New Exhaust OBX RACING

[Rigaud]

Hi Greg, thanks for the info!

I installed my OBX exhaust line last night with a Magnaflow Cat and resonator. I cut the resonator shorter to fit, the one I had was too long. All rewelded like the way it was purchased. My header, a 4-1 of low quality (better then stock manifold) was missing the bung for the sensor, another item to drill a hole for and mig weld. Got it all done and I was pleasantly surprised with the front to rear line. No drumming at all or resonance through the floor. Nice deep sound up to 2500 - 2700 but higher then that and it's too loud for street driving. Gonna pick up some medium and fine stainless steel wool and cut open the muffler. Might redirect the internals depending how it flows too.

As for the 1ZZ TB, that went well and I really don't understand why people use a union to bypass the coolant lines. One of the hoses is placed just right and long enough to simply cancel one hose and use the other to connect in a loop. Voila.......solved. Removed the epoxy on the idle setscrew but haven't turned it yet. I did the chip swap while everything was plugged in. Drilled the rivets, swapped and new rivets. I messed up my intake tube so I made the stock tube and airbox fit, no issues with anything at all. That's temporary till I get it done right with my K7N cone filter.

Sorry Greg, I saw your response after I did it. I have a 2700 rpm cold start up and it lasts 20-30 secs and goes down but warm idle is at around 1000rpm. I'll adjust the idle with the engine and ignition off. Proper idle will solve that high idle Code I got, settle it at around 750rpm. Now I need to get a quicker response, anything I can do or add (module) to rectify the response time?

Cheers
John

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Rigaud

Hi Greg, thanks for the info!

Sorry Greg, I saw your response after I did it. I have a 2700 rpm cold start up and it lasts 20-30 secs and goes down but warm idle is at around 1000rpm. I'll adjust the idle with the engine and ignition off. Proper idle will solve that high idle Code I got, settle it at around 750rpm.

It's ok, no harm done. Mine ran high until and drove the ECU crazy hunting around in vain for an idle until I figured it out.

One hint: make damn sure that the allen wrench you put into that little screw fits tight, because it does not want to turn, and you do not want to strip the head. Use a magnifying glass to determine that all of the epoxy is knocked off. Penetrating oil can help it to break free. When it moves, it will make a satisfying cracking sound and you're home free. I found that about one counterclockwise turn closes the butterfly enough to get a good stable idle. After I got mine where I wanted it, I simply put a little dab of clear silicone caulk to make sure it stays there.

Now I need to get a quicker response, anything I can do or add (module) to rectify the response time?

Cheers
John

By quicker response, do you mean quicker opening or quicker closing?

My Yaris has always been slow to close (long throttle hang time) from the very first day I bought it brand new bone stock. I'd get one of those aftermarket throttle control thingies except there's no way to confirm if they will actually cause the butterfly to close faster than stock. So I've gotten used to compensating by letting off the gas first without touching the clutch pedal, waiting a beat, and then shifting.

Greg

[Rigaud]

Originally Posted by tooter

It's ok, no harm done. Mine ran high until and drove the ECU crazy hunting around in vain for an idle until I figured it out.

One hint: make damn sure that the allen wrench you put into that little screw fits tight, because it does not want to turn, and you do not want to strip the head. Use a magnifying glass to determine that all of the epoxy is knocked off. Penetrating oil can help it to break free. When it moves, it will make a satisfying cracking sound and you're home free. I found that about one counterclockwise turn closes the butterfly enough to get a good stable idle. After I got mine where I wanted it, I simply put a little dab of clear silicone caulk to make sure it stays there.

By quicker response, do you mean quicker opening or quicker closing?

My Yaris has always been slow to close (long throttle hang time) from the very first day I bought it brand new bone stock. I'd get one of those aftermarket throttle control thingies except there's no way to confirm if they will actually cause the butterfly to close faster than stock. So I've gotten used to compensating by letting off the gas first without touching the clutch pedal, waiting a beat, and then shifting.

Greg

Thanks Greg.

I'll continue this dialogue we got going on my thread so we don't throw this one off the rails. hehehe

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...172#post739172

[07dirtyaris]

I just installed the OBX exhaust. I paid 175 including shipping from Sparktec. I couldn't pass it up for that price. It is a Cat delete full exhaust. It measured 2 1/4 OD and just under 2 1/8 ID. Hangers were all in the right spot. O2 bung was there, but will def need a non fouler since I set off they CEL within the first 25 min of driving. It has a nice deep tone to it, mid RPM it has a slight fart can sound, you won't be mistaken for a civic but it's there.. It has a good scream when up around the limiter. I'll post some videos and pics in a couple days. Overall I am happy with the purchase. I put a magnet to it and it didn't stick so I'm guessing its actually SS and not chromed metal. It was a fairly easy install. One of the manifold bolts was a b*tch to get off. Got new bolts and gasket to connect it to manifold and made sure to put anti sieze so I wouldn't have that same problem. One thing that helped me out a lot when installing the bolts to the manifold I compressed the springs and put zipties on them to keep them compressed, and cut them off once I had the bolts in the threads. Also ground down the retainer on the bolts just a little, if you get one you'll know what I'm talking about.
My final plan for it is to cut the muffler off and put a 100 cell catalytic converter where it was with a 7 inch resonated tip. That will hopefully be done in a few weeks when I go visit my parents and have access to a welder. I'll post up some pics and vids of that as well when I get it done.

[Rigaud]

Originally Posted by 07dirtyaris

I just installed the OBX exhaust. I paid 175 including shipping from Sparktec. I couldn't pass it up for that price. It is a Cat delete full exhaust. It measured 2 1/4 OD and just under 2 1/8 ID. Hangers were all in the right spot. O2 bung was there, but will def need a non fouler since I set off they CEL within the first 25 min of driving. It has a nice deep tone to it, mid RPM it has a slight fart can sound, you won't be mistaken for a civic but it's there.. It has a good scream when up around the limiter. I'll post some videos and pics in a couple days. Overall I am happy with the purchase. I put a magnet to it and it didn't stick so I'm guessing its actually SS and not chromed metal. It was a fairly easy install. One of the manifold bolts was a b*tch to get off. Got new bolts and gasket to connect it to manifold and made sure to put anti sieze so I wouldn't have that same problem. One thing that helped me out a lot when installing the bolts to the manifold I compressed the springs and put zipties on them to keep them compressed, and cut them off once I had the bolts in the threads. Also ground down the retainer on the bolts just a little, if you get one you'll know what I'm talking about.
My final plan for it is to cut the muffler off and put a 100 cell catalytic converter where it was with a 7 inch resonated tip. That will hopefully be done in a few weeks when I go visit my parents and have access to a welder. I'll post up some pics and vids of that as well when I get it done.

I had no choice but to instal a cat, driven on the street and don't feel like getting towed plus a fine. I used a freeflow cat from Magnaflow and also used a 6" dia. muffler custom cut shorter as a resonator. Second year with this system and all is A1.