Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[jroy]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by jroy

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.

[theFlash]

First I have to say thanks to CTScott for the guide. Pictures and accurate location, plug and wire made it so much easier than the usual "installer-speak", just listing wire color.

I just installed a Hornet (DEI) remote starter/alarm/keyless entry combination in a 2007 Yaris for a family member that had power locks standard, but no remote. It went pretty smoothly but I thought I'd add my thoughts incase someone searches for this in the future.

Obviously, I had to find additional wiring information due to the alarm components not being covered in the guide. Most was straight forward, but I had to search 10+ threads for the domelight wire as I found it listed as "fusebox, pink wire". Well there's probably more than 10 pink wires in that location. For the record it's the pink (-) in a six pin plug, with only a blue (+) and a white/black stripe occupying the plug. See pic here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...e+light&page=3

Other items were how to take some things apart. Plastic is easy to break, so I wasted time searching multiple threads for the correct way to take things out. I hadn't worked on a Toyota in years and amazed that a lot of things just snap together. But knowing exactly how saves fiddling time.

Glovebox: slide small rod off on lower right-hand side and then just squeeze the sides and pull-out one side, then the other.
Lower steering column shroud: 2 screws obscured by steering wheel, 1 screw underneath right of column height adjustment. Then squeeze sides of lowershroud (there are 2 clips on either side). I made the mistake of sticking my hand underneath and trying to flick the tab off on one side. It broke off, fixed with glue, but was needless.
Small pull out drawer in front of fuse box: squeeze and pull out one side, then other.

The door sill is only held in by clips, just pull up. This allows you to remove the driver's side kick panel to get to wiring for keyless entry. Kick panel has a clip on it's left side and a bolt on the right side. I just pulled on the left and then rotated it out of the way.

For console, just pull lower center colsole panel (panel below hvac controls). Then pull the larger piece around the gear-shift plate. I didn't need to go any further than this for console.

One other item that sucked my time was finding a suitable spot to get wires from the engine bay to the cabin. While most keyless remotes have one 12+ contant power requirement, my combo unit had a "relay" satellite that required two 12 + constant power, so I had to run the second direct to the battery, plus there's the hood pin switch (grounds when hood up, can't start or sets off alarm) and siren. There's an excellent spot on the passenger side, very high up on the firewall partially obscured by wire looms. It's a hole with a rubber plug. I drilled the plug which became a grommet. This is why I had to remove the glove box. Be carefull to drill straight or more towards the passenger side as there's HVAC pipes very close on the driver's side of the hole in the cabin.

Other than that, there were just a few things with the unit I bought, such as programming the unit to do a double (-) pulse for opening all doors. Initially it would only open and lock the driver's door.

I would also say that if it's your first time doing this (as it was for me), take it easy and do it in two days. I rushed it in 1 day, finished at about 2 am and although satisfying to test it out and have it work, I paid for it the next day. After soldering, taping, contorting, I over-exerted myself. I woke up at 4 am with pain bad enough in my right arm to obviously wake me up, lol. A couple ice-packs later and I could actually sleep. So don't do as I did and do what I say instead...lol.

[Skylinecar1982]

I have a 09 yaris s with immobilizer and factory keyless. I am trying to install a 1155tl but am having two problems.

One I can't find a negative pulse trigger from the factory keyless?? or postive.

And do I have to use the key to unlock the door once remote started???


Thanks
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