|
|
09-15-2010, 11:46 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
|
Hatch light switch
Has anyone tried to re-wire the hatch switch in with the front door switches, then make the rear light tied into the dome light? I'd like to be able to open the hatch, and ALL the lights come on. I don't know if it's as simple as breaking the switch/bulb link in the rear, and just tying them into the front system?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks. |
09-15-2010, 01:41 PM | #2 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
|
It's doable, but not trivial. You would have to split the rear door courtesy switch from the light and then run a 2 conductor wire from the connector by the light to the under dash fuse panel. You will have to fool the body ECU into believing that the hatch courtesy switch is the same as one of the front door courtesy switches and you will have to connect the light's ground wire to the door switched ground that makes the dome light come on when the doors open.
Run the 2 conductor wire from the front to the rear 1. Pop the door skid trim piece on the driver's side. 2. Remove the driver's side kick panel. 3. (If doing this on a 5 door, remove the lower B pillar cover and the rear door skid trim piece). 4. Remove the left rear trim. At the rear: 1. Find the junction connector J28 behind the left rear panel (it's a 12 pin connector). Conn J28-J29.jpg 2. Cut the brown wire in pin 5 (between the orange and sky blue wires) . Conn J28.jpg 3. Tape or cap off the connector end of the brown wire. 4. Connect the harness side of the brown wire to one of the conductors in the wire that you ran from the front to the back. 5. On the rear light assembly, cut the orange wire. 6. Tape/cap off the harness side of the orange wire. 7. Connect the light assembly side of the orange wire to the other conductor in the wire that you ran from the front. At the front: 1. On the under dash fuse panel, locate connector 4K (pictured below with the pink, blue and white/black wires). 2. Connect the conductor from step 7 above (the wire connected to the orange wire of the light assembly) to the pink wire on connector 4K. 3. Locate connector 4A. 4. Connect the conductor from step 4 above (the wire connected to the brown wire from the hatch courtesy switch) to the red wire in pin 21 of connector 4A Conn 4A 4B.jpg |
09-15-2010, 01:50 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 899
|
CT, you always go out of your way to help people and completely explain stuff. I mean, simple question and you break out diagrams and pics. AWESOME stuff!
I WISH there was a rep system on these boards. I would find myself repping you every chance I could get:) |
09-16-2010, 08:49 AM | #4 | |
Crazy Oil Sniffer
Drives: MM 09 Yaris 5 Dr LB "Click" Join Date: May 2009
Location: ME
Posts: 498
|
Quote:
R2 |
|
09-15-2010, 03:58 PM | #5 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
|
couldnt it be alot simplier? like could u not just pull the source of power (coming from the rear hatch switch) and connect it to the +12v side of the dome light?
__________________
If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
09-15-2010, 04:07 PM | #6 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
|
Quote:
You could have the hatch courtesy switch create the ground for the dome, but then you'd have to add an isolation diode to avoid popping the DOME fuse and you would have to snake wires through the headliner. It's much easier to work where the plastic pieces |
|
09-16-2010, 01:05 AM | #7 | |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
|
Quote:
but good call on the fact of the matter the plastic is alot easier to deal with.
__________________
If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
|
09-16-2010, 08:18 AM | #8 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
|
That seems to be a common trend in car wiring - Everything is switched ground rather than switched power. On the Yaris, it really is just about everything (headlights, power windows, power locks, AC blower, evap emissions, etc.)
|
09-17-2010, 11:00 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Join Date: May 2010
Location: georgia
Posts: 91
|
they way i was told in auto classes ( am in college for associates degree in auto tech) was that due to possible voltage spikes, the ECM(s) are more easily protected if they only handle the ground side of the circuits. Also that ALL circuits go through an ECM no matter what the circuit is for. that was true back in the day but is true now.
|
09-16-2010, 01:27 PM | #10 | |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
|
Quote:
The switch in the door-jam is simply a spring loaded contact that grounds against the body when you open the door, completing the circuit and turning on the light. (basically) |
|
09-16-2010, 02:13 PM | #11 | |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
|
Quote:
very well put, i never thought of it that way......
__________________
If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
|
09-15-2010, 05:12 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
|
CTScott, you are awesome! What you explained was exactly what I was thinking. And with the pictures and diagrams, now I don't need to go poking around, blowing fuses. :-) Thanks again, dude!!
|
09-16-2010, 08:43 AM | #13 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
|
well i suppose in some ways it could be cheaper, having only one main power wire going to the load in what ever case (dome light, headlight, locks, etc) and from there running the circuit "completer" wire (ground) to the individual switch(s) and grounding them out from there....
sorry to the op for hijacking this thread
__________________
If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
09-18-2010, 01:24 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
|
Just an update, I just finished this mod, and it works!! The hardest part was getting a T-tap on the Red wire on the 4A connector. There isn't much space up there.
Another thing to remember for anyone else, I have an 2009 LB. The "orange" color on the rear connectors is more like a peachy-brown color. So again, thanks CTScott!! |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
DIY (08' USDM Liftback): ESUSE Fog Light Install v2.0 | goku87 | DIY / Maintenance / Service | 127 | 02-19-2023 07:01 PM |
DIY (08' USDM LB): Interior Light Color Change | revnull | DIY / Maintenance / Service | 37 | 05-21-2016 12:59 PM |
How many forum posters does it take to change a light bulb? | silver_echo | Off-topic / Other Cars / Everything else Discussions | 25 | 06-27-2011 01:50 AM |
LED'n it out (warning...big pics) | custom Lftback | Photo-Video-Media Gallery | 9 | 05-24-2010 03:41 AM |
replacement fog light switch? | yrsdrgn | Cosmetic Modifications (Exterior/Interior) | 4 | 07-17-2007 04:11 PM |