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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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Every few years or so, we get a day where we hit 120f with humidex, but that's rare.
Usually we'll get 5-10 days of 110f temps with humidex every summer. 3 weeks ago or so we had 5 days straight of 113f with humidity, it was nasty outside. OP, as for the issue at hand, the main question is, when did the problem actually start happening? Or did you do all the mods at the same time?
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
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#2 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: MR2 Spyd/Type R/Yaris/Civic Si Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 479
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Quote:
Quote:
In actuality here were the problems I encountered: -ARP exhaust manifold/head studs wouldn't install in the two outer locations (where the factory studs were (so right now for the DC Header I'm running the inner 3 head studs from ARP and the outer two head studs are factory) -The Red Silicone rad hose from the head to the rad cap housing,..... doesn't fit the housing (its too big around) ( I notice in other peoples install pics they aren't running that hose and it makes sense why) -The DC Sports header debacle with the O2 sensor bung being too close to one of the downpipe bolts -The "Odyssey" battery (Sears Diehard Platinum) although a "standard" 35 size is actually marginally taller than the factory battery and therefore is a VERY tight squeeze for both the factory battery bracket and clearance to the Ultra Racing strut brace. -I also had to fabricate my own Crankcase vacuum line because the Intake manifold side wouldn't fit the Tooter nipple(too small) (although the nipple for the EVAP vacuum and the Brake booster, both fit perfectly) then of course I also forgot to re-connect the wiper motor so I had to tear the cowl off a second time to re-connect the plug. Will |
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