Advice Installing Shocks/Struts and Lowering Springs

[vaironl]

Hello All,

I feel bad for adding to the hundreds of threads regarding lowering springs and shocks/struts, but I do have a minor specific question.

I finally got all of the parts needed which are the Tein S-Tech and the Tokico Blues. I’ve been reading quite a lot of PDFs on how to do lowering spring installations and I’ve found so many examples of removing the springs, but I have yet to find a good pointer on how to actually replace the rear shock absorbers. I’m pretty sure it has to be fairly easy for the hatchbacks, but I can’t figure out what panels I’ll have to remove for the shock absorbers. I was reading the official Toyota repair manual and it only specifies the removal process for the Sedan.

I also wanted to confirm the following tools are what I need, disregarding the wheel removal process…
1) Hacksaw to cut bump stops
2) 9/16 sockets,
3) 9/16 box wrench
4) 19mm socket
5) 17mm box wrench
6) 6mm allen key

I’ve heard about using an offset wrench to avoid the cowl wiper removal process. Apparently a 17mm offset box wrench? I have an allen key but it has no 90 degree bend, seeing the “Tanabe DF210 Spring Install” thread it seems I will need one specifically with some kind of bend, am I correct?

Thanks a lot for the help!

[WeeYari]

Panels to remove: two small plastic access panels about the size of a pack of smokes on the top of the wheel arch in the hatch area. Pop them off to reveal the top shock nut.

[Exiwolfman]

remove the cowl it takes 10 min all u need is a 10mm socket and 14 mm for wipers makes life 100% easier u will still need a 17 mm offset and allen key , i think the hardest part is the sway bar link nuts they can be on really tight specially if u live in a region that has salt on the roads in winter..little heat helps if u have a torch. The rear is the easiest part of the job just look at how ur old springs are perched and install new same way , as for bump stops cut off at least 1 1/4 inch off .

PS dont forget a spring compress tool for ur struts in order to remove original springs in a safe way.

[Exiwolfman]

REMOVAL of the rear shocks ...got this of Toyota infostream

1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL
2. REMOVE REAR SEAT CUSHION COVER PAD SUB-ASSEMBLY (for Sedan Fixed Seat Type) 2007 MY Yaris [02/2006 - ]; SEAT: REAR SEAT ASSEMBLY (for Fixed Seat Type): REMOVAL+
3. REMOVE REAR SEATBACK ASSEMBLY (for Sedan Fixed Seat Type) 2007 MY Yaris [02/2006 - ]; SEAT: REAR SEAT ASSEMBLY (for Fixed Seat Type): REMOVAL+
4. REMOVE REAR ABSORBER CAP (for Hatchback)
5. REMOVE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER CAP
6. REMOVE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
(a) Support the axle beam with a jack. Insert a wooden block between the jack and the rear axle spring seat to prevent damage.

(b) Remove the 2 nuts while keeping the piston rod from rotating.


(c) Remove the cushion retainer and suspension support.

(d) Remove the bolt while keeping the nut from rotating and remove the shock absorber.

NOTICE:
Remove the nut on the bolt side because the one on the lower side is a jam nut.


7. REMOVE REAR SUSPENSION SUPPORT STOPPER
8. REMOVE REAR SUSPENSION SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

[vaironl]

Thanks WeeYari and Exiwolfman now I'm pretty sure I will be able to complete this install with minor bumps (that dam cowl wiper removal seems scarier than anything else). One last thing the popular “Tanabe DF210 Spring Install” thread seems to specify the 9/16 and 19mm sockets as deep sockets. I already have these, but they are non-deepsocket. Is that ok?

[Exiwolfman]

Originally Posted by vaironl

Thanks WeeYari and Exiwolfman now I'm pretty sure I will be able to complete this install with minor bumps (that dam cowl wiper removal seems scarier than anything else). One last thing the popular “Tanabe DF210 Spring Install” thread seems to specify the 9/16 and 19mm sockets as deep sockets. I already have these, but they are non-deepsocket. Is that ok?

u should be fine with shallow sockets and trust me the cowl is very easy to remove also will give u the chance to clean all the crap that gets trapped under, also the wiper motor has to come out ....its straight forward.

[CrankyOldMan]

What is the 9/16" for? All of the fasteners on our car are metric. Perhaps it's a 14mm? I just swapped my suspension over for the 5th time last week--I go back to stock for the winter--and haven't ever needed any fractional sockets. The rear shocks will require two 14mm wrenches to break loose the jam nuts, and a small adjustable wrench to hold the flats on the piston while you remove the bottom jam nut.

If you want to be able to go back to stock with a minimal amount of hassle, I suggest getting a second set of upper strut parts for your new setup: boot, bumpstop, top plate, bearing and nuts (see pic). Drop springs are short enough that you don't need a spring compressor to install them, and a second set of parts means you won't need to remove the OEM springs.

One bit of advice: do NOT allow the shock/strut pistons to rotate! The hex socket on the struts and the wrench flats on the shocks are there to give you something to break the nuts loose, as well as remove them. It's very tempting to hold the box wrench and turn the piston, but it can damage the seals and ruin the shock/strut.

A trip to Harbor Freight tools can set you up with some other "nice to have" items that will make the swap easier:

• Go-through socket wrench - this will allow you to remove/install the top nut on the front struts without removing the wipers or cowl. You can do it with an offset box wrench too, but it's much harder to keep repositioning the wrench.
• If you don't have a breaker bar, I suggest investing in one--it's the best $8 I've spent on a tool in a long time. There are also 1/2" versions, as well as longer ones, but a 17 or 18" one just fits in my toolbox, and a 25" can give you enough torque to start shearing/twisting/breaking things.

And as always, access to an air compressor and an impact wrench will make things much easier.

[vaironl]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

What is the 9/16" for? All of the fasteners on our car are metric. Perhaps it's a 14mm? I just swapped my suspension over for the 5th time last week--I go back to stock for the winter--and haven't ever needed any fractional sockets. The rear shocks will require two 14mm wrenches to break loose the jam nuts, and a small adjustable wrench to hold the flats on the piston while you remove the bottom jam nut.

If you want to be able to go back to stock with a minimal amount of hassle, I suggest getting a second set of upper strut parts for your new setup: boot, bumpstop, top plate, bearing and nuts (see pic). Drop springs are short enough that you don't need a spring compressor to install them, and a second set of parts means you won't need to remove the OEM springs.

One bit of advice: do NOT allow the shock/strut pistons to rotate! The hex socket on the struts and the wrench flats on the shocks are there to give you something to break the nuts loose, as well as remove them. It's very tempting to hold the box wrench and turn the piston, but it can damage the seals and ruin the shock/strut.

A trip to Harbor Freight tools can set you up with some other "nice to have" items that will make the swap easier:

• Go-through socket wrench - this will allow you to remove/install the top nut on the front struts without removing the wipers or cowl. You can do it with an offset box wrench too, but it's much harder to keep repositioning the wrench.
• If you don't have a breaker bar, I suggest investing in one--it's the best $8 I've spent on a tool in a long time. There are also 1/2" versions, as well as longer ones, but a 17 or 18" one just fits in my toolbox, and a 25" can give you enough torque to start shearing/twisting/breaking things.

And as always, access to an air compressor and an impact wrench will make things much easier.

This is also great advice, thanks a lot!
I never gave it thought but the 9/16 definitely puzzled my mind at some point. Also, thanks for the advice on not allowing the pistons to rotate, haven't seen that anywhere else. Because I haven't seen enough detail and images about this I'll try to make a thread detailing what I went through.

Now it seems there's really no hard part to this other than being careful to not damage any components.

[vaironl]

Tried it this morning unsuccessfully. I tried the easiest part first (rear shocks) and everything was going well until one of the said instructions weren't followed. I forgot to buy another 14mm wrench!! Not only that but the offset on the one I bought from amazon was 25 degrees and to big to go around to the second nut.

Here's one of the sets I bought: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2217-Ra...=offset+wrench

I will postpone this for next week. Hopefully I can get a friend to help me out because although it appears to be doable by one person is quite a lot of work.

[CrankyOldMan]

You can use a 14mm socket or an adjustable wrench on the top nut. Once you break the torque on them, the top one comes off with your fingers.

I can see how those wrenches would get in the way. Open-end style wrenches work better on the bottom nut because they're much thinner.

If you have a Harbor Freight, Big Lots or even a "surplus" store nearby, you can get inexpensive tools that will work for most DIY/hobbyist applications. The big money brands are more for professionals or shops that use them all day every day.

You'll probably want to have someone help you with this anyway--getting both springs in the rear takes some coordination to keep them from falling out, and getting the front struts through the top opening and starting the nut can be a pain on your own.

[vaironl]

Thanks again for the suggestion!

Got a friend to come by today at around 7 with only 2 hours of light. We got the front driver side installed with some trouble, but great install at the end. For the passenger side it was a bit to dark, but we gave it a try. Sadly the sway end links were really rusted on this side and the small hole for the allen key started to turn into a circle. Any ideas of how to get that off? (I do have another sway bar end link just in case)

My friend said we'll have to torch it tomorrow.

[Exiwolfman]

Torch and impact gun with vise grips or cutting wheel if u have new only problem now u have to do the bottom one too .

[vaironl]

Originally Posted by Exiwolfman

Torch and impact gun with vise grips or cutting wheel if u have new only problem now u have to do the bottom one too .

Impact gun? Don't you need to get the hex key in the middle?


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[Exiwolfman]

Yes but if that is rusted or round then use lots of heat on nut fast on and off with vise grips in the back to hold it from spinning and zap it with impact gun ....works 90% of the time

[Exiwolfman]

In always use heat on nut first than alenkey and open end wrench

[vaironl]

Thanks a lot for more tips, after this the rear ones should be a breeze. This is not really hard (except for remembering where everything goes) it's simply time consuming for someone with a limited toolset.


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[Exiwolfman]

I do it in the shop my car takes about just over 2 to do ...so far did it twice .

[vaironl]

Got it!!!

One question... I have the megan exhaust and it seems to rub on the spring or the part holding the spring. Should I just put a zip tie? It's making a rattling noise.

Will there be weird noises coming from the struts/shocks in the following week?


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