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#1 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, Meteor Metal Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 60
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I have done some research in the last week regarding oil viscosity, looking at cold flow, cold pumping, and viscosity in centistokes.
i took this information from the manufacturer data sheets, from their websites. German castrol is far too thick, i was surprised at its ratings for being a 0w-30. i was also surprised at the viscositiy ratings for what i thought were run of the mill conventional. Pennzoil YB was pretty good, coming in with low numbers like Penn Plat. i am currently using castrol edge, because i fell for the marketing, i am going to be changing my oil this weekend (wed/thurs for me) to formula shell synthetic 5w-20. it is by far the lowest viscosity 5w-20 i found. with GC coming in at a 60,000 on cold flow properties at -30c, formula shell synthetic (from its datasheet) comes in at -arround 9400 at -35c. thats all i am concerned with. im going to give it a try. one thing i did learn after comparing everything, is that marketing plays a huge roll, and that whatever you use, it will be just fine. they are all so close together, it makes almost no difference. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 3DR 5M Bayou Blue; 09 Fos Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 622
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Dont fall for the BITOG bull. Edge is a superior oil with stroong ADDS pack and long drain capability and cold flow in the 5w-30 wt close to 0w-20. I would run the 5w-30 edge though - its pretty much a "strong" 20wt. Its also easily good for 7500+/6 mo OCI in any circumstance. Given its cold flow, its majority REAL synthetic base, whereas the Shell is prob a slack wax group iii+ not bad, but not a premium $$ basestock - A good $4/qt oil though. BTW, EDGE is on sale at walmart for 26.50 in my town for 5 qt jugs ($5.30/qt - not bad for a extended drain oil (ACEA A5 that meets corvette spec)
Last edited by TheSilkySmooth; 08-27-2009 at 09:55 AM. Reason: ++ vette spec |
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, Meteor Metal Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Castrol Edge 5w-30: cSt @40* C = 54.1, cSt @100*c = 9.8, crank viscosity @ -35*c = 4075, pumping viscosity @-35c = 11524. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20: cSt 40*c= 46.8, cSt 100*c= 8.4, crank visc= 4250@-35c, pump visc 9700@ -35. the best one i found was FormulaShell Synthetic 5w-20, but i cant get that here other than from a wholesaler by the case. FormulaShell 5w-20: cSt @40c = 46.5, cSt @100c = 8.7, crank visc= 3480@-35c, pump visc = 9300 @-35c i would bet mobil1 would have similar properties, but their data sheets do not provide all of his information. what did surprise me was how "thick" Amsoil is when its cold, and also how thick royal purple is as well. amsoil did no provide a cold pumping viscosty, but royal purple comes in at 22,000. well above any of the other group 3 synthetics. i dont really care about additive packs, etc. they are all good enough if the have the API ratings, and the Ilsac ratings. they are all so close together anymore. i was only looking at cold flow poperties. how well the oil could be pumped and how well it flowed in cold, cold weather. My car is parked outside all winter long, with no block heater or even a place to plug one in if i had one, so i need an oil that will still flow very well even when its -30* outside. ps, idont know if those measurments are what i should be looking at. im sure the lower cSt number = "thinner"/ more fluid/ less viscous. and i think that the crank and cold pump numbers = lower is less viscous. 1= water that kinda thing. |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 11
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Being a new owner of a 2007 yaris, and reading the TSB, I just got of the phone with Toyota (800-331-4331) and had the rep pull up the TSB on his own with out me telling him the tsb number (I played dumb, and said I heard of a TSB about oil on the net), after a brief hold while he went to check more in depth about the TSB, he stated that use what the manual and cap says, and that the TSB was either being recalled, and or was canceled/discontinued by Toyota, but some dealers have some knowledge of it and make reference to it to some customers. So his recommendation was stick to the cap and manual says. So after reading the countless post and Toyota’s verification, I will just stick with what the cap says I guess.
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