How to ground my Amp on Yaris Hatchback

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by RUFFSTUFF

Not pulling punches here... It is just plain stupid to perform any any electrical wiring with the battery connected. Takes 30 seconds to disconnect the negative cable... The spark here vs. the spark there concept is totally erroneous. The spark at the negative terminal that occurs when reconnecting the battery is not an issue... the spark occurs at a point where current normally flows, and is usually small unless you have a large load that is just waiting for the current path to be restored (NOT A GOOD IDEA). The spark that occurs when you're connecting a piece of equipment and you are too lazy or too stupid to disconnect the battery first, will usually put a large current where you don't want a large current (I.E. A SHORT) ---> fuses blow and or said equipment or something else stops working.

I understand the safety issues... I'm arguing semantics here....

what type of load does say a 1,000w Class D amp or a 300watt A/B amp seriously have when it is not turned on... As in, the car is off, they key is not set to ACC, the radio is not turned on... but the battery is still connected.

I mean... shit... a bank of eight 2200uf caps doesn't really constitute a "load" when we are talking about kilowatt systems, 100+ amp fuses, and 4awg & 1/0awg cables.

I really have trouble believing that a short would EVER occur due to this, or that fuses would blow.

I honestly thing all the "car turned off, battery disconnected... yadda yadda yadda was introduced back in the day to prevent people who didn't know what they were doing from burning up cars and killing themselves.

[RUFFSTUFF]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

I understand the safety issues... I'm arguing semantics here....

what type of load does say a 1,000w Class D amp or a 300watt A/B amp seriously have when it is not turned on... As in, the car is off, they key is not set to ACC, the radio is not turned on... but the battery is still connected.

I really have trouble believing that a short would EVER occur due to this, or that fuses would blow.

I honestly thing all the "car turned off, battery disconnected... yadda yadda yadda was introduced back in the day to prevent people who didn't know what they were doing from burning up cars and killing themselves.

Under most circumstances working hot on stereo equipment is not necessary. To bypass the most standard of safety protocols just because you have trouble believing a basic principle, is quite laughable. It takes about 100mA of current to cause death under worst case conditions. Certainly 1A is enough to permanently fry you like bacon. Considering an average car battery can put out 600CCA, the math is not in your favor in the case of a short. Of course, since you're not so good with electrical theory and the possibility of shorts occurring while doing work on live wiring, chances are you also suck at math so I'm probably just wasting my time... No wait... I am certainly wasting my time... nuff said once again.


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[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by RUFFSTUFF

Under most circumstances working hot on stereo equipment is not necessary. To bypass the most standard of safety protocols just because you have trouble believing a basic principle, is quite laughable.

To not address the question at hand because you are too lazy, or ignorant to answer the question (tho not willing to admit it), and would thus rather bash somebody for asking questions is also "quite laughable".


World is in a sad state when people are no longer allowed to ask questions.

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