I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

BTW what part on our car are you calling a PCV? Also turbo there is a big misconception on what a turbo seal is. Just to let you know a turbo has no seals in the sence that there are made from gasket material or rubber o ring. Everything on a turbo is made from metal like brass or steel. If you in & out of oil supply has to much psi or too little flow the only place oil can go is out the turbine side ot compressor side. Technicaly a turbo has bushings that kit oil in the oil chamber.

Thanks for the info, I was under the impression that there WAS some sort of gasket material in use for the seals.

As for PCV hose, I'm talking about the hose that connects to the MAF piping. It looked like I was running with it kinked for some time.

[cdydjded]

Disconnect that hose from the intake pipe. Plug the pipe & install a small filter like I did.
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[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright well here's my tune for anyone interested. I'm pretty satisfied with it at this point.

Specs:
-AEM FIC Fuel map
-Zage Turbo Kit
-AFR Sensor unplugged
-1ZZ Injectors (240-260cc; stock: 200cc)
-MBC set to about 8 psi (probably irrelevant)
-Automatic (should work just as well for manual)

I've set this tune up to get both the best of performance and fuel economy. At any point outside of boost, I've aimed for 14.7 (stoich) for emissions and fuel economy purposes. Here's how I have boost arranged...

1 psi - low 14s, high 13s
2 psi - Around 13.5
3 psi - low 13s, high 12s
4 psi - 12-12.5
5 psi+ - Around 11.5

I thought this was pretty reasonable considering after a couple of months driving around without a tune, stoich seemed to be fine up to 5 psi. Obviously the greater the air is compressed, the more heat is produced, so additional fuel (for cooling) should be added. I've definitely noticed a performance increase by running richer AFRs as well.

Hopefully this tune will be largely plug and play, but if not, I'd like to point out how I went about this. ANYONE can do this (with a wideband, of course).

-Hook laptop up to FIC to log the run (I never used the internal logger).
-Log the run. I honestly just did this during normal driving. You're going to want some spots where you're boosting, and simply cruising.
-Open the log up in excel and hide all data except RPMs, fuel trim, wideband, and engine load.
-Look for areas in the log where the breakpoints on the fuel map approximately match up. Then look at the fuel trim on excel and the map. Subtract points from the map at that location to lean the mixture, add points to richen the mixture. I never added/subtracted too much at once - you only want small changes until you reach your desired AFR.

***This is a weird glitch in the coding of the FIC I discovered (pimp my yaris also had this problem). Everywhere you see a .8, leave it alone. It's simply there to prevent the following. Apparently, when the FIC is fueling and it gets dropped to 0 (i.e. accelerating then letting off the throttle) it freaks the hell out. I noticed it was just dumping fuel at AFRs richer than 10. My engine was stuttering badly until I replaced all the zeroes with .8.

At this point, the only way I can make a Zage turbo kit install easier is by showing up and doing it myself lol.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any problems that may arise from using my tune. It's tried and tested, but not stupid-proof.