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10-13-2017, 02:46 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2012 Toyota Yaris Sedan (Vios) Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Thailand
Posts: 291
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Voltage Issue
I thought it was battery issue and it was actually 1 1/2 years old so i replaced them with new one...the old battery produced 13v running and going below 12.7~9v during idle, hard for me to park the car, pedal becoming stiff etc.
i changed to new battery yesterday and its running 13.2v but having similar issues where its dropping volt during low idle... this happened after camshaft install -_- should i get some grounding wire kit to boost some voltage? engine only has 45,000km and in good condition... any advice????? Sent from my SM-J730GM using Tapatalk
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Brain: ATD E85 Timing Advance ECU Engine: 1JZ Injectors, Header, Center Pipe, K&N Drop In, E85 Injector Converter Suspension: Hankook Tires, Performance OEM replacement Shocks & Springs F: 1.5 B: 1.4, Mu Spec brake pads, Front tower & Rear sway bars, Rays nut & lock Electric: Volt Stablizer & Multi gauge obd2 Cosmetic: Toyota red emblem |
10-13-2017, 06:28 AM | #2 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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Sounds like an alternator issue to me.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk |
10-13-2017, 12:55 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris SE Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,076
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What RPM are you idling at? Did your cam swap result in lower RPMs at idle? High performance cams are just that. They are designed for high RPM applications, often sacrificing low RPM performance.
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10-13-2017, 01:01 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2012 Toyota Yaris Sedan (Vios) Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Thailand
Posts: 291
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650~800rpm (auto transm.)
im running like 13v than when i back up or try to park, voltage just drops below 13v...all the way down to 12.6v and my brake pedal kind of becomes hard/stiff... i thought it was brake booster or hose...it wasnt, got checked up... i also thought it was the battery or line had corroded so i replaced them yesterday...so it not the issue.. i cleaned all the TB and maf with the crc cleaner...also not this one.. got my scan gauge back and noticed battery voltage been low....so i just ordered myself a HKS grounding kit...try to hook up battery to alternator and hope to boost the voltage up and pray that it works.... Sent from my SM-J730GM using Tapatalk
__________________
Brain: ATD E85 Timing Advance ECU Engine: 1JZ Injectors, Header, Center Pipe, K&N Drop In, E85 Injector Converter Suspension: Hankook Tires, Performance OEM replacement Shocks & Springs F: 1.5 B: 1.4, Mu Spec brake pads, Front tower & Rear sway bars, Rays nut & lock Electric: Volt Stablizer & Multi gauge obd2 Cosmetic: Toyota red emblem |
10-13-2017, 04:12 PM | #5 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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My idle voltage is 14v.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk |
10-13-2017, 04:30 PM | #6 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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+1, Now that I installed a reman alternator. It was in the mid 13s before replacing.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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