I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 9 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-27-2010, 02:36 PM

Based on what you guys have said and what I've read, I'm pretty convinced I over tightened the flange and thus damaged the gasket. I was watching the oil while my car was idling and that's exactly where it was coming from.

Nexus1155 · 08-27-2010, 03:09 PM

well atleast its an easy fix, alot of places have Mr. Gasket material. I'd even ship you some if I didn't give the rest to my DSM buddy, but im sure you want it fixed ASAP too lol. The stuff I had for gaskets might have been a little too intense for just a drain though.

Hurry up and fix it so we can see some vids!!!! :)

pimp my yaris · 08-27-2010, 04:19 PM

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-27-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

Worst case I'll be doing that. I'll have to chisel off the JB Weld but eh. The banjo bolt is definitely leaking as well, and I can't reach it with sealant.

If you guys haven't figured it out, I'm desperate to NOT have to pull the turbo back out. The thought of doing that...

Yeah and Nexus, I'm as eager as you are dude. I have a boosted Yaris sitting in my driveway, and the only thing stopping me from driving it is a tiny oil leak.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I'm already almost done putting together my install guide, if anyone is interested. I tried to make it as comprehensive as possible.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-28-2010, 12:35 AM

Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO...

Took the car for a spin...

Drove conservatively to get some premium gas...

Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over!

I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car?

So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT.

I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?

kou · 08-28-2010, 01:17 AM

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-28-2010, 10:14 AM

Alrighty, rough draft of my install guide is done. It's a LONG read, but should be an interesting one.

Anybody that has some time available - read it and give me feedback please.

I'm also working on a pre-install guide that includes hooking up some gauges, the AEM FIC, apexi turbo timer, and anything else that comes to mind.

Also - the install guide is a .docx. I changed the extension because YarisWorld wouldn't let me upload a .docx? So if it doesn't open, change the extension. Obviously, you need Word 2007 as well.

Videos and more pictures... Expect them tomorrow.

Nexus1155 · 08-28-2010, 10:49 AM

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

PETERPOOP · 08-28-2010, 12:59 PM

Congrats! You did what most people wouldn't and couldn't do (including me)! Dyno that puppy and upload some videos.:)

Yoda · 08-28-2010, 06:13 PM

woot happy for you man GOOD JOB!!!!

why? · 08-28-2010, 08:31 PM

lol, welcome to the joys of a turbo car. Just make sure there is enough oil and coolant, and enjoy!

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-28-2010, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

Yeah word really was a poor choice, I really wanted to embed the pictures but it was a nightmare... Probably gonna make a PDF or something. The guide will be going to zage, but I'm going to post it up here as well. I'm hoping with a guide that's super in depth, maybe it'll sway some people to take the plunge like I did. It's much more reassuring to do something you know that has been done successfully... and nerve-racking when you're the one entering the uncharted waters first.

Really though, how many turbocharged Yaris' are there in the states currently with me included, five?

Also, thanks a lot for the cheers of joys guys, but apparently I'm not quite there yet...

Was driving to work today, oil idiot light started flashing and then stayed on, accompanied by a CEL. I'm still leaking oil BAD. Had to stop and buy 4 quarts of oil. Immediately threw 2 in. Had to throw the third in on the way home. Hopefully I was prompt enough in dealing with it. I was watching my oil pressure closely and was getting worried... sure enough.

So, it's time to stop beating around the bush and deal with this the right way. I have all day available to me tomorrow, so the turbo + downpipe will be coming out.

This time around, I'll seal the banjo bolt + washers, return flange, return gasket, return bolts, etc. with silicone sealant. I really should have done this the first time around, but I had no idea this was going to happen. Will also inject the turbo with the crappy oil I had to buy and look for leaks. If anyone else has any other ideas or thinks silicone is going to suck for this use, let me know immediately.

On the positive side, I was able to (hopefully) drive this thing without doing any damage, so it'll be a lot easier to be patient now. I still can't even begin to describe how much fun it is to drive this car. I swear, everytime I see the needle on my boost gauge pass the 0, I get such a huge smile lol. Between my exhaust and turbo, the noise and feeling when you hit the throttle.. is intoxicating

On a side note, I felt it was time to change my ride details.

pimp my yaris · 08-29-2010, 08:02 AM

Sounds awsome. Congrats Jerzy you got the jump on me. My pocket book is holding me back right know and Im currently looking for someone to weld up my stainless steel down pipe.
That banjo fitting shouldnt need any sealent. Their should be one copper washer on each side on the bajo. For a total of two. These washers get squeezed when tightening down the bolt and the washers get slightly deformed to make a perfect seal between the banjo bolt, banjo line and your turbo. This line is under 60 psi of oil pressure. Thats what most toyota's put out. Their is no silicone or jb weld in the world that will seal that.
Make sure their is one copper washer between the line and the top of the bolt and one between the line and the turbo. This line should be snug and not crazy tight! If the washers are to deformed or squeezed out of place they will not seal.
Also make sure the threads in the turbo and the bolt are not cross threaded or stripped. If the washers do not look like washers anymore because they have been overly squeezed, replace them. Make sure you buy copper washers from a decent auto parts store. Steel washers will not work. These copper washers also seal the brakes lines on your car. They hold over 1000 psi. So if its done right they will hold that 60 psi of oil with no problems and no sealent. Not to sound like a ass, but i have been a mechanic for a long time at several different dealer ships. Please throw out that JB weld. Its whats called a temperary fix to a permanent problem. Its time consuming and a pain in the ass to remove the turbo and check all this shit but you will be so happy when you can cruise all over and not worry about oil leaks.
Best of luck Jerzy. I also want to see a video of this thing trowing down some rubber for insperation.

stevethegimp · 08-29-2010, 09:37 AM

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-29-2010, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevethegimp

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

pimp my yaris · 08-29-2010, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

Yes some silicone rtv sealent is a good idea on the return line gasket. And check to see if that bajo bolt cracked as well. It is not as stong as a regular bolt because it has been holowed out to allow oil to flow through it.

Nexus1155 · 08-29-2010, 11:25 AM

I don't know if theres any silicone that will handle the heat back on the turbo.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-29-2010, 02:25 PM

I just got the banjo bolt off and have no idea why it was leaking. Crush washers aren't deformed, banjo bolt isn't cracked... Could it be I just didn't have it tight enough? It seems so unlikely, because before taking it off I tried tightening it first and it just wasn't happening.

I'll update when I get the return flange off. Chiseling off JB Weld takes a good deal of time.

08-28-2010, 08:31 PM	#155
why? Only Happy When it Rains View User's Garage Drives: Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: harnett county NC Posts: 4,097	lol, welcome to the joys of a turbo car. Just make sure there is enough oil and coolant, and enjoy! __________________ Colin Chapman disciple

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08-27-2010, 02:36 PM	#145
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Based on what you guys have said and what I've read, I'm pretty convinced I over tightened the flange and thus damaged the gasket. I was watching the oil while my car was idling and that's exactly where it was coming from.

08-27-2010, 03:09 PM	#146
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	well atleast its an easy fix, alot of places have Mr. Gasket material. I'd even ship you some if I didn't give the rest to my DSM buddy, but im sure you want it fixed ASAP too lol. The stuff I had for gaskets might have been a little too intense for just a drain though. Hurry up and fix it so we can see some vids!!!! :)

08-27-2010, 04:19 PM	#147
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

08-28-2010, 12:35 AM	#149
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO... Took the car for a spin... Drove conservatively to get some premium gas... Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over! I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car? So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT. I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?

08-28-2010, 01:17 AM	#150
kou View User's Garage Drives: 08 lb Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: nj Posts: 935

08-28-2010, 10:49 AM	#152
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	I skimmed it over, is this guide going to ZAGE? Looks pretty in depth though which is good. LOL I like the use of gaybolt.jpg.. I don't know if you were trying to, but you might want to try to embed the pics? I don't know if you did because Word did something funny with converting the file, but yeah I'll read it when i get back from the garage.

08-28-2010, 12:59 PM	#153
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	Congrats! You did what most people wouldn't and couldn't do (including me)! Dyno that puppy and upload some videos.:)

08-28-2010, 06:13 PM	#154
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	woot happy for you man GOOD JOB!!!!

08-29-2010, 08:02 AM	#157
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Sounds awsome. Congrats Jerzy you got the jump on me. My pocket book is holding me back right know and Im currently looking for someone to weld up my stainless steel down pipe. That banjo fitting shouldnt need any sealent. Their should be one copper washer on each side on the bajo. For a total of two. These washers get squeezed when tightening down the bolt and the washers get slightly deformed to make a perfect seal between the banjo bolt, banjo line and your turbo. This line is under 60 psi of oil pressure. Thats what most toyota's put out. Their is no silicone or jb weld in the world that will seal that. Make sure their is one copper washer between the line and the top of the bolt and one between the line and the turbo. This line should be snug and not crazy tight! If the washers are to deformed or squeezed out of place they will not seal. Also make sure the threads in the turbo and the bolt are not cross threaded or stripped. If the washers do not look like washers anymore because they have been overly squeezed, replace them. Make sure you buy copper washers from a decent auto parts store. Steel washers will not work. These copper washers also seal the brakes lines on your car. They hold over 1000 psi. So if its done right they will hold that 60 psi of oil with no problems and no sealent. Not to sound like a ass, but i have been a mechanic for a long time at several different dealer ships. Please throw out that JB weld. Its whats called a temperary fix to a permanent problem. Its time consuming and a pain in the ass to remove the turbo and check all this shit but you will be so happy when you can cruise all over and not worry about oil leaks. Best of luck Jerzy. I also want to see a video of this thing trowing down some rubber for insperation.

08-29-2010, 09:37 AM	#158
stevethegimp View User's Garage Drives: '09 Blazing Blue 3D LB Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 64	Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

08-29-2010, 11:25 AM	#161
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	I don't know if theres any silicone that will handle the heat back on the turbo.

08-29-2010, 02:25 PM	#162
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I just got the banjo bolt off and have no idea why it was leaking. Crush washers aren't deformed, banjo bolt isn't cracked... Could it be I just didn't have it tight enough? It seems so unlikely, because before taking it off I tried tightening it first and it just wasn't happening. I'll update when I get the return flange off. Chiseling off JB Weld takes a good deal of time.