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#1 |
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Do you have your own shop, or have a family member with a shop where you do all this work? You've mentioned doing your build on a budget, but I've seen you go through parts like people go through underwear lol. You've talked about piston work and I'm no mechanic, but messing with internals can't be cheap, eh?
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Toyota Yaris Sedan (Vios) Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Thailand
Posts: 291
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Quote:
i buy 2nd hand parts shipped from japan or buy local brands because custom made are slightly cheaper.. Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk
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Brain: ATD E85 Timing Advance ECU Engine: 1JZ Injectors, Header, Center Pipe, K&N Drop In, E85 Injector Converter Suspension: Hankook Tires, Performance OEM replacement Shocks & Springs F: 1.5 B: 1.4, Mu Spec brake pads, Front tower & Rear sway bars, Rays nut & lock Electric: Volt Stablizer & Multi gauge obd2 Cosmetic: Toyota red emblem
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#3 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Red Toyota Yaris Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MN
Posts: 76
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As I said in my previous post, you won't be making much power with an intake. It is more of a noise thing than anything else. I understand that you have mods to your car, but I find it hard to believe that you are actually pushing more air in/out of your engine. What you are most likely doing with your current intake/exhaust mods are freeing up air flow by reducing back pressure in your exhaust system and maybe reducing any "bottlenecks" in the intake but even that doesn't mean much.
The most air that you can suck into the engine N/A is just what the engine is willing to take in the amount of time it can when the valves are open. Mathematically the theoretical amount of efficiency you can get is 100% which could theoretically be obtained by a stroker kit and free flowing intake/exhaust tuned to a desired RPM. Realistically without F/I you will never break the 100% volumetric efficiency or even come close. |
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#4 | |
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Pumpman
Drives: 2019 Kia Soul EV Base Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 434
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You are correct in saying that the theoretical amount of air that can be drawn in the engine is 100%. But, that's only THEORETICAL! In reality it's probably more along the lines of 80%-85%, but that's besides the point. On a naturally aspirated engine, with a well designed induction system, you can definitly break that 100% mark without forced induction, using a process called pressure wave tuning. Definitly look it up if you don't believe me. I'm not making this up.
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"I would rather loose by a mile in a car I built myself, then win by an inch in a car that was built for me." - Moog |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Red Toyota Yaris Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MN
Posts: 76
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You must also skipped over the part where I said "tuning for a certain RPM" even with pressure wave tuning it is only tuned for a specific RPM that is why there are different length headers which move the powerband up or down depending on the design. The engine itself can't achieve 100% VE at all RPMs, it can be considered a narrow powerband when compared to a FI engine where a compressor is used to force air in and increase VE of the cylinders. |
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