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#1 |
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Boxeo
Drives: 07 yaris RS Join Date: May 2006
Location: canada
Posts: 17
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need 17inch rim guidence
Will 205/45/17 tires on 17 x 7 inch rims with a 38mm cause any suspension problems with the stock lowering springs? (eg. rubbing, hitting the inner fender liner, ect. I've gotten mixed answers so could someone with the knowledge please school me on this.
Thanx |
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#2 |
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Boxeo
Drives: 07 yaris RS Join Date: May 2006
Location: canada
Posts: 17
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need 17inch rim guidence
"38mm", i mean 38mm offset
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#3 |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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It might be a tad tight in the front.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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#4 |
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You should be fine, your chances of rubbing the inner fender wall would probably fairly high with u-turns and really bad bumps. But 17x7's with 38offset should work fine.
Unless your going for show, i'd recommend 15's or 16's with sticky tires. But if your going for looks, then yeah. The yaris should be able to hold up to _ _x7.5/8 before concerns really start kicking in. But nothing shims, spacers, or camber can't fix. |
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#5 |
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Boxeo
Drives: 07 yaris RS Join Date: May 2006
Location: canada
Posts: 17
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need 17inch rim guidence
I'm putting on 17 because I got a set kickin around.
So with wheel spacers I should be OK all around? What size wheel spacers should I use?? My main concern is if I have a packed car and the wheels start rubbing in the front or the back. |
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#6 | |
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#7 | |
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der Zeck
Drives: '05 Audi A4 1.8t quattro Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 5,231
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Quote:
if you are running a 7 inch wide wheel a +38 off set is what you need... you said you are running a 205 something or other tire?... it is going to be a tad to small but it will be a mile away from rubbing.... I would go with the 215/40R17 get you with the correct rolling diameter, with no rubbing problems... I am running 15X7's with a +38 and I have 225/50R15 no rubbing problems so you will be fine, no spacers and you can have all the fat ppl you want in the back with no problems, I have loaded my yaris down a few times and I am running a MUCH wider setup no problems at all |
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#8 |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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The only problem that might happen is the on the front wheels rubbing on turns and such. The rears should fit fine.
And if it does rub then you'll prolly only need to kick them out 5mm.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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#9 |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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I thought the Yaris was a high offset car?
Why would you ever use spacers? |
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#10 |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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The stock wheels are +40mm. The 17's I believe are +50.
You use spacers so you can fit wheels on it that otherwise don't have enough offset to fit.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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#11 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
The lower the offset, the further the wheel sticks out from the car. Using a spacer pushes it even further. It's then less likely to fit. |
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#12 | |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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Quote:
It is about how far the hub mounting surface is from the centerline of the wheel. A +38 wheel's hub is closer to the brakes than a +50 offset is. This means that their is less space between the hub mounting surface and the brakes on a wheel with a +38 offset then their is on a wheel with a +50 offset. That is the problem here. There might not be enough space for the brakes to fit inside the wheel. A spacer would push the wheel out 5 mm, which should give the brakes enough space to fit inside the wheel. Hopefully though everything will fit inside the wheel so there is no need for a spacer. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=101
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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#13 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
a 17x7 with a 50 offset tucks further in than a 17x7 with a 30 offset. 20mm to be exact. I know that offset does not mean how much the wheel sticks out. But it directly affects it. Offset has nothing to do with brake fitment. It is spoke design. However, if your spoke design does not allow it to clear, a spacer would push the face of the wheel further away from the brake. This also effectively changes offset. The size of the hub does not change with offset. So the distance away from the brake caliper does not change. This is why manufacturers like Rays produce wheels with different Face's (same design) in order to facilitate different brakes. They change hub thicknesses to accomodate this. |
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#14 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota
Posts: 1,059
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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota
Posts: 1,059
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OMG, so sorry, I'm tired. You have it correct and I just repeated what you said.
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#16 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
It is not too difficult to calculate whether this would work. You take your original wheel width and offset. You take your new width and offset. (Width(new) minus width(old) ) / 2 = the offset difference. (in inches) Convert this to mm. 1 inch = roughly 24.7mm This offset difference is how much further on each side of the rim, you will be protruding compared to the old rim. So if you are concerned with rubbing on the inside...you take the offset of the original wheel and you subtract the offset difference to it. This will give you the offset needed to ensure no rubbing on the inside edge. If you are concerned with rubbing the fender, you would take the offset of the original wheel and add the offset difference. This gives you the offset for the new rim that ensures no rubbing on the outside edge. Example: Old rim is 15x6 with a 40 offset. New rim is 17x7 The offset difference is .5 inch or 12.8 mm. In order for the inside edge of the new rim to sit at the same place as the old one...the new offset would have to be +27mm. If you were concerned about the outside edge of the rim rubbing, then the correct offset of the new rim would be 53mm. Be careful calculating these offsets. In my example, if you had a 17x7 wheel and used a 27 offset, the wheel would literally be pushed outwards towards the fender about 1 inch. In order to really get a good idea of what fits or not, is to know what is borderling rubbing....and then you can base your calculations on that. Use the borderline rubbing specs as your "old wheel" and calculate your new wheel specs from it...giving a buffer area. |
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#17 | ||
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Only Happy When it Rains
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Quote:
Quote:
From the other comments you made, and the pic that is identical to the one I was using, you are agreeing with me, but I guess you just can't admit that.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
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#18 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
There is a fundamental difference in the way you are understanding it. Positive offset is when the hub mounting surface is near the road side of the rim. This has the effect of bringing the wheel further inside the fender. The higher the offset (positive), the more the wheel will sit in towards the car. I didn't contradict myself. If your offset is +50, and you put a 5mm spacer, your new offset will be +45...effectively changing the offset because your mounting surface is 5mm closer to centerline. However, if you had purchased the wheel direct from the manufacturer at a 45 offset, the rim would not have the same measurements. The hub thickness would be the same as a +50 offset...only the mounting surface would be 5mm closer to the centerline of the wheel. The lip on the wheel would be 5mm bigger. I'm not spouting a "guess" as to how this stuff works. I advise people on wheel purchases and give guidelines on width, tire size and offset all the time. |
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