Sound-speaker guru needed!

[David C]

I added a small 8" powered sub in my HB and it's more than enough to really give a good bass due to the small volume of the car. I got one of the least expensive under seat powered subwoofer that still offer decent quality and features, the SSL LoPro 8, which can be had for under $100USD online (Amazon can have pretty good deals on these types of sub). I did wire it trough my low level pre-amp sub output of my head unit (Kenwood Excelon 599), but you can also wire it trough the stock speakers high level wires. Most of the under seat powered subs have this feature.

If you already have door speakers to take care of the mid range and tweeter for the high, the only way to get clear bass is a sub. Since you'll be able to adjust gain, hi/lo frequency filter, bass boost, etc on the sub itself, you don't need to touch your stock head unit for now.

I have a pair of Rockford Fostgate Punch PTS-1 tweeter in the front, the small sub behind my seat, my head unit with decent signal output quality and stock speakers (from 2007), and the sound is astounding (and that's also what audio professionals who took place in the driver seat agreed on). Next step would be to look into sound proofing of the doors, just like you're considering, but you can't improve a lack of bass with sound proofing. It will help cancel the low frequency from road noise that mess up the bass response though (however you don't have any decent bass to start with).

I've attached pictures of my sub to help you visualize the setup.






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[miiser]

Originally Posted by David C

I added a small 8" powered sub in my HB and it's more than enough to really give a good bass due to the small volume of the car. I got one of the least expensive under seat powered subwoofer that still offer decent quality and features, the SSL LoPro 8, which can be had for under $100USD online (Amazon can have pretty good deals on these types of sub). I did wire it trough my low level pre-amp sub output of my head unit (Kenwood Excelon 599), but you can also wire it trough the stock speakers high level wires. Most of the under seat powered subs have this feature.

If you already have door speakers to take care of the mid range and tweeter for the high, the only way to get clear bass is a sub. Since you'll be able to adjust gain, hi/lo frequency filter, bass boost, etc on the sub itself, you don't need to touch your stock head unit for now.

I have a pair of Rockford Fostgate Punch PTS-1 tweeter in the front, the small sub behind my seat, my head unit with decent signal output quality and stock speakers (from 2007), and the sound is astounding (and that's also what audio professionals who took place in the driver seat agreed on). Next step would be to look into sound proofing of the doors, just like you're considering, but you can't improve a lack of bass with sound proofing. It will help cancel the low frequency from road noise that mess up the bass response though (however you don't have any decent bass to start with).

I've attached pictures of my sub to help you visualize the setup.






Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

Hey,
First of all thanks for your reply.

So if I got this clear, you recommend me a third option to buy a sub.
But lew in mind that I don't have an amp. Can I wire him in the same wires with the ones from a door? I didn't know that. But the result might be not so good as if I had an amp.
Also, can my headunit handle a sub?
And what about a component system? I mean sure I won't get the same bass as a sub but I think it's easier and cheaper.

Also about the soundproof . I did some research and I found good reviews about noico sheets on amazon. They are a lot cheaper than dynamat and with 35$ you can soundproof 4 doors or 2 doors for good.


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[jcboy]

Originally Posted by miiser

Hey,
First of all thanks for your reply.

So if I got this clear, you recommend me a third option to buy a sub.
But lew in mind that I don't have an amp. Can I wire him in the same wires with the ones from a door? I didn't know that. But the result might be not so good as if I had an amp.
Also, can my headunit handle a sub?
And what about a component system? I mean sure I won't get the same bass as a sub but I think it's easier and cheaper.

Also about the soundproof . I did some research and I found good reviews about noico sheets on amazon. They are a lot cheaper than dynamat and with 35$ you can soundproof 4 doors or 2 doors for good.


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But lew in mind that I don't have an amp...Also, can my headunit handle a sub?

If your HU doesnt have a sub out (RCA out) you can use a speaker-level input amp then a small sub. Otherwise you can use the RCA outs to power an active/underseat subwoofer that have a builtin amp (say, a Pioneer ts-wx210a or wx120a or what David C has)

And what about a component system? I mean sure I won't get the same bass as a sub but I think it's easier and cheaper.

Components (in car audio, at least AFAIK) means the midrange speaker is separate from the tweeters, such as yours. If your talking about a component bazooka sub with mids and tweeters and amp builtin, then it should work if it has inputs that your stereo output has (RCA or speaker-level). Just disable the tweeters and mids (activate Lowpass filter switch) so you dont have too much mid to high freq sound.


My 2cents, take it one at a time, say at least 1week apart for each step. Here you go:

1. Replace the fronts with proper components like you planned, decent name aftermarket component tweeters will likely be better than factory. So replace the factory tweeters with your components, or just buy midrange speakers. Proceed to 2 or jump to 3 as you wish.
2. Put the coaxials to the back and check for too much highs. If so, wire them as rear speakers rather than in parallel to (and definitely not in series with) the fronts so you can set fader if the sound is too strong from the rear.
3. Get an amp and sub (or a sub with built in amp) to fill the bass/low freq sound.
4. Soundproof to improve bass.

Good luck

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