Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

I have it working but now there is a new problem I cannot get it to respond when I program the unit for more then one pulse. I can get it to work on one pulse but when I go to unlock the car it will shut off. Hence why I need it to work with more then one pulse.

[Skylinecar1982]

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.