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Old 05-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #1
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 291
One thing I have learned over the years buying cars is to be prepared to get up and walk out the door. Don't feel you have to buy anything.

Don't tell them you need a car, don't tell them you are going to pay cash, nowadays I wouldn't tie up 15k-16k if I am only paying .9% interest etc. But that is up to you. Save the cash thing until you have gotten their best last botton price and then use that to knock it down a little more. Some dealers don't care either way.

There are sites out there that can tell you what the dealer paid for the car, then it it is just a question of how much you're going to pay over their invoice.

And just because you got the price you wanted from the salesman/woman you will then face the finance manager who is going to try to upsell you all kinds of stuff you can/can't live without. Scotchguarding, rustproofing, transparent film paint protectors, extended warranties etc.

Just be prepared to walk if you are not !00% comfortable. Any "deal" only good today will probably be good tomorrow.

Good luck, cheers
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #2
nookandcrannycar
 
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws!
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Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEexpat View Post
One thing I have learned over the years buying cars is to be prepared to get up and walk out the door. Don't feel you have to buy anything.
. Or hang up the phone without making a purchase if you are doing the whole thing by phone/fax as Absolutely Red 12 did.

Quote:
Don't tell them you need a car, don't tell them you are going to pay cash, nowadays I wouldn't tie up 15k-16k if I am only paying .9% interest etc. But that is up to you. Save the cash thing until you have gotten their best last botton price and then use that to knock it down a little more. Some dealers don't care either way.
The only thing is, if you finance the car, then you have to spend the extra money to get collision and would only come out ahead if the after tax return on the money the car cost represents = more than the cost of adding collision insurance. I'd rather pay cash, not have collision, and rely on my driving skill to keep me free of damage to the car....betting that I won't need to write a check for damage or a new car. However, I probably wouldn't feel as I do if I had to drive during the winter in your area.

Quote:
There are sites out there that can tell you what the dealer paid for the car, then it it is just a question of how much you're going to pay over their invoice.
Invoice doesn't include any holdback arrangement between the manufacturer and the dealer (if there is one), but knowing the invoice price is definitely better than not knowing.

Quote:
And just because you got the price you wanted from the salesman/woman you will then face the finance manager who is going to try to upsell you all kinds of stuff you can/can't live without. Scotchguarding, rustproofing, transparent film paint protectors, extended warranties etc.
LOL. The upsell person (not the finance manager) re my Yaris looked like Kate Upton....and I had an older saleswoman directly before that....and the dealership I purchased from is in a fairly conservative area.

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Just be prepared to walk if you are not !00% comfortable. Any "deal" only good today will probably be good tomorrow.


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Good luck, cheers
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