When should I start using synthetic oil??

[SilverGlow]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

The synthetic oil in the US is "fake" so just keep running your favorite "conventional" API SM oil and you're good to go. The Syntheics here are at most semi-synthetics and have marginal improvements in cold viscosity and sludge generation and cleaning. The Two Top picks in a premium oil would be: Penzoil Platinum, and, Mobil-1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 - a much better oil than regular Mobil-1 5w-30. If you want to spend 8-10 bucks a litre then you can step up to "real" synthetic from Europe which would be: Motul, Total, Fuchs, Pentosin - just be prepared to purchase online. Your oil filter choice is MORE important; ditch that cheap Thailand Toyota filter F-A-S-T and get a Purolator pure one or Mobil-1 or Bosch.

I could not DISAGREE MORE.

There are MANY true fully synthetic oils sold in the USA, and made in the USA.

Don't you realized that even with the "inferior" US sold synthetics, your Yaris will still last 300,000+ miles?

And there is nothing wrong with the Toyota filters for the Yaris.

You constantly vomit wrong information.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by SilverGlow

I could not DISAGREE MORE.

There are MANY true fully synthetic oils sold in the USA, and made in the USA.

You constantly vomit wrong information.

Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 is not synthetic,
from the Valvoline website:

MYTH: There is not any real difference between conventional and synthetic motor oil.
REALITY: There are not any real differences in the basestocks used to make synthetic and conventional oils, but there are differences in the additives and process used to make the final products.

Continuing:
Castrol Syntec 5W-30 is not synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is not synthetic. Royal Purple street oil is NOT synthetic.

- Alternatively: Motul 300v is grpV synthetic, Total Quartz Future 9000 is Grp iv/v synthetic, Fuchs Silkoline is grp V synthetic. Redline is synthetic. Some Amsoil products are synthetic, but mainly group iv which is inferior PAO base. PAO is not a good lubricant, though its a good additisation carrier and works welll when blended with group V base stocks.

Mobil1 4t racing is full synthetic and 9 bucks a quart.

I'm not saying the USA sold "synthetics" are bad oils, just why pay the cost and not get the benefits of a REAL synthetic? You want a USA synthetic-beating oil for cheap, buy Rotella-T CJ4/Sm 10w-30. ABout 3 bucks a qt in gallon jugs. Too thick for a Yaris, IMO.

Filters: The Toyota Denso Thailand filters have NEVER worked for me, across multiple trials and vehicles, and thats all that matters to me. I just want enthusiasts to be aware that I have encountered problems and this might help them solve their problem. The WIX #51396 have worked well and are recommended.

As for vomiting incorrect info, I'll leave that to you.