I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[xbgod]

Yes, sometimes they can be a bare to deal with. But I find in most cases it's all about approach. But like any company theres good days and bad days. For me I've had no issues dealing with them. If you feel your getting the run-around ask for Greg Nakano and tell him your issues. should resolve most issues.

XBG

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Two things...

First. Could anyone who has a meth kit installed show me how they have their tank mounted? I'm struggling to find a spot, but I'm pretty sure I need to get creative with brackets somewhere in the trunk.

Secondly, I'm almost positive I can't make past 4.5 psi of boost. I've been wondering about this for awhile, and it seems to max around there. I was flooring it earlier today and I still got the same results. I'm thinking I extended the actuator on accident when I had to disassemble the turbo. Think it's worth adjusting/shortening the actuator a bit to see what happens?

[pimp my yaris]

Yes it sounds like the wastegate isn't closing completely. Thats way to low. I had trouble trying to get mine to boost under 10psi. I kept shooting to 12psi due to a restricted wastgate. Now I max at 8psi.

[pimp my yaris]

I did call AEM tech line and they were very helpfull and they know their shit as well. I retarded my timing 2 degrees under high engine load using the timing map with the FIC. I dont think their is anything the E-manage can do that the AEM/FIC cant do. I have had very good luck with this thing considering this is the first piggy back I have ever tuned. If I upgraded to a stand alone, their is no doubt it would be AEM.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Been talking to PETERPOOP the last few days and he brought up a really good idea that I had, until recently, ignored.

Originally, I was under the impression that a boost controller was used merely to raise boost without having to change out the spring in the actuator. However, I didn't realize they could potentially be used to optimize a turbo setup. It seems that by using a boost controller, you're able to keep the wastegate completely closed until desired boost is reached. With just the wastegate, it should begin opening way before maximum boost is reached, thus diverting some exhaust gas too early...

So if the above is correct, this essential means quicker spooling, yes? What do you guys think? I'm always looking for ways to get the most out of my setup, since there isn't much else left to do other than head work / building an engine.

[Bluevitz-rs]

100% agreed.

If you aiming for 8psi, the waste gate will start to open at say 4-5psi and slowly open until 8psi is approached wasting exhaust energy. With an ELECTRONIC boost controller in the system, the waste gate will remain closed utilizing all the exhaust energy until 8psi is achieved.

For Ex.

Without the electronic boost controller, 8psi is only achieved at 3500RPM.
With the electronic boost conroller, 8psi is achieved at 2500rpm.

[cali yaris]

^ Yes. Did Peterpoop happen to mention that I'm the one who told him that recently? LOL

An example using World Electronics (Chris Rado) boost controller:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yes Garm.

My only question is why didn't someone point this out sooner? This seems like a huge improvement. Even that figure shows a stupid amount of additional power being made.

Gonna look into some electronic ones. Any suggestions?

[Bluevitz-rs]

AEM

Sold at MI too!

[PETERPOOP]

Yes Garm, I mentioned you! My guru. lol. Bring those zage kits in! Let's do this

[cali yaris]

haha "Guru", I just learned from other people, I think we all do.

Focus, no one ever asked a question about boost controllers before.

"the truth is out there" -- if you know how to Google.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I have a bit of a conundrum...

My car is stuck in open loop all of the sudden. I have no idea why it is, but now I can't boost because it goes LEAN. Anyone have any ideas why it suddenly decided to stay in open loop? My thought is it has something to do with driving cycles and the ECU seeing boost, as this is the longest I've driven without pulling terminals off the battery. I'm sure I could probably do just that and it would reset, but this is certainly a curious case. No CELs either, and my turbo timer is getting feedback from the AFR sensor still.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Ok this situation is baffling, but incredibly awesome. My car is still doing the same thing. I pulled the AFR plug just to make sure the ECU throws a CEL, and it does. So... Something is happening that's forcing the car into open loop without any CELs! This is an optimal situation, and I wish I could figure out why it's happening for future reference. I have no idea where to even begin looking though.

I'm going to just tune the car instead of resetting the battery. If it swaps back to closed loop at some point - no biggie.

EDIT: As soon as I plugged my FIC back in and started the car, the issue resolved itself. I'm still clueless as to what I just witnessed, but I would love to find out. There must have been some criteria the engine failed to meet to throw itself into closed loop. The catch would seem that whatever it is doesn't cause a code though...

Oh and also - I was reading the service manual and noticed the AFR sensor heater operates between .9 and 10 Amps. A code is thrown if the current drops below .8A. Could it be possible to greatly limit the current that reaches the heater? My thought is that maybe, just maybe, we could limit its performance enough to prevent the AFR sensor from functioning correctly, thus putting the car in open loop.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I'm assuming no one understands what the hell I've been talking about lol.

Anyways, there must be something wrong with my AFR sensor. Started the car up today, and it did the open loop thing. It started open, warmed up, went closed, then around 115F water temp it opened again.

Pulled my FIC bypass plug, put it back in, problem solved. Drove to class and got P2238 when I was almost there. The car went open loop, I cleared the code, and back to closed. On the way home, no code but it just suddenly got stuck in open loop again. The whole thing is so strange, but I can't be bothered with crap like this.

I've pulled my AFR sensor plug and am going to tune the car in open loop. I should have done this awhile ago, instead of messing around with the FIC. This is tried and true, and a CEL that doesn't cause limp isn't the end of the world.

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds very similar to my problems. My car stayed in closed loop but my factory O2 sensor was going wacky. While driving it was OK but when hot at idle it was very slow to respond. Sometimes it would go so lean it would dye out. I think the location of the o2 had something to do with it. Mabe if it was located before the turbo it would be OK. I have removed the o2 sensor and tuned in open loop. Much better now. Still need some bigger squirters though.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

WOW I should have tuned the car like this sooner. It's soooo easy. Not to mention it does in fact feel like it drives better.

Honestly, I think this is the way most people should consider using. Besides having a constant CEL, the only other very slight downfall is a SMALL loss in fuel economy. If you tune the car around 14.7 out of boost, and richer during boost, the loss will be minimal though.

Also - just got my cheapo manual boost controller today (Joe P, ball and spring type). Since I'm tuning I feel a little more comfortable using it, so I'll install it tomorrow. Should be interesting to see what happens with spooling once I get it set to the right psi.

Will post up my tune once I'm thoroughly satisfied with it. Should be very helpful for all future Zage users, but only if you're tuning the car in open loop.

[cali yaris]

^ Excellent! I got five more Zage kits in today.

[Freedan]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ Excellent! I got five more Zage kits in today.