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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 198
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I'd love to see a schematic. I would be willing even to have some PCBs etched for people as drop-ins. Does this just drive the On/OFF LED? What about the SET light?
EDIT: I see you mentioned it can sense the difference between the switches, so I assume this drives both LED's. Again though, if you post the schematic I can etch actual circuit boards (instead of perfboard) for you or anyone else if there is interest. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
The problem with driving a SET LED, based on just the switch, is that there are too many conditions where you could press the switch, but not really be "set". Tonight I should have a chance to drop the schematic into ORCAD. If there was enough interest in the modules I figured I would do a run of boards. |
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 198
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
I started off thinking I would use a flip flop, but you can't drive anything unless you change to a switch with a second set of contacts and you also have to maintain a high impedance to not confuse the ECM. The microcontroller is definitely overkill, but they are under $2. |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 5-door Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey, BC Canada
Posts: 176
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For controlling an indicator light- has anyone considered a DPST switch for on-off? Wouldn't work for the stock cruise switch, of course, but it should be OK for the improvised setups. Too simple?
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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With a DPDT switch you'd still need a circuit to toggle the LED on and off. The circuit becomes simpler (a flip flop using two transistors or one IC), but is still required, as the switch is a momentary input, rather than a toggled one.
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 5-door Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey, BC Canada
Posts: 176
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Quote:
If someone can come up with a tidy module to make this work, it could be a minor cottage industry. It should work with the OEM switch installations, as well as the improvised ones. |
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#8 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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#9 |
![]() Drives: na Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 6
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Nice work. Please consider the fact a car power supply is really "dirty". You'll have to take bursts and surges into account. I'd add a nice big elco to VDD (at least 100uF 35V) and a 100nF 50V X5R/X7R ceramic capacitor close to the controller.
Are you measuring battery voltage at p6 ? -> Add 100nF over R7. |
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