Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[hatch2008]

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hatch2008

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

What's the model number of the one you bought? It looks like their install manuals are available on their website.

[samltd]

Hi,

I'm trying to install an Avital 4003 remote starter add-on module with a Fortin Key Override All transponder key bypass.

I need help to figure out how to connect the remote starter/transponder bypass to the wires shown by CTScott in his manual.
So far I identified Avital and Fortin Installation instructions to match CTScott's manual

Avital 4003
Primary harness (H1), 9-pin connector

H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM -
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM -
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) -
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (+/-) ACTIVATION INPUT -
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/8 Black (-) CHASSIS GROUND CONNECTION - Ground in DIY manual
H1/9 White (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT - (+) Factory configured - (+) Parking lights wire in DIY manual

4-pin satellite harness diagram

1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT - ?
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - ?
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT - ?
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT - ?

Heavy gauge

1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982
2 PURPLE (+) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT - Starter in DIY manual
3 ORANGE (+) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT - Accessory in DIY manual
4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

Remote start harness (H2), 5-pin connector

H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - ?
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - Tach signal in DIY manual
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Brake switch in DIY manual
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Hood Safety Switch in DIY manual
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?


Fortin Key Override All

Purple/White RX Data In - RX in DIY manual
Yellow/Black RT Data Out - RT in DIY manual
Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?
Green Key Sense - Key Sense in DIY manual

Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground


Thanks

[CTScott]

H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual

That seems strange, but it appears that to have the horn honk, you have to purchase the additional module. I would measure continuity between this pin and ground to see if that really is the case (it should jump from an open circuit to 0 ohms when the horn should honk).


1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982

Green has worked for most, but if for some reason yours is like his, where the IG1 and IG2 seem to be reversed, you can swap it. With most systems, the IG1 and IG2 relays are activated simultaneously.

5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

As above.


4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?

The battery power location noted in my PDF is correct for these two.


H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?
An optional output that can be used for various functions such as turning on the defogger.


Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?

Connect to the second status output (H2/5) and in the configuration mode, configure it for latched, rather than pulsed output.



Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground

Connect to same power/ground points as the remote starter.

[samltd]

I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by samltd

I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx

Either should work. The defogger (-) wire is the black wire on the defogger switch, BTW.

[samltd]

Thanks, I have few more questions.

Running a wire behind the A/C panel to the switch, or better trying to find the wire's other end and to connect over there?
The neutral switch is necessary for an automatic?
Where the hood switch goes actually and where do I pass the wire from the remote start module to it?

Regards.

[hatch2008]

this is the by pass im useing and im using type 1 wire diagram.