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Old 05-17-2009, 09:56 AM   #1
IllusionX
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I hope you guys do understand the problem is NOT the clutch itself right? Anyways... Wolfwings, if you wanted the rev to drop faster, a lighter flywheel would cure your problem.

Beware, if you suck at driving stick, you will suck even more with a lighter flywheel.

My friend says his yaris have problems with the clutch, so i test drove his car. It was perfectly fine.. So i guess i've got the trick with the yaris DBW and clutch. Although, i'm very FAR from having mastered it yet.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:10 AM   #2
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One way or another speed costs money?in this case the good news is that revving the shit out of the poor little engine may only cost you a new clutch the bad news is you might have destroyed something in the tranny.
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:27 PM   #3
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I used to shift at redline all the time. Shifting out of first into 2nd while at redline can cause problems occasionally(or rarely in my case). This car doesn't like it, especially with the quick shifting. However, I've gotten good at backing off when it's about to grind and will quickly pop it into 3rd instead of 2nd.

Another problem I had, at highway speeds, dropping it into 3rd gear sometimes will cause it to grind. But once I had the transmission oil flushed (at Toyota) it solved that problem.

I wish the clutch/pedal was as intuitive as my old Civic. Hopefully Toyota will take note if they ever decide to cater to manual drivers who like to the wring the most out of their engine.
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Old 05-17-2009, 06:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post
I used to shift at redline all the time. Shifting out of first into 2nd while at redline can cause problems occasionally(or rarely in my case). This car doesn't like it, especially with the quick shifting. However, I've gotten good at backing off when it's about to grind and will quickly pop it into 3rd instead of 2nd.

Another problem I had, at highway speeds, dropping it into 3rd gear sometimes will cause it to grind. But once I had the transmission oil flushed (at Toyota) it solved that problem.

I wish the clutch/pedal was as intuitive as my old Civic. Hopefully Toyota will take note if they ever decide to cater to manual drivers who like to the wring the most out of their engine.
You don't drive a honda like you drive a Toyota. The thing about Hondas, you can depress the clutch only about 1 inches.
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post
<snip>
I wish the clutch/pedal was as intuitive as my old Civic.
<more snip>
Define "intuitive" as it applies to a clutch pedal. What could be more intuitive than "clutch in = disengage" and "clutch out = engage"?
Or did you mean "forgiving" ?
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Old 05-17-2009, 11:23 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by SailDesign View Post
Define "intuitive" as it applies to a clutch pedal. What could be more intuitive than "clutch in = disengage" and "clutch out = engage"?
Or did you mean "forgiving" ?
No, he meant intuitive as in user-friendly. I drove Civics for a lot of years and the Honda clutch (or MT process, if you want to call it that) is like knife in butter. By comparison the Yaris MT takes a little longer to get used to
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
Anyways... Wolfwings, if you wanted the rev to drop faster, a lighter flywheel would cure your problem.

Beware, if you suck at driving stick, you will suck even more with a lighter flywheel.
Lighter flywheel is a maybe, but they're such a pain to install it's unlikely. I will admit, the Yaris clutch is one of the few that only has maybe... an inch of travel LEFT instead of only an inch of travel used to get to fully decoupled. At the same time, it seems to have a bit of 'dead space' at the start.

Most other manual-addicts are used to using vehicles where that 'dead space' is all they had to use to shift, I think is the gotcha. Even my 944 was like that, the first inch or two was all it took, the other four was just to give your foot more room to work while the clutch was decoupled.

I will vouch though, Any->2nd seem to be the (vastly most common) 'grind point' for this transmission. Dunno if 2nd is just weak somehow, or oddly engineered, but it's the only gear I ever experience any grind into. May also just be the only gear with a large enough 'gap' from those on either side to cause the issue with the relatively heavy (seriously, the 4.0l engine in my Jeep is only around the same weight!) stock flywheel.
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