Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

I have it working but now there is a new problem I cannot get it to respond when I program the unit for more then one pulse. I can get it to work on one pulse but when I go to unlock the car it will shut off. Hence why I need it to work with more then one pulse.

[Skylinecar1982]

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

I am trying to figure out how the door control receiver knows that the engine is running. The door control receiver only has a 2 wire connection to the body ECU. The red wire is the door control receiver input wire. You could try popping that pin to see if blocking comm in that direction keeps it from being told that the engine is running.

[Skylinecar1982]

Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.