his 2007 MT. I also know someone with a 2008 AT that does a lot of
highway driving, and think he should do this to his as well.

crazyandroid · 05-10-2010, 04:03 PM

Hi there, I have been considering doing this mod and I am waiting on my parts (ordered switches, resistors, and wire from allelectronics.com); however I have one question. I did not see anywhere in here which wire goes where for the clutch switch. I have an '07 sedan w/ MT and I have the Toyota clutch switch, which has two posts and I see that there are two posts to connect to the CC switches in the fuse box. Could someone please clarify for me how to run the wires from the clutch switch to the fuse box connections, if it even matters. BTW, I will have extras of each resistor so if anyone wants em I'll mail them to you, just PM me.

CTScott · 05-10-2010, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazyandroid

Hi there, I have been considering doing this mod and I am waiting on my parts (ordered switches, resistors, and wire from allelectronics.com); however I have one question. I did not see anywhere in here which wire goes where for the clutch switch. I have an '07 sedan w/ MT and I have the Toyota clutch switch, which has two posts and I see that there are two posts to connect to the CC switches in the fuse box. Could someone please clarify for me how to run the wires from the clutch switch to the fuse box connections, if it even matters. BTW, I will have extras of each resistor so if anyone wants em I'll mail them to you, just PM me.

There is no polarity to the clutch switch, so you don't have to worry about which terminal on the switch goes to which of the two wires in the fuse box.

You simply run the two wires from the clutch switch to the two wires in the under-hood fuse box, and make your connections.

04-05-2010, 06:50 AM	#200
yarstar View User's Garage Drives: 2008 Absolute Red HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Georgia Posts: 264	One more CC done! Thanks to CTScott and all who contributed. A suggestion if you have the TB upgrade: you will need to disconnect the battery while doing this DIY so the ECM resets. Only disconnecting the one plug causes the initial ocillation to return. For some reason it won't learn until you completely reset the ECM. I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you. Thanks again CTScott. This was the only thing my car was missing. __________________ AEM CAI, NST Pulleys/SSK, WR 4-2-1 Header, TRD axelback, R1 Concept Rotors, TRD Sway Bar, Nitto Rear Strut Bar, Cusco GT-Zero Coilovers, 1ZZ-FE 1.8L TB

04-16-2010, 03:32 PM	#207
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Where does everyone get this "repair connector", is it a toyota only product, ior can I get it at Radio Shack? Is there a part number, what is the proper name. I have the car torn apart now, and dont just want to shove the wire into pin 40 hole. Thanks for any help.. BTW there is NO WAY this is a 45 minute DIY...but so far so good. OK never mind did a better search and found, looks like another trip to the toyota dealer, yeah! OK, went to the dealer, $15 bucks!!!!?? No f'ing way! And they would have to order it. So back to Radio Shack, had to buy 5 different 1/4 watt resistors to make up the required combinations, having to use 2 to 3 resistors in series. I check them with my multi-tester, most of them show no value, even the new ones I did use, about 25% show the correct value within 5%...WTF? So I have the switch panel wired, but cannot read values on most of the resistors, some I can read but I have to switch to 2k or 20k, but most of the rest still read zero continuity. Im frustrated to say the least. Last edited by Henry G.; 04-16-2010 at 07:15 PM.

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04-08-2010, 07:38 PM	#205
kazama82 Drives: VIOS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Malaysia Posts: 42	really?..too bad then..if so, i will not bother to check the ECM voltage then..:(..thanks scott..

04-12-2010, 07:41 PM	#206
swidd Drives: Yaris HB Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Central Alabama, GOD BLESS AMERICA Posts: 755	YAAY! It worked! It was even quite easy. The soldering with a barely warm over-sized soldering iron was the only tedious part, and getting the ECU connector apart proved harder than it needed to be because I pushed the little rubber piece in instead of out first... My wiring, routing and resistors and stuff looks really amateurish, but whatever, so long as it works and doesn't catch on fire, and as long as nobody from Toyota sees it :) To the guy with the picture of the 4-way switch installed in the switch place between the seats... good job! You made it look good, and I don't know how, because I could not get the switch to fit there without cutting into the panel and molest the empty switch cover. Clutch Switch $23 ECU wire (made installation a lot easier, I routed this short wire into the grommet right behind the ECU, and spliced it to the switch wire behind the glove box, super easy). $17. 4-way switch $22. Total: $62, and about 4 hours of fiddling.

04-17-2010, 07:00 PM	#208
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Well made some progress, close to getting it working. Should have worn my glasses, I bought 22k and 100k resistors instead of 22 and 100 ohm. Went back to Radio Shack where I am practically on a first name basis now with the employees, got the $12.99 500 pack, so I will have a bunch to give away when the job is done. Tried to unsolder the wrong resistors out of the loops, and melted one of the micro NO switches. Looks like I will be rebuilding my switch pad from scratch, not going back into town again today. On the up side, got a wire, folded over twice and soldered to fit into pin 40 on the ecm harness, with a confirmed 12+ volts so it seated. I routed the wire through the heater hose/tube grommet, very soft and pliable, taping the wire to a coat hanger and carefully working it through worked. Same for the clutch switch wires. I used small terminals which stuffed quite nicely down into the fuse block connections for clutch wires where the jumper goes, worked good. I will post pics tomorrow AFTER I get more switches and get this SOB working. Just a few observations and suggestions which may or may not have been mentioned along the way: Remove the ECM for the firewall, and undo the wire loop holders to pull the whole thing out. The ECM connectors are GARBAGE IMO, and are a PITA to remove and replace. They appear to literally be meant for only several uses, despite being gentle. At least getting the thing off the firewall allows you to get a better look and grasp at it. Another thing, did I mention the ECM conncectors are crap? My Chevy is built for at least 100 R&R's, with a screw securing the PCM connectors. This is stuff cheap, be careful and dont use much force. I got them on and off again without damage, but it was not simple. As usual with jobs like this, you need the hands the size of a 3 year old with the strength of a 20 year old. Another thing, make sure you have ALL the parts before you start, I just assumed I would run down to the dealer and store and they would have everything I needed, not the case. Also, get a multimeter if you dont have one, you will need it often. Allow at least 4 hours for ripping the car apart, making the switch pad, shoving wires through the firewall, installing the clutch switch and wires, and screwing around with ECM connectors. Get the Toyota repair connector, I lucked out after several tries by shoving a soldered wire down there with needle nose pliers, but you may not. And get soldering flux, soldering without it is 10 times as hard, plumbers flux works fine. Also get a pad or pile of towels to put on the ground outside the car as you will be spending some time on your knees down there. Hope to have it working tomorrow, as its going to the dealer for CV joints under extended warranty at 47k Monday.

04-18-2010, 06:14 PM	#209
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	OK, I DID IT!! When I first felt the car accelerate to hold the speed it made it all worth it. Total cost $50, had to buy multi pack of resistors and second set of switches, still worth every penny. Second switch pad ready for install Plugged in ready for test drive. I used connectors to unplug the first switch pad and plug in the second correctly wired one. Clutch jumper going to fuse box. ECM wire tucked into harness ECM and clutch wires coming thru heater hose grommet. Im not thrilled with this set up, I will likely get a grommet and drill a hole thru the firewall next to the hoses in the near future. Ground wire going to bolt on gas pedal. I couldnt find the previously mentioned ground wire, this worked great, easy to get to. With the plastic re-installed you cannot see this wire at all. AND final install. Thanks for everyone who contributed posts along the way, the DIY and CTScotts expert info, after reading everything it all came together, I made it harder than it had to be by not getting the right resistors up front, and wiring in the wrong ones in the first switch pad. I have some extra resistors if anyone wants them PM me. Hank

05-04-2010, 09:57 AM	#211
yongtaufoo Drives: My 1st Toyota Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: USA Posts: 3	Hi guys, Any one can advice me where i can purchase the repair wire for ECM pin 40 for cruise control DIY? Its made by Tyco right? Anybody knows the Tyco part number?

05-04-2010, 08:32 PM	#213
Happy Little Pony Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 83	I must offer major thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on the whole cruise control project. I just spent the afternoon installing the "two switch" method on my 2007 with manual transmission. It works!

05-10-2010, 04:03 PM	#215
crazyandroid Drives: 2007 Polar White Sedan Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Waco, TX Posts: 5	Hi there, I have been considering doing this mod and I am waiting on my parts (ordered switches, resistors, and wire from allelectronics.com); however I have one question. I did not see anywhere in here which wire goes where for the clutch switch. I have an '07 sedan w/ MT and I have the Toyota clutch switch, which has two posts and I see that there are two posts to connect to the CC switches in the fuse box. Could someone please clarify for me how to run the wires from the clutch switch to the fuse box connections, if it even matters. BTW, I will have extras of each resistor so if anyone wants em I'll mail them to you, just PM me.