Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[sqcomp]

What crossovers are you thinking of using? The thing is that you don't exactly know the values of the crossover components or how the different speakers will react...you CAN use the crossover, it just won't work as well as it could.

Don't take too much stock on the upper frequency range advertised by the manufacturer. We can't hear much past 18kHz.

[_S7V7N_]

It's the Hifonics crossover that came with the component set..Same one Derick has/had .



<--- using these now.

[derickveliz2]

I sold my passive x-overs to a fellow member here in Yaris world, even though he never paid me )o:

The problem is if you use the passive x-over, your new speakers have a tweeter integrated within, so you will cut all high frequencies and the new tweeter won't play at all. Your new speakers are Full range speakers does not require a x-over, it's less efficient than your old ones.

Why are you switching back to full range speakers instead your component speakers?

D.

[_S7V7N_]

Here's what i posted on Mike Stiers FB page : Hey Mike, I purchased the Hifonics 6.5 components March of last year, they're great, however one of them stopped working, when you push down on the front of the speaker right where the signal input goes into the cone it works great, sounds great no distortion what so ever. Could this be just a loose connection ?

His Reply : Mike Stiers Hi . Sounds like a short on the tinsel lead. Since you are out of your warranty period, I would suggest trying to repair the tinsel yourself.

Hmm then does anyone know the cutoff of the Crossover where the 6.5 connects too ? Cause i would want these speakers to play around 100 Hz - 3 kHz. I would think the tweeter would pick up some voice ? I'll test it later on and let you know if it works, Unless there's another way to tell where the cutoff is .

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

Unless there's another way to tell where the cutoff is .

I have no idea, S7V7N... very soon I'm taking mine out, do you want them?

D.

.

[_S7V7N_]

When you take yours out, holla at me bro. When i get back to Tx i'm gonna try to fix the tinsel leads on mine, but hell...I'd love another pair of them.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

When you take yours out, holla at me bro. When i get back to Tx i'm gonna try to fix the tinsel leads on mine, but hell...I'd love another pair of them.

Sure I'll let you know, but you pay for shipping!

D.

[_S7V7N_]

Hell as long as shipping isn't more than about 10 - 15 bucks..heck ya !

Matter of fact i'll paypal you 15 bucks when that time comes. I just checked on shippin it'll range anywhere from 5-10 bucks...so you can just pocket the rest ..

[sqcomp]

Hey D,

Spurring you on...I got the kicks mostly done today. I just need some sanding and a shorthair coat, then I'll carpet these bad boys.







Also got the sub enclosure put into the car. I had to look at clearance and placement issues for the amps...




^Yes, that is a mock S2b...I'd rather lug that around versus the real thing.

Speaking of the real thing, it looks like I received the #1 S2b from DD...

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Hey D,

Spurring you on...I got the kicks mostly done today. I just need some sanding and a shorthair coat, then I'll carpet these bad boys.

The kick panel looks GREAT, but... it's in the wrong Yaris... Jeje


You can keep the 100% mock-up of your DD amp, I'm going to keep the actual amp


D.

[sqcomp]

The thing is that you're set on the front sub. I can help to make it seemless from another location.

That being said, these kicks should fit your L6's...You can make these! If you want, I can do the flush baffles.

[derickveliz2]

I still have the idea of the sub in the front, My L6s will go in the OEM door locations. But thanks any way! your kicks look awesome!

D.

[TOLMACH]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I still have the idea of the sub in the front, My L6s will go in the OEM door locations. But thanks any way! your kicks look awesome!

D.

OEM door locations +1

[sqcomp]

Okay...more spurring you D...

Tonight after work, I've got a late night session at the shop. We'll see some sanding on the kicks and good progress on the sub enclosure. We should see THE cut for the trim ring for the sub and it's angled placement. I'll be trying to keep a similar angle for the amplifiers and the sub just for flow.

You MAY also see a Bit One make an appearance...

[derickveliz2]

Just show us a little BIT one!
How much more control will you have after adding a Bit One to your P-99? what are the pros?

D.

[sqcomp]

Well, the Bit One didn't make an appearance outside the storefront. We talked about placement and wire runs.

There was a lot of work to "finish" the kicks. All I really have to do now is to thread-sert the baffles and rattle can some black the baffles as well. Then it's carpeting for them.









We worked on the sub enclosure as well...





The next part is fleecing the ring. I had to let the wood glue on the supports cure. So I couldn't do too much tonight.

We're hemming and hawing about how to place the amplifiers...whether to angle them or place them horizontally. If we place them horizontally, we have enough space to have the S4b floating in between and "above" the two S2b amps...and it'll look like an entire heat sink...RAWR! :)

The Bit one will be on the cabin side of the pass through is what we're thinking about doing.

What is it going to do for me? The equalizer is 31 band 1/3 octave per output channel (in expert mode) that can be set for each individual channel or for linking the left/right respective channels (i.e. left and right front tweeters). TA adjustments are made in .2 dB increments to + or - 12 dB. Once you have all of your tuning done you simply finalize the setting to the processor and you are good. You can save the setting to you computer (just in case.) you have a total of four setups you can program in. Another nice feature is the Dynamic EQ for the subwoofer. For lack of a better term this is a highly adjustable loudness feature. Crossover Filter types are 12 / 24 / 36 / 48 dB Linkwitz & 6 / 12 / 18 / 24 / 30 / 36 / 42 / 48 dB Butterworth filters.

What does that mean? I'll have steeper crossover slopes, more specific EQ control, and TA control over the deck alone.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

OEM door locations +1

Several conditions for speakers in door versus kickpanels, I can see here:

Pros:
+Space, for feet and for my front sub
+For some reason I feel it makes the stage wider running off-axis in the OEM door location


Cons:
-Space, for some people is important.
-Speaker environment, I have the feeling that Yari's doors are not very good speaker boxes.
-Difficult to build & finish but not impossible


Probably there are more +/- but I think kick panels are great and much better for mid/bass, if it wasn't that I'm in love with the idea of having a subwoofer in front, I' will continue building my kickpanels. Every time I move the sub to the trunk I feel the Bass on my seat, when I move it to the front, I feel the bass on my body. (price less)

There for, I'm going to give up the idea and work around the OEM door locations and deal with it. I really want a sub in front!

Many people stated me that a good strong Midbass up front will deal having the sub in the trunk, Yes I agree, this time I'm going to follow what I feel/hear is more pleasant to me. Even though at the meet with other car audio enthusiasts a couple of guys commented that I had really good Mid/bass (one of them was a SPL guy) and now changing to the new L6s it's just going to get better.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Well, the Bit One didn't make an appearance outside the storefront. We talked about placement and wire runs.

There was a lot of work to "finish" the kicks. All I really have to do now is to thread-sert the baffles and rattle can some black the baffles as well. Then it's carpeting for them.

The next part is fleecing the ring. I had to let the wood glue on the supports cure. So I couldn't do too much tonight.

We're hemming and hawing about how to place the amplifiers...whether to angle them or place them horizontally. If we place them horizontally, we have enough space to have the S4b floating in between and "above" the two S2b amps...and it'll look like an entire heat sink...RAWR! :)

The Bit one will be on the cabin side of the pass through is what we're thinking about doing.

What is it going to do for me? The equalizer is 31 band 1/3 octave per output channel (in expert mode) that can be set for each individual channel or for linking the left/right respective channels (i.e. left and right front tweeters). TA adjustments are made in .2 dB increments to + or - 12 dB. Once you have all of your tuning done you simply finalize the setting to the processor and you are good. You can save the setting to you computer (just in case.) you have a total of four setups you can program in. Another nice feature is the Dynamic EQ for the subwoofer. For lack of a better term this is a highly adjustable loudness feature. Crossover Filter types are 12 / 24 / 36 / 48 dB Linkwitz & 6 / 12 / 18 / 24 / 30 / 36 / 42 / 48 dB Butterworth filters.

What does that mean? I'll have steeper crossover slopes, more specific EQ control, and TA control over the deck alone.

Nice! I see you took the flat face approach, very clever and easier to work with.

Bit One: mmm it's getting too complicated I'll leave that for the Pros! I like how easy is for me going through the P-99 features, I understand is not as complex, and like you told me once, it's simple and does a good job.

Keep the pictures coming!

are you giving up the spare tire space?

D.