Yaris Oil Change DIY

[rningonfumes]

Even though this is a pretty easy exercise, I guess I must still put a disclaimer:

YarisWorld and RningOnFumes are not responsible for any damages acquired while in the process of performing the following directions during or after the Oil change. Please be prepared and follow the directions. Again the author of this DIY and YarisWorld are not responsible for any actions you take which may cause damage to your car.
1.Prepare
2.Read
3.Follow

If you can't handle an oil change...get to know your mechanic well.

**If this is the car's very first change, it is suggested you take it to the dealor or whomever, Toyota tends to almost literally weld their oil filters on. Because they are over tightened from the factory, you may have problems taking it off.

Originally Posted by toad

word of advice - you might want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil pan. just make sure you can get the filter turning(don't unscrew all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining all the oil out of the car in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you. don't ask how i know this

**Great advice !
A. If at this point, you are still adamant about doing the oil and oil filter change your self..... You may wish to skip to the Oil Filter section (2) if you have a very new vehicle--(first oil filter change since the factory). This will allow you to see if you can get the oil filter off on your own. If you can not for any reason, you still have the option of then going to the dealer or an outside shop because you still have oil for which to run the engine on.**




LAST WARNING (about the filter)....AND HERE WE GO! GOODLUCK!!
1. Buy supplies.
1. Oil: The cap says 5W30, there is a TSB that states you can use 5W20. I went with 5W20 to stay under warranty. You can go lower or higher. When to go any lower or higher, it will depend on your climate and driving pattern. Remember though, stay within Toyota recommendations for warranty purposes.
2. Oil Filter: Size Mobil M1-103 OR Toyota 90915-YZZF2 DENSO (made in Thailand) OR if you can find it: Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4 (Made in Japan) -which is a much better quality than the Denso. Or find the brand you like in the appropriate size. As for other brands, you can try non premium ones because they cost as much as 5-10 dollars less, just stick with the brand names and you should be fine. AND ....NO FRAM!!!! I REPEAT, NO FRAM.

Originally Posted by Grumpy_in_NH;269751 Of YarisWorld

I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!

3. Filter Cap socket attachment
4. Socket Wrench
5. Size 14mm Socket
6. Oil Catch Can
Once this first oil change has been done, for all the rest, you should only require new oil and a new oil filter (granted you kept everything).


2. Getting to know where everything is:


Underside pic from RShatchback of Yarisworld.
_____________________________________________ ______ _____ ____

Now for the actual changing.....
NOTE: It is advisable that you warm up the engine to operating temps to mix up any deposits into the oil so it drains with the oil. Also important to note that if you feel the oil pan is too hot...wait a bit or use gloves. A quick drive to the store and back should be enough time for things to warm up properly.

1. Drain Oil using 14 mm Socket to remove oil plug. Use the wrench first to loosen the plug, then place Oil catch can under and proceed to twist the the plug loose with your fingers. (REMEMBER THE OIL MIGHT STILL BE TOO HOT, USE CAUTION)



A) Open the Oil Cap at the top of the engine to let air in if you wish for the oil to drain a bit faster.
B) Wait until the oil comes out to a few trickles.
C) Wipe down the oil pan. Clean up the drain plug.
D) Put the cleaned plug back into the pan. Be careful not to force it or you will strip the bolt and/or the hole. Tighten to firm with the socket wrench.

2. Oil filter. (REMEMBER OIL MAY STILL BE TOO HOT TO HANDLE THE FILTER, USE CAUTION)
A) Attach the oil filter cap to the socket wrench or use an appropriate oil filter wrench. I like the cap because of the ability to use the tool in small spaces.
B) Drag the oil catch can under the oil filter
C) Loosen the filter from the top of the engine (more room to work with). Remember because the filter is upside down (and you are looking down to it), you twist right to loosen.


Note: Twists reversed because you are viewing it from the top and the filter itself is mounted upside down.

Originally Posted by Grumpy_in_NH

Not bad - but wrong on one point: Its Left-Lucy, Righty-Tighty on the filter. Actually there is no left or right. Its anti-clockwise to loosen (unless its a flammable gas fitting). Also I would never-EVER use the toyta Thailand filter again its very low quality compared to Toyota Japon, Nippon Denso 90915-10003 or 4. NO FRAM!

D)Use hand to twist the filter off. The Oil Filter will still have residual oil in it, turn it over and place it onto the catch can to continue draining. Wipe the opening of the Oil Filter nozzle.
E)Prepare the new oil filter by holding it upside down. Fill in from half to full of new oil. Spread some of the new oil on and around the oil filter gasket.

F) Take out the old filter and catch can from underneath the car. Put in the new, prepared one. Twist to the left to hand tightness. **yes, hand tight** If you want torque specs. scroll down to Discussion C.



3. Filling:
A) Open Oil Cap (if you haven't done it yet). Place Funnel in hole.


B) Fill to about 3 quarts and stop. If you're using the big 5qt Jug from wally world, put in a little under 3/4 of the jug.
C) Replace the oil cap. Wipe your hands and go start the engine and let her sit.
D) While the engine is running: Take a rag and start wiping things down. What you're doing is looking for leaks from the oil plug and from the oil filter. Of course don't stick your fingers where they don't belong while the engine is on.
E) After about 2-3 minutes, shut down the engine and pull the dip stick. Wipe it off and put it back in. Now pull it and look at where the oil is. because you only put in about 3 qts. The oil most likely will only be at the very tip of the dip stick. Put the Dipstick back in and fill up about half a qt. Run the engine again.
F) After another 2-3 minutes, stop the engine and check the dipstick. Oil should be around the bottom to middle (between the two dots).

G)....continue this until it gets to the middle...if the oil is in the middle...YOU'RE DONE!
H) Clean up, save oil and oil filter receipts for your records. Go have a beer or something.

4. Afterwards/Discussion
A) Check air filter to see if it needs replacing. Check wiper fluid levels. Check tranny dipstick (if you have one).
B) After the first day, then the week, then two weeks, check the ground under the car after you've pulled out to see if there are leaks. This just means tightening things up.
C) The Oil plug under the car should have been just firm with the wrench, the oil filter could have been just hand tight. If you are anal retentive, you may use the wrench to twist to firm. But the hand tightness is to help you for the next change, when that time comes, even if you did it to hand tightness, you will still find yourself needing a wrench.
As for Torque specs:

Originally Posted by aca72

Oil plug (with new gasket)...
38 N*m (382 kgf*cm, 28 ft.*lbf)

Oil filter...
13 N*m (133 kgf*cm, 9.5 ft.*lbf)
If the available workspace is insufficient to use
a torque wrench, tighten the oil filter a 3/4 turn
by hand or use a common wrench.

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

D) About oils. You can stay Dino (non-synthetic) if you wish, this won't hurt the engine in the least bit as long as you do it within the service intervals. Those of you who want to do synthetic may see a slight increase in performance and mileage (more mileage than performance). As far as brands...stick with the name brands and you will be fine. If you want some homework go to these two places for education:

1. General knowledge on Oils: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
2. Great discussions on Oils: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums

E) Service Intervals... If you don't want to get into the debate, stick with the 5000miles Toyota recommends...plus it doesn't void the warranty. Now if you are past the warranty (usually 36,000miles or 3 years), You could up the interval to near 10k miles if you want on certain synthetics.

Originally Posted by ToddR

Make sure your oil meets or exceeds the minimum specs required by Toyota.

Keep all receipts for future records! Write in a log the mileage, type of oil (ie 5w-20), and Filter type/brand.
F) From here on, you should be able to get away with buying the oil and the filter because you will already have everything else. Matter of fact, take the opportunity to take a trip to the store for that period you're supposed to warm up the car, this way, you won't be wasting gas staying in one place waiting for the engine to warm up.
G) You can find 5 Qt Jugs of oil or you can find oil in the usual 1 Qt bottles.
F. PLEASE DISPOSE OF YOUR USED OIL CORRECTLY. MOST AUTO PARTS STORES ARE HAPPY TO TAKE YOUR USED OIL. EVEN YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC WILL AS WELL, TAKE THE OIL FROM YOU.

[bdc87]

Thanks for reposting! By the way Mobil 1 is not what its hyped up to be. I use Royal Purple and a K&N Filter.

[127.0.0.1]

Originally Posted by bdc87

Thanks for reposting! By the way Mobil 1 is not what its hyped up to be.

LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks

[yarisitis]

Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1

LOL WUT ?

I have fed my 5VZ Mobil 1 since day 1 in 1998, and 184,000 miles later it still exceeds EPA (22mpg, epa is 19) and I have super clean exhaust, no knock sensor activity on 87 octane. every 8000-10,000 miles new Mobil 1 and new filter.

My cams have almost undetectable wear. My engine has no sludge I repeat no sludge at all, whatsoever. I beat the crap out of it and it is still more powerful than a brand new motor. original pistons original rings original valves original cams.

I don't know where you get your Mobil 1 info but it sounds like you are slamming it for some unknown reason. try 11 years of serious engine beatdowns, and after seeing virtually no wear then tell me Mobil 1 is not all it is cracked up to be. (virtually no wear means everything measurable and made of metal and uses oil lubrication is within spec by a large factor)

mobil 1 rocks

Hey loopback address, do you work in networking or something?

[Yaris_Style]

Originally Posted by YoyotaTaris

To the people who want to restore some important topics.

If you remember the thread titles, Google them, and use Google Cache to repost them in the forum.

You will have to do this quickly before Google updates its Cache (next few days).

Here, a head start.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...G=Search&meta=

START!

[dvlnblkdrs]

good indeed.. i was thinking of attempting this since i want to kinda avoid dealership for maintenance now that i will have wheels on in a few weeks with tuner lugs on it.. dont want nobody hurtin my baby.. i may have to have some assistance the first time or so, then i think ill run wild with it alone.. but only cuz this wonderful detailed diy.. love it


i took 2 yrs of auto shop and never touched a car, so i have no clue about nething.. lol

[rningonfumes]

*I've finally moved everything, please consider this post for a sticky.

[yarisitis]

I didn't know you needed to fill the new oil filter with oil before you put it on. So you fill it between half way and full? What's the purpose of putting oil in it?

I never did this with my old car, but will start doing it with my Yaris since my first oil change is coming up soon.

[posaunemeister]

I think it's because all of the oil eventually flows through the filter and then the engine re-uptakes the oil from the filter. And perhaps when the ignition is started, the engine re-uptakes the oil directly from the oil filter. So if the ignition takes place and there is no oil in the filter (after an oil change), it's sort of like dry-heaving (puking without any food in your system). That's just my guess. Sorry.

[yaris-me]

Thanks, rningonfumes. Nice write up. It should be a sticky.

[rningonfumes]

Yarisitis, I think Posaunemeister has it down.

This is what I got from Carbibles.com (one of the links I posted):

One reader suggested and additional step before (9) above. When he changes his filter, he fills the new one up with clean oil and waits for it to soak into the filter itself. Once he's satisfied that the filter is soaked, he pours the excess oil out of the filter and then screws it on to the engine.

Along with Posaunemister's interpretation, I would add that you're giving the filter a head start in both filtration and sending oil to the engine. I realize that the engine should still have a thin coat lining it's walls but this allows the engine to get that fresh oil that much sooner, so basically it's a precaution. Folks with better knowledge will probably chime in their opinions as well.

As for me, I've just done it out of habit and I put it into the directions. Another thing out of habit is that I don't really care for the crush washer as shown here from a pic found at Carbibles.com:
Courtesy of www.carbibles.com
You will find people will also have their opinion about the crush washer.

Yarisitis, I recommend you be well prepared to put extra "elbow grease" when taking off your stock oil filter because you say it's the first time for your car. You should definitely use the cap I wrote about above, otherwise you might find yourself having to use a screwdriver punchered into the side of the filter.
Good luck, it should be smooth as long as you're prepared. LOL..the KEY IS LEVERAGE. MOAR LEVARAGE!! haha.

Edit: Thanks Yaris-me!

[Yaris Hilton]

My original oil filter came off with no drama. Just took a little more of a grunt than usual to get it started.

[toad]

great write-up! word of advice - you might want to try to loosen the filter FIRST before you drain the oil pan. just make sure you can get the filter turning(don't unscrew all the way or you'll have a mess) before draining all the oil out of the car in case you have to take it to the quick-lube place to have them take the filter off for you. don't ask how i know this

[rningonfumes]

Toad, great advice! I hope the change is to your liking. I hadn't thought about telling people just to try the oil filter before draining the oil on the car's first change.... so use to the habit of oil first, always.

[RedRide]

The best solution would be if you change you own oil regulaly is to just get a filter wrench. A simple band wrench only cost a few $.

[Yaris Hilton]

Oh yeah, you really need one. Even when you properly lubricate the gasket and install the filter finger-tight, you commonly need the wrench to break it loose 5,000 miles later.

[PhilD424]

Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC. That thin oil is only needed for extremely cold climates. Also you might want to let people know they don't have to use a socket wrench for the drain plug, its really not needed just use a 14mm wrench.

[AmyV]

Originally Posted by yarisitis

I didn't know you needed to fill the new oil filter with oil before you put it on. So you fill it between half way and full? What's the purpose of putting oil in it?

I never did this with my old car, but will start doing it with my Yaris since my first oil change is coming up soon.

That is to help make sure that there is no gap in lubrication. The hardest thing on an engine is startup, before oil is moving effieciently. In that second before the pump starts pulling from the sump, some 80%-90% of total engine damage is done. Damage being normal wear and tear damage. Now that is obviously unavoidable. But the point is that by putting some oil in the filter, it helps make sure that, right after an oil change, that initial startup doesn't take longer.

Originally Posted by PhilD424

Damn 5W20? Thats wayyy to thin. Even so with 5W30. I personally wouldn't use anything less then 10W30, atleast for the kind of driving we do in NYC. That thin oil is only needed for extremely cold climates. Also you might want to let people know they don't have to use a socket wrench for the drain plug, its really not needed just use a 14mm wrench.

Actually, with newer engine, 5W20 is actually the best. As an engine ages, clearances get larger (i.e. between the cylinder wall and the piston), so a heavier oil is fine. But when the engine is newer and has smaller clearances, a thinner oil is needed to ensure quick and efficient lubrication.