Blank rubber grommet

[yaris2011-07]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Sounds like you're doing the right thing; painting the rusty holes etc. I would be careful what you use for a rust proofing product that contacts the rubber grommets. I've seen them swell a lot and then they lose their sealing ability when a oil-based product is used. I believe Fluid Film will not swell rubber but don't quote me on that. I think most rust on floor pans comes from the inside out. Carpet/underlay is like a large slow-drying sponge. That's why I'm such a big fan of floor liners - keeps the water from getting there in the first place.

I used white lithium grease on the grommets, not sure if this will affect the performance of these grommets.

I also have used rubber floor mats inside the car since it was new, so I don't think any water/salt would be coming from shoes/boots. I hope there isn't any other source of water inside.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by yaris2011-07

I used white lithium grease on the grommets, not sure if this will affect the performance of these grommets.

I also have used rubber floor mats inside the car since it was new, so I don't think any water/salt would be coming from shoes/boots. I hope there isn't any other source of water inside.

I'm sure you'll be fine with the lithium grease. Rubber floor mats are great but sometimes stuff can spill over the edges. Once any water gets into the carpet underlay, it can be a really long time before it evaporates. It can actually be worse with rubber mats or floorliners as that further slows the drying process. Good on you for making the move to preserve your car. Few people are willing to do this.

On a similar note, today I drilled my rocker panels and also drilled holes just below the door latch on the rear doors of my 08. I dumped about a liter of ATF in each rocker panel and sprayed rust check in the rear holes to soak the rear panel, wheelhouse and dogles areas, then plugged them with the 1/2" body plugs. The atf dripped out all along the rocker, so it should be well protected against this winter's salt attack.

EDIT: So that the environmentalists among us don't get upset, I collect all drips into containers and recycle it.

[yaris2011-07]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

I'm sure you'll be fine with the lithium grease. Rubber floor mats are great but sometimes stuff can spill over the edges. Once any water gets into the carpet underlay, it can be a really long time before it evaporates. It can actually be worse with rubber mats or floorliners as that further slows the drying process. Good on you for making the move to preserve your car. Few people are willing to do this.

On a similar note, today I drilled my rocker panels and also drilled holes just below the door latch on the rear doors of my 08. I dumped about a liter of ATF in each rocker panel and sprayed rust check in the rear holes to soak the rear panel, wheelhouse and dogles areas, then plugged them with the 1/2" body plugs. The atf dripped out all along the rocker, so it should be well protected against this winter's salt attack.

Nice job! I should also do that at some point. When I first bought the car I installed the Canadian Tire CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System. Not sure if it is doing anything.

So far no rust on the body, but surface rust has started on the underbody.

Did you inspect the lower control arm bolt on your car? I did that recently, and needed to replace both of those bolts. The passenger side bolt came out in one piece, but on the drivers side the head broke off. It wasn't a fun job replacing that bolt.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by yaris2011-07

Nice job! I should also do that at some point. When I first bought the car I installed the Canadian Tire CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System. Not sure if it is doing anything.

So far no rust on the body, but surface rust has started on the underbody.

Did you inspect the lower control arm bolt on your car? I did that recently, and needed to replace both of those bolts. The passenger side bolt came out in one piece, but on the drivers side the head broke off. It wasn't a fun job replacing that bolt.

Thanks! I think the jury is out on how well electronic rust protection works. My former principal, who is a long time shade tree mechanic, swears by them. He gets them installed on all new vehicles. A few years back I convinced him of the merits of using an oil-based rust proofing compound in interior panels, rockers etc, etc and he adopted it as an annual maintenance item. He uses it in conjunction with the electronic module. His cars are all relatively new - none more than 5 - 6 years, so it's hard to tell which if any approaches stopped the rust. There wouldn't likely be any rust anyway as they are so new. I know that you will find a lot of debate regarding these electronic systems. Apparently they work very well on bridges and boats where a complete circuit is present. They theory is sound apparently, just much debate about how well they work in an automotive application.

I have not closely checked the control arm bolts but I did coat them in Rust Check Coat and Protect. Everythng seemed fine but I'll pop a wrench on them and check. Thanks for the heads-up!

[yaris2011-07]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Thanks! I think the jury is out on how well electronic rust protection works. My former principal, who is a long time shade tree mechanic, swears by them. He gets them installed on all new vehicles. A few years back I convinced him of the merits of using an oil-based rust proofing compound in interior panels, rockers etc, etc and he adopted it as an annual maintenance item. He uses it in conjunction with the electronic module. His cars are all relatively new - none more than 5 - 6 years, so it's hard to tell which if any approaches stopped the rust. There wouldn't likely be any rust anyway as they are so new. I know that you will find a lot of debate regarding these electronic systems. Apparently they work very well on bridges and boats where a complete circuit is present. They theory is sound apparently, just much debate about how well they work in an automotive application.

I have not closely checked the control arm bolts but I did coat them in Rust Check Coat and Protect. Everythng seemed fine but I'll pop a wrench on them and check. Thanks for the heads-up!

If you've never removed the control arm bolts before, and if they require alot of torque to remove, I would recommend heating up the bolt head for about 10 minutes with a propane torch before putting alot of torque on those bolts.

I broke a 3/8" ratchet on the driver's side bolt. Then I used a 1/2" ratchet and that broke the bolt head off. I think if I would have torched the bolt head first it may have come off without breaking the bolt head.

Of course heating up bolt head may destroy your rubber bushing...so you need to decide if this approach is best for you.

Once I broke the bolt head off I needed to drop the subframe to get at that bolt. In the process, I ended up destroying the control arm bushing, and ended up replacing the control arm.

I coated the new bolts with lithium grease so I hope they will last another ten years!

Good luck!