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#1 |
![]() Drives: POLAR WHITE 2010 YARIS Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 11
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RUST PROOFING
Hello,
I've just ordered my Yaris, and the sales people are trying to sell me this new Rust Proof Technology. Some kind of Electrical Box which sends electricity through the metal in the car to prevent erosion. Just wondering if anyone has this? Is it worth it? or Should I just do the old fashioned way of rust proofing the car. Thanks D. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,054
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sounds like another bull**** way to get more money out of you IMO.
__________________
C-Lift ![]() -------------------------------------------------------------- Current Mods: MI Armrest; Full LED conversion (interior and exterior); RS spoiler; Tinted windows; Tanabe DF210 lowering springs; aftermarket door speakers; 12" RF P3 subwoofer with custom box wrapped in Neffy; seat covers; HID 8000K headlights; HID 3000K foglights; 13mm PG hub spacers; muffler delete with dual tip; eyelids; and.. A little red Domo mascot!
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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this has been around for years . Waste of money . Undercoating be better . Helps reduce road noise too .
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 163
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What is the old fashioned way? I suggest avoiding all dealer add ons- it's basically pure profit for the dealers with little or no benefit for the consumer.
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#5 |
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Banned
Drives: '10 Yaris5drHB+99 4runner LTD Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NE
Posts: 672
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hah hah
just send me your money I will guarantee no rust ... I promise they sell you on the idea it will stop galvanic corrosion due to different metals touching at the welds and seams. the thing is, there is no galvanic corrosion because they are the same metals touching. and the body is dipped in rust inhibitor base coat. you take 2 identical cars. one with this mumbo-jumbo on it, and one without. drive them in the same conditions for 12 years. at 12 years, both will have exactly equal corrosion and rust. BUNK Rustproofing a car requires GOOP...and because a good rust inhibitor needs to be viscous enough to seep into every nook and cranny, expect a bit of dripping for the first day or two. As for electronic rust proofing products, there is no scientific proof that these work in cars. the five-year warranty offered by some is not long enough to establish anything. Electronic rust control may work on boats and bridges for different reasons, but a car is an entirely different thing. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit. in a car, nothing completes the circuit. it cannot work, and does not work. Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 11-18-2009 at 10:40 AM. |
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