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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Ok, just checked and there's no O2 wire on your OBD port, it's only available on Conector C Pin 16 on the ECU. It is a white wire. Pin 13 is also white, but is the knock sensor.
The reading should oscillate from .050V - .900V So in other words, within 1V. It should swing back and forth if you hold the revs at about 2000. If it's not going all the way up and all the way down, the sensor is shot. Mine was reading 0.100-0.550V and no code we set but my millage was getting bad and I had a rougher idle. My fuel trims where shooting up to +23% at idle. Changed the sensor and started getting 100km more per tank and the idle smoothed out a bit. edit: for reference, low voltage is a lean reading and high voltage is a rich reading on an O2 sensor. If the sensor is only showing the ECU half way up the scale it'll think its too lean and start increasing the fuel trims. It can get to the point that it's so rich it's flooding the engine and fouling up the cat. Another indicator can be a rotten egg smell from the exhaust. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Quote:
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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#3 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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One shouldn't be any more susceptible to wear than the other. With that said, the primary has a lot more influence on the AFR than the Sub, so it can be noticed easier than a failing Sub sensor. The Sub's main job is to monitor the Cat's efficiency.
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