Synthetic Oil

[nsmitchell]

Anyone plan to go Synthetic on their first oil change. What do y'all reccommend? I have used Mobil1 in the past, but I heard they have changed their formula, dumbing it down to Castrol Syntec style synthetic. I think I'm going to use Amsoil 0W-30 with an Amsoil filter. As for the ATF, I think Toyota is using synthetic ATF already because there is no scheduled service interval for the ATF flush and fill.

[stuffy]

i was going to switch to synthetic if it meant i wouldn't need oil changes as often, but the service tech said that they still need to change the oil every 8 months, so i figured i wouldn't bother.

[pxpaulx]

every 8 months? you must not drive very much! i was doing every 7500 in my honda element w/mobil 1 - i think i might go the amsoil route with the yaris too. my dealer gives free oil changes for life though - their stipulation is of course, that you get 15K, 30K, 45K etc. etc. service done there. they charge $160 for the 15K and $360 for the 30K. too steep for me, this is a maintenance free car for well beyond those numbers! but, they do give the first 4 oil changes for free no matter what, i'll just have to bring in my own synthetic for them to put in.

[07WYarisRS]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

Anyone plan to go Synthetic on their first oil change. What do y'all reccommend? I have used Mobil1 in the past, but I heard they have changed their formula, dumbing it down to Castrol Syntec style synthetic. I think I'm going to use Amsoil 0W-30 with an Amsoil filter. As for the ATF, I think Toyota is using synthetic ATF already because there is no scheduled service interval for the ATF flush and fill.

You are correct
Mobil1 Synthetic is a group III mineral based oil just like Castrol Syntec and Motul.

Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple are the only major brands, easy to find that I know of that are Group IV-V oils.

I have switched to Amsoil 2000 0W-30 at 8000km.
This oil is good for 1 year or 35,000miles unless you do the lab analysis testing.
Personally I have always changed it every 6 months (usually October and April) and usually use Wix or Purolator filters, just to keep the oil looking cleaner, even though i know it's good for MUCH longer.
The Toyota ATF is not a synthetic so I would recommned changing that as well before winter.

The down side to this is Toyota wants proof the oil was changed every 8000km or so.
No problem, I just go to my local automotice store buy 4 lites of oil and a filter, make a copy of the receipt, then take the oil back and get my $$$ back. I keep my receipts in a folder in the car just incase I ever have a problem I have proof oil and filters were replaced. That's good enough for ANY warranty. NO mfg can deny warranty for doing your own maintenance either at home or other shop.

[nsmitchell]

When switching over to synthetic, you are in effect, stopping your break in period because synthetics give such excellent wear protection. 8000 miles like 07WYarisRS did sounds like a good time to switch. I will be going Amsoil 2000 0W-30 with an Amsoil Ea filter. I will also be using the Amsoil engine flush. Not sure about switching the ATF though... You need to use a transmission flushing machine for that job. The mechanic might flip out when he doesn't see any throttle cable!

[tomjasz]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

When switching over to synthetic, you are in effect, stopping your break in period because synthetics give such excellent wear protection. 8000 miles like 07WYarisRS did sounds like a good time to switch. I will be going Amsoil 2000 0W-30 with an Amsoil Ea filter. I will also be using the Amsoil engine flush. Not sure about switching the ATF though... You need to use a transmission flushing machine for that job. The mechanic might flip out when he doesn't see any throttle cable!

AMSOIL SAYS

AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be?

A. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

Since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL.

[nsmitchell]

Originally Posted by tomjasz

AMSOIL SAYS

AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be?

A. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

Since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL.

Interesting info. I might just do that. I know that the improved lubrication from synthetics should improve mileage as well as reduce wear. I have also used Amsoil Performance Improver (PI) in my gas in the past. I stopped using it for no apparent reason. My brother uses it in his Scion XB and can see a reduction in MPG when he does not use it. You only use 1oz per tankful and it cost about $8.00 for 16oz. ($.50 per tank for 16 tankfuls) I'm going to try it again. My MPGs are running around anywhere from 28MPG to 36MPG at most. I know the stuff cleans and lubricates everything touched by gas such as your valves and valve seals, etc. I will post my results later.

[gonzo452001]

I use mobil 1 extended service in my 04 tacoma change it everly 5000miles used to use regular mobil 1 and change it everly 3000 miles i drive 70 miles a day so i change it pretty offen haven't got my yaris yet it looks pretty easy to change a lot easyer than my v6 taco and it holds almost 6qts i think the yaris holds almost 4qts so i will save oil and gas

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS

You are correct
Mobil1 Synthetic is a group III mineral based oil just like Castrol Syntec and Motul.

I think you're giving some bad poop on Mobil 1. Unless they've changed within the last few months, Mobil 1 is still a PAO based group IV.

If they have changed, I'd like to see the proof.

[ketel0ne]

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by ketel0ne

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

GF-4 is a specification. I'm wondering if it's a group IV based synthetic (true synthetic and not mineral oil based).

[07WYarisRS]

Originally Posted by ketel0ne

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

GF-4 is a specifcation and does not mean it's a POA based Synthetic,
Yes Mobil 1 still contains POA based synthetics in it formula but the higher percentage of base is synthetic petrolium oil (hydrocracked or highly refined mineral oil/crude stock)
the newest line of synthetic from Mobil 1 contain more Synthetic stock (POA) and Mobil guaranties performance and protection for up to 15,000 miles.

Read the MSDS sheets.

It's main base os hydrocracked mineral oil with synthetic additives just like syntec, Qstate, havoline synthetic and 99% of the rest of the synthetic out there.

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-Eng...SDS%20sheet%22

Don't listen to everything in Mobil's billion dollar advertizing.
I still agree it's a great oil and should be used instead of a group I or group II because it has much better cleaning and lubrication abilities then a strait conventional oil.
but there are better lubricants out there and like Amsoil and Redline they contain no mineral oil or mineral byproducts. They are the TRUE 100% synthetic. But they also cost more in most cases.
Then again with Mobil 1 over $7 a bottle it's not such a difference anymore

[ketel0ne]

For an enjoyable call, 1-800-ASK-MOBIL.

Is Mobil 1 a group 3 or group 4?

Answer: Blah Blah Blah, propreitary, blah synthetic, blah, high levels blah, blah blah blah. We are not going to tell you.

[Violin]

Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS

Then again with Mobil 1 over $7 a bottle it's not such a difference anymore

Yikes!

I buy a 5-quart bottle for $20. I got several for $17 on sale.

[static808]

greetings everyone!

quick question about amsoil: which type are most people using?? i'm torn between the ASL 5w-30 and the series 2000 0w-30. i'm not sure if im the kind of person that can change their oil just once a year (for peace of mind purposes), so i'm leaning more torwards the ASL 5w-30 with amsoil ea filter and changing my oil twice a year. will i see much of a difference if i plunk down the cash and get the series 2000, or will this setup provide superior engine protection already?? once again, thank you for any assistance you can AND have already provided.

--B

[stuffy]

8 months? not sure what i was thinking there, bit of a brain fart.
what i meant was 8000 km.

[Billstein]

Ever hurd of Royal Purple Full Syn.?
Friends of mine swear by it.
Bit pricey for me though..

[07WYarisRS]

Originally Posted by Billstein

Ever hurd of Royal Purple Full Syn.?
Friends of mine swear by it.
Bit pricey for me though..

I mentioned Royal purple in my first replay

It is a good lubricant but Royal purple in the past has show some quality control issues as I have seen personally.
I sent in a few samples to be tested and the results came back that #1 contents in bottle did notmatch grade on bottle.
#2 higher then normal amounts of water, copper were present.

Most oil companies will have some quality control issues but usually not two different oils tested at the same time.

FWIW
Even the mineral based Group III oils like Mobil 1, Stntec, Qstate synthetic, Motul, etc etc are still far better then a standard converntional oil. However because they still contain mineral oil they still suffer the break down, and diposits from mineral byproducts. The Added estersand POA do a much better job of keeping the engine clean but they just don't stand up like group IV-V lubricants do. Most group III oils still need to be changed at the mfg recommended time. Some cost slightly less then the TOP group IV-V synthetics. But if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a REAL synthetic a group III like Mobil 1 is the next best thing.
However if you figure the costs of spending $$$ on Mobil 1 every 8000km And Amsoil once a year or even twice a year. It's cheaper to use AMSOIL, REDLINE or ROYAL PURPLE.