I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

The more I think about it, the more I think you're right...

PCV being clogged can't get oil in the charge piping, especially when there's none in the MAF piping.

So this means one of two things. Either the oil level issue, or my seals are blown. I don't want to accept the latter, but I don't think that's the case anyways because I'd have lost more oil (?).

I'm going to tap my block sometime this week. We'll see what happens.

[cdydjded]

BTW what part on our car are you calling a PCV? Also turbo there is a big misconception on what a turbo seal is. Just to let you know a turbo has no seals in the sence that there are made from gasket material or rubber o ring. Everything on a turbo is made from metal like brass or steel. If you in & out of oil supply has to much psi or too little flow the only place oil can go is out the turbine side ot compressor side. Technicaly a turbo has bushings that kit oil in the oil chamber.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

BTW what part on our car are you calling a PCV? Also turbo there is a big misconception on what a turbo seal is. Just to let you know a turbo has no seals in the sence that there are made from gasket material or rubber o ring. Everything on a turbo is made from metal like brass or steel. If you in & out of oil supply has to much psi or too little flow the only place oil can go is out the turbine side ot compressor side. Technicaly a turbo has bushings that kit oil in the oil chamber.

Thanks for the info, I was under the impression that there WAS some sort of gasket material in use for the seals.

As for PCV hose, I'm talking about the hose that connects to the MAF piping. It looked like I was running with it kinked for some time.

[cdydjded]

Disconnect that hose from the intake pipe. Plug the pipe & install a small filter like I did.
IMG_1484.jpg

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright well here's my tune for anyone interested. I'm pretty satisfied with it at this point.

Specs:
-AEM FIC Fuel map
-Zage Turbo Kit
-AFR Sensor unplugged
-1ZZ Injectors (240-260cc; stock: 200cc)
-MBC set to about 8 psi (probably irrelevant)
-Automatic (should work just as well for manual)

I've set this tune up to get both the best of performance and fuel economy. At any point outside of boost, I've aimed for 14.7 (stoich) for emissions and fuel economy purposes. Here's how I have boost arranged...

1 psi - low 14s, high 13s
2 psi - Around 13.5
3 psi - low 13s, high 12s
4 psi - 12-12.5
5 psi+ - Around 11.5

I thought this was pretty reasonable considering after a couple of months driving around without a tune, stoich seemed to be fine up to 5 psi. Obviously the greater the air is compressed, the more heat is produced, so additional fuel (for cooling) should be added. I've definitely noticed a performance increase by running richer AFRs as well.

Hopefully this tune will be largely plug and play, but if not, I'd like to point out how I went about this. ANYONE can do this (with a wideband, of course).

-Hook laptop up to FIC to log the run (I never used the internal logger).
-Log the run. I honestly just did this during normal driving. You're going to want some spots where you're boosting, and simply cruising.
-Open the log up in excel and hide all data except RPMs, fuel trim, wideband, and engine load.
-Look for areas in the log where the breakpoints on the fuel map approximately match up. Then look at the fuel trim on excel and the map. Subtract points from the map at that location to lean the mixture, add points to richen the mixture. I never added/subtracted too much at once - you only want small changes until you reach your desired AFR.

***This is a weird glitch in the coding of the FIC I discovered (pimp my yaris also had this problem). Everywhere you see a .8, leave it alone. It's simply there to prevent the following. Apparently, when the FIC is fueling and it gets dropped to 0 (i.e. accelerating then letting off the throttle) it freaks the hell out. I noticed it was just dumping fuel at AFRs richer than 10. My engine was stuttering badly until I replaced all the zeroes with .8.

At this point, the only way I can make a Zage turbo kit install easier is by showing up and doing it myself lol.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any problems that may arise from using my tune. It's tried and tested, but not stupid-proof.

[cdydjded]

Dam I should have mentioned to you about the 0 in any cell. I too had the same problem of hesitation until I changed the cell from 0 to .8 of greater.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

No problem, pimp my yaris more or less pointed it out when we were chatting. Now everyone knows - it is a pretty weird problem though.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

As some of you may know, I've been having problems with my tune suddenly becoming substantially richer with colder weather. I now know for a fact why this is happening, and figured this would be great to know for anyone who intends to do their own tuning.

In a nutshell, the problem is New Jersey's crappy seasons. I was reading into spark plugs and found an interesting point on NGK's site that confirmed my suspicions. In general, fuel injected engines will richen the mixture during colder weather to compensate for denser air. Ok, no big surprise. However, the way my tune is set up is a problem now. The FIC doesn't allow zero values or negative values in the fuel map without causing huge engine hesitation. So leaning out the mixture is out of the question.

I was driving today and realized the ECU is doing what it's programmed to do. Then it hit me... I HAVE 1ZZ INJECTORS INSTALLED. Without an AFR sensor to correct the mixture, it's adding fuel based on quantity of air and calculating the duty cycle as if 1NZ injectors were in.

I'm going to swap them out tomorrow. However, this has me slightly concerned as to whether or not the 1NZs will max out by 8 psi of boost. I guess I have no choice but to try

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ That was the problem.

I'd also like to debunk the whole 1NZ injector maxing out thing once and for all. 1NZ injectors should be good for up to about 10 psi of boost. However, it's not that simple if you want to run a safe AFR. For example, the first point the duty cycle maxes is at 7 psi @ 5000 RPMs. This assumes a target AFR of 11.5. It's still possible to maintain 11.5 AFR at about 10 psi @ 3500 RPMs as well. You could probably get away running a little leaner under full boost (low 12s). It all really depends on how hard you drive the car.

This means larger injectors aren't needed for low boost applications (8-9 psi) unless you're redlining the car all the time. Even 10 psi will be safe. If you're tuning open loop, I definitely recommend NOT switching the injectors. At below freezing ambient air temps, the ECU was richening up my cruising mixture to as much as high 12s. In other words - I was wasting a ton of gas

It's so much fun being the one who has to make the mistakes first

[cali yaris]

^ sorry but I find this confusing. You said:

For example, the first point the duty cycle maxes is at 7 psi @ 5000 RPMs.

which is nowhere near redline, and nowhere near 10psi. then you said:

This means larger injectors aren't needed for low boost applications (8-9 psi) unless you're redlining the car all the time.

can you clarify please?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Sorry I'm just so used to looking at the FIC fuel maps when I'm sure many others haven't even seen what they look like. I'll break this down as much as possible and assume nothing.

Firstly, it's widely accepted that 11.5 is a good AFR for boost conditions. In order to maintain that ratio, the duty cycle (time the injectors are held ON), must be increased as engine load and RPMs increase. Simple concept - the harder the engine works, the more air is needed, and thus the more fuel is needed. Varying load/ RPM combos need different values. For example, 2 psi of boost @ 5000 RPMs is NOT going to need the same duty cycle for 2 psi of boost @ 1200 RPMs.

That's why the duty cycle maxes at different RPMs for each pound of boost (starting at 7). In this case you can say the fuel needed to maintain 11.5 at 7 psi @ 5000 RPMs is close to the fuel needed at 10 psi @ 3500 RPMs - the maximum duty cycle (100%).

Here's a couple of examples of duty cycle maxing to show the linear trend it follows (approximately):

6 psi @ about redline
7 psi @ 5000 RPMs
8 psi @ 4400 RPMs
9 psi @ 4000 RPMs
10 psi @ 3500 RPMs
11 psi @ 3200 RPMs

The last three are theoretical, but should be pretty accurate.

Hopefully that'll clear it up a bit. I'm struggling to explain this right now

[pimp my yaris]

Me too ^

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Hey all

Been awhile since I updated. As some of you may be aware I've had an ongoing "boost leak" problem pretty much since I've finished the install. This week I finally got around to running some boost leak tests and found a whopping 10 leaks. Some of them were pretty significant. Needless to say the car idles substantially better now. Unfortunately... My leak problem remains.

I'm baffled and really need some help. What I'd like to think this means is that the exhaust is somehow the culprit... Whenever I get on the throttle I hear a ton of air escaping. I've combed the damn thing over so many times and found no noticeable air leaks that would hurt spooling. I'm beginning to wonder if my 2.25" crush bent catback is just not providing enough breathing and air is being forced out of whatever little crack it can find...

Anyone have any ideas, things to try, how to accurately test for exhaust leaks etc? I'm tired of being stuck at 5 psi.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Holy thread revival LOL

easiest way that I know of to find exhaust leaks is to get the car up on stands, start it and let it idle and have someone with a rag block off the tailpipe. You'll hear the puffing sound out of any leak in your exhaust.

[cali yaris]

2.25" shouldn't be the source of the problem, unless it's blocked somewhere inside.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

My current running theory is at least one of the cats is clogged from the oil burning caused by the whole zage oil pan fiasco...

Sorry for the necromancer antics. Personally, I like this thread

[cali yaris]

I like it too. I just had to replace (remove, actually) a cat from a '79 Spitfire. It was 90% blocked with oil and gunk. Totall fixed the problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Had the cats removed and that was what I expected to see. They looked brand new still. However, removing them freed up a noticeable amount of power all across the band (especially at higher revs).

But I solved the problem anyway lol. Apparently that air escaping was just the wastegate cracking lmao. Inexperience...

The actual problem was the truboost. I must have wired it wrong because as soon as I plumbed a manual boost controller in the line I was spiking up to 11 psi. Adjusted it and now running 8-9 psi. Feels great man