Rebuild Time - Toyota Yaris Forums

cali yaris · 02-09-2011, 09:43 PM

^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice).

cdydjded · 02-09-2011, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice).

No you do not. The factory sleeves can & will accept an overbore of .5mm.

xnamerxx · 02-10-2011, 01:29 PM

Overboring it should only be done if needed, imo not worth the several hundred dollars in machine work if all you really need to do is finish hone it a little. Just check the wear on the top and bottom of the bore.

Keep your compression in the 9-9.5:1 range if your going to be running the pressure below 14 psi. Remember a loss of compression ratio will hurt power when not on boost so that area below 2500 rpms will suffer when you drop the compression ratio.

I don't know If ARP studs are worth the additional cost if your power outputs are going to be below 300 hp. I haven't heard of anyone stretching the stock head bolts or blowing the stock gasket from power. The stock head gasket is designed to last 200k miles so it has to be extremely resilient.
Oh yeah last thing to remember when choosing pistons and bearings. 2616 piston material will not and I repeat this will not last more than 50k miles before needing to be replaced. As well as bearings with high copper content are very soft and wear in about the same pace. So if you want this engine to last longer than 50k miles choose bearings with high AL content and a piston with 4032 alloy.

Does the engine have a metallic tapping that follows rpm? Or does it simply sound like rattling?

Yoda · 02-11-2011, 07:42 PM

Was annoyed by the sound so i called my bud over and he brought his engine lift thingy. First day we just diconnected pretty much everything from the engine. Just now we were gonna pull it out and then i found what was making that noise. There was two nuts on the engine mount that was alittle loose

. So with every vibration of the engine it would make that noise. Only thing i could think of is that when Toyota replaced my transmission two years ago they messed something up. Gonna call them tomorrow and see what they say.

02-09-2011, 09:43 PM	#1
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	^ If he oversizes, he'll have to resleeve? That would be an added expense. (but the added displacement is nice). __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-11-2011, 07:42 PM	#4
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Was annoyed by the sound so i called my bud over and he brought his engine lift thingy. First day we just diconnected pretty much everything from the engine. Just now we were gonna pull it out and then i found what was making that noise. There was two nuts on the engine mount that was alittle loose. So with every vibration of the engine it would make that noise. Only thing i could think of is that when Toyota replaced my transmission two years ago they messed something up. Gonna call them tomorrow and see what they say.

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02-10-2011, 01:29 PM	#3
xnamerxx 0-60 in slow Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: so cal Posts: 926	Overboring it should only be done if needed, imo not worth the several hundred dollars in machine work if all you really need to do is finish hone it a little. Just check the wear on the top and bottom of the bore. Keep your compression in the 9-9.5:1 range if your going to be running the pressure below 14 psi. Remember a loss of compression ratio will hurt power when not on boost so that area below 2500 rpms will suffer when you drop the compression ratio. I don't know If ARP studs are worth the additional cost if your power outputs are going to be below 300 hp. I haven't heard of anyone stretching the stock head bolts or blowing the stock gasket from power. The stock head gasket is designed to last 200k miles so it has to be extremely resilient. Oh yeah last thing to remember when choosing pistons and bearings. 2616 piston material will not and I repeat this will not last more than 50k miles before needing to be replaced. As well as bearings with high copper content are very soft and wear in about the same pace. So if you want this engine to last longer than 50k miles choose bearings with high AL content and a piston with 4032 alloy. Does the engine have a metallic tapping that follows rpm? Or does it simply sound like rattling?