Tein Street Basis Coilover Install - 2007 Yaris Sedan NCP93 Stock

[sheekeebut]

Thanks! For once, somebody who doesn't berate me for not going slammed! It's like peer pressure, I tell you.


And you're right about the adjustability. It's my nature to tweak things, so this worked out well. I'd like to keep adjustments to a minimum though, because alignments aren't cheap.

I take it you're all too familiar with winters. Are you from the GTA?


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[yariseggvvti]

Originally Posted by sheekeebut

Thanks! For once, somebody who doesn't berate me for not going slammed! It's like peer pressure, I tell you.


And you're right about the adjustability. It's my nature to tweak things, so this worked out well. I'd like to keep adjustments to a minimum though, because alignments aren't cheap.

I take it you're all too familiar with winters. Are you from the GTA?


Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

I didnt do any alignement at all and I had install adjustable front sway link too. I dont see or feel any problem to aliigment. I think those tech are b.s about aligments. it costs 150 each time.

[sheekeebut]

Originally Posted by yariseggvvti

I didnt do any alignement at all and I had install adjustable front sway link too. I dont see or feel any problem to aliigment. I think those tech are b.s about aligments. it costs 150 each time.

Well it's true that after install and lowering, it neither pulls to one side nor tilts the wheel, which I guess is a good sign. And I can't tell for sure, but the Yaris seems more confident holding the front end at turns, at the same time feeling like the steering wheel is a bit more compliant, though sluggish, if you get what I mean. I'm pretty sure that the front camber and toe could be adjusted a bit to reflect the drop, if only to assign some quantifiable before/after parameters and be absolutely sure that there's nothing uneven going on.

And after reading Tamago's writeup

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14026

I'd be interested in adding a touch more toe-in and negative camber over stock, if they're not at that spot already. And if I feel a little adventurous, I'll try that flat washer shimming on the bolts between rear hubs and axles to get my rear toe and camber set. Those, after all, can be reset to "defaults" without needing the shop's rack, right?

Sure, it's only 1 1/2" (38 mm) of lowering, but I only intend to make up to 1/2" (13 mm) of adjustment up or down anyway. Assuming this logic works, if the alignment is set to my "midway" height -- the parameters of which you can bet will be recorded for future reference -- there should be no real need for realignment afterwards, as long as I stay within that +/- 1/2" of adjustment. Not like I'll miss anything far below or above that.

And the place I'm having it done at will let me dictate some last minute adjustments of my own while the thing's up on their lift. $102 gets all that done, and for quite some time afterwards I doubt I'll need it redone.

[sheekeebut]

And thanks to microimage resources

http://microimageonline.com/forums/s...TECH-TSB-FILES
More specifically http://www.microimageonline.com/down...Suspension.pdf starting at page SP-59 (pdf file page 61)

I can visualise the axles' mounting plates and bolt patterns without even having to jack my car up.

[vaironl]

Originally Posted by sheekeebut

And thanks to microimage resources

http://microimageonline.com/forums/s...TECH-TSB-FILES
More specifically http://www.microimageonline.com/down...Suspension.pdf starting at page SP-59 (pdf file page 61)

I can visualise the axles' mounting plates and bolt patterns without even having to jack my car up.

Thanks a lot for diggin this up, I totally forgot about the MI PDF section I'm gonna have to do more research on the alignment stuff... I don't know if it's to the car, tires, or what the heck. I have to change my two front tires soon as they are rotting.