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I didn't now there was an actual formula, but I bet it changes with FF, FR, MR, and RR types of cars, and changes again when you figure the original weight to weight ratio (dead vs rotational), and yet again when you figure the RPM's your car runs at. My car, for example, is about 2,100 lbs plus me, and you could probably guestimate about 200 lbs or so are rotating or moving, and it is a FF, and I find I get most power at or above the 3K mark, so if it gets down to 2K, I am usually down shifting, to keep it between 2K and 4K, sometimes higher if I am racing it to the next corner, or passing, or whatever. Then you have to figure how much the engine is working to get air in and out, and all of that fun stuff. In the end, it really comes down to "test and check", meaning put the stupid part on, and see if you notice a difference or not. My headers make my car loud, and I can feel the car needs more RPM's to get going, but it gets those RPM's a lot easier, so it was worth it to me. Same with the intake and muffler. I also put a stronger battery in, and put high quality iridium plugs in. Just my preferances. Along with Penzoil Full Synthetic, ($20 for 5 qts at Wal-mart) and a fram filter because the Mobil stuff they put in my car was BLACK, even from day 1, and I paid the extra $8 for the good stuff. In my opinion, I feel my car is now working slightly more efficient, and my MPG's show that. Even with racing it, I still average 38 mpg's.
That electric motor thing is a great idea, except that it has already been done by Honda, (I think that's the company, anyway's) and it is GREAT except that it costs so much money to do, it isn't worth it in the end.
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