New Exhaust OBX RACING

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Rigaud

Hi Greg, thanks for the info!

Sorry Greg, I saw your response after I did it. I have a 2700 rpm cold start up and it lasts 20-30 secs and goes down but warm idle is at around 1000rpm. I'll adjust the idle with the engine and ignition off. Proper idle will solve that high idle Code I got, settle it at around 750rpm.

It's ok, no harm done. Mine ran high until and drove the ECU crazy hunting around in vain for an idle until I figured it out.

One hint: make damn sure that the allen wrench you put into that little screw fits tight, because it does not want to turn, and you do not want to strip the head. Use a magnifying glass to determine that all of the epoxy is knocked off. Penetrating oil can help it to break free. When it moves, it will make a satisfying cracking sound and you're home free. I found that about one counterclockwise turn closes the butterfly enough to get a good stable idle. After I got mine where I wanted it, I simply put a little dab of clear silicone caulk to make sure it stays there.

Now I need to get a quicker response, anything I can do or add (module) to rectify the response time?

Cheers
John

By quicker response, do you mean quicker opening or quicker closing?

My Yaris has always been slow to close (long throttle hang time) from the very first day I bought it brand new bone stock. I'd get one of those aftermarket throttle control thingies except there's no way to confirm if they will actually cause the butterfly to close faster than stock. So I've gotten used to compensating by letting off the gas first without touching the clutch pedal, waiting a beat, and then shifting.

Greg